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It does not appear
to be a traditional Hawaiian surboard term and critically, it is not included
in the Appendix of Hawaiian Surfing Terms of Dr. Ben Finney's groundbreaking
The
Ancient Sport of Surfing (1966, pages 94-96 in the 1996 edition).
Nor is paipo
mentioned in the body of the text, with the term bodyboard preferred.
In addition,
there is no entry for the word in:
Pukui, Mary Kawena
and Elbert, Samuel H.: Hawaiian
Dictionary: Hawaiian-English, English-Hawaiian.
Revised and Enlarged
Edition.
University of Hawaii
Press, Honolulu, 1986.
The earliest reference
in a surfing book may be John Kelly's excellent Surf
and Sea (1965).
He glossary entry
for paipo, includes a possible derivation for the term and
indicates it "is from popular usage":
There is no entry
for bellyboard.
"paipo:
A small surfboard from approximately one to three feet long held in front
with the hands or beneath the chest; a belly board.
Some riders can
stand on paipo boards.
The term is from
popular usage but may stem from pae, to ride a wave to shore, and
pu,
the sea at midtide (Hawaiian)."
Kelly: Surf
and Sea (1965) page 290.
Kelly's claim that "Some riders can stand on paipo boards" is confrirmed by a photograph by Val Valentine, facing page 192.
Puki's Hawaiian
Dictionary (1986) confirms Kelly's interpretation of pae and
pu.:
"pae.
2. vi. To land,
disembark, come ashore; to mount or catch a wave, as of a surf rider; washed
or drifted ashore.
... Pae i
ka nalu, to ride a wave into the shore." (page
298).
" pu.
11. ...
Kai
pu, a sea without animation, sea at midtide."
Note also that the
entry for pu has an alternate derivation, that may be applicable
to the dished nose design:
"pu.
6. n. canoe end-piece,
both for and aft." (page 344).
Similarly, but far less likely, the term "pa ipu" (the a has an overmark) meaning "Calabash, wooden dish in general cooking utensil, bowl" [Puki: Hawaiian Dictionary (1986) page 303], also could have been adpted to describe the dished nose design.
Kelly makes special mention of the wide-tailed dished nose design, however he identifies it as a "Skim or skitter board".
| This
is not to be confused with the 1960s Skimboard, a flat plywood,
often circular, board that is not (normally) a wave riding craft.
The rider would carry the board and run at full speed before lauching the it in the shallows and jumping onboard for a fast but brief ride. See #237, image right. |
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"A fast finless belly or paipo board about board 42 inches long and 30 inches wide and around three-eighths of an inch thick with a flat bottom-one of the fastest wave-riding devices."
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Approximate dimensions: length 42", width 30'" thickness 3/8", bow scoop 3". Kelly: Surf
and Sea (1965)
|
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in standing crouch on the zippy skim or belly board at Kuhio pier, Waikiki. Photo by Val Valentine." Kelly: Surf
and Sea (1965),
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| At this point (June
2009), one early commercial use of the term is a decal for a prone timber
board, possibly produced between 1935 and 1955.
The decal reads: Hawaiian PAI PO BOARD Mgf. By FROISETH. The image was listed at stanleys surfcrazy logo library and is reproduced with permission, right. |
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John Clark, whom
you probably know of, has written several books on Hawaii and is
working on a book on Hawaiian surf traditions.
He advised me, regarding
this decal:
"Wally made his first
Hawaiian Pai Po Board in December 1955, but he didn't like the way it rode.
He re-designed it
early in 1956 and applied for a patent on it on May 9, 1956.
The decal was used
only on his paipo boards, not on his surfboards."
I believe John has
a copy of this patent and is in contact with Wally.
He also has done
some interesting research into the origins of the term paipo.
Froiseth was probably
Wally Froiseth, born in Los Angles in 1919 and who moved to Honolulu in
1925.
He began surfing
at age eight and was active as a surfer, contest diector and judge until
the1970s- a forty year surfing career.
The brief biographical
notes (see Appendix C, below) are mainly based
on Wally Froiseth's entry in Matt Warshaw's essential Surfing Encyclopedia
and, needless to say, there is no mention of the decal or board under discussion.
With such an extensive
resume and out specific contemporary documentation or first person
annecdotes, it is impossible to suggest a date for the Froiseth decal.
It could easily
be anywhere between 1937 and 1970.
At a guess 1956
(???).
Note that John Kelly
(quoted above) and Wally Froiseth were close surfing compatriots.
In 1936-1937, Froiseth,
Kelly and Fran Heath developed the tapered-tailed Hot Curl design,
setting the precedent for the templates of Gun or Speed boards
for the next 50 years.
See Source Documents
George
Obelian : Give
It the Axe- Early Development of the Modern Gun
Ancients - Hot
Curls - Simmons - Downing., from...
Surfer Magazine
Vol
30 No. 10 1989, pages 104 - 105.
In the early 1960s, Val Valentine was observed building the dished-nose Paipo boards in Hawaii:
" I watched Val
Valentine as he made a Paipo for me in Hawaii, and could see that there
would be a better
way of
doing it.
He used a moulding
surface to shape the bottom of the board.
This was formed
in earth outside his house, and lined with cement mortar.
He laid
vaneers (sic) of timber in this with glue between, then pressed
the whole thing with sandbags on top.
When the glue
had set, he trimmed and finished the board.
Concave
tails to boards were all the rage that season, and Val was spending much
of his time trying to build a concave Paipo that would work.
I could
see that this was not working out at all, and returned to Australia with
one of his regular (non concave) Paipo boards."
Jamie Farfor returned to Australia and began manufcturing his own model:
"... I built
a press that had a concrete base mould at table height, and was loaded
with a hydraulic powered airbag.
This makeshift
thing ran off mains water pressure and put over 20 ton pressure on the
boards while the
glue set.
Looking
back on it, I was lucky that the thing never exploded.
I started
using timber vaneer, but was unable to get suitable quality of material.
I then
tried using layers of eighth inch thick hoop pine plywood, and found that
with the extreme pressure
that I
could form the two way curve (shallow dome) at the nose of the board.
By putting
plastic sheet between, I was able to form 3 boards in the press at a time.
With the stresses in the plywood, the curvature at the nose was less than with the timber vaneer."
|
Paipo board by Jamie Farfor. Deck and bottom. 3ft 5'' x 29 1/2". Varnished plywood with branded decal and fabric laminated bottom. Right:
Dimensions and photographs
|
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The short length and stability allowed critical takeoffs and ride deep
in the curl.
For this reson,
they were particually suited to steep fast breaking waves such as Sandy
Beach on Ohau and the Wedge in California.
Importantly, before
the adoption of the legrope circa 1974, prone or knee boarders, by virtue
of their proximity to the board, have more control during wipe outs, enabling
them to ride deeper in the wave with confidence.
Thus, for a period,
they dominated at rock-strewn breaks were wipeouts were potentially board
destroying, for example Little Avalon, Sydney.
In the later 1960s in California, Paipo was used by several companies
specializing in various prone and kneeboard designs, the advertisements
often featuring easy transportation with the rider on a push or motor bike.
Several Californian companies located themselves at Newport Beach,
home of the famous Newport Wedge, such as Newport Paipo Boards (Box
5685, Santa Monica. Ca., 90405) which began around 1967 and by the mid-seventies
had produced several models such as the Stub Vector, the Wedge Vector,
the Concave Vector, the Shoe and the Knee Vector.
The boards often featured a hollowed deck, visually similar to the
groundbreaking designs by George Greenough, and sometimes handgrips.
See Appendix D.
Also at Newport was El Paipo Kneeboards (Costa Mesa, California) and Hawaiian Paipo Boards. From Huntington Beach came the House of Paipo and Jack's Surfboards marketed Jack's Huntington Paipo.
Newport Paipo Boards Newport Beach |
El Paipo Newport Beach. |
Hawaiian Paipo Boards Newport Beach |
House of Paipo Huntington Beach |
Jack's Huntington Paipo Huntington Beach |
The skim board is very simple in design having a perfectly flat planing surface with sharp breakaway trailing edges. It has no skeg. The size of the skim board is important in relation to the weight of the rider that its lift surface must support. Average dimensions are approximately 3 1/2 to 4 feet in length. The aft end is usually less than 3 feet wide, and it tapers somewhat to a narrower front end which is cambered to prevent digging. Most of them are made of 3/8 inch plywood, surfaced with the usual fiber-glass and resin. The curved front edge may have an elevated rim for gripping.
The riding technique
consist of railing the extended aft side-edge of the skim board into the
wall for the beginning of the fast slide. This enables ascent to a high
position for the drop. On the drop, the board'is levelled with the water
and tucked beneath the rider's chest, his head and shoulders extending
over the front end and legs over the back end but not touching the water.
The arm on the side of the slide (left arm on a left slide) extends forward
to get it out of the way of any water coming over the side. The board then
assumes a highly efficient planing position and achieves great speed.
On large waves,
say twelve to fifteen feet or more, the skim board riders skid down the
slopes hitting only the high spots, board and rider being airborne for
a good part of the time. Without a skeg and drag produced by side pressure
thereon, the skim board follows more closely the path of its own inertial
flight and thus achieves the highest speed thus far of any wave-riding
device."
APPENDIX
C.
Wally Froiseth
In 1936-1937, Froiseth
with John Kelly and Fran Heath, developed the tapered-tailed Hot Curl
design, setting the precedent for the templates of Gun or Speed
boards for the next 50 years.
See Source Documents
George
Obelian : Give
It the Axe- Early Development of the Modern Gun
Ancients - Hot
Curls - Simmons - Downing., from...
Surfer Magazine
Vol
30 No. 10 1989, pages 104 - 105.
The ultimate testing
ground for the Hot Curls was Makhaka Beach, although the crew did make
some attempts at riding the powerful breaks of the North Shore.
Froiseth and his
step-son, George Downing, were the first to ride Lankiakea (1946) and Maui's
Honolula Bay (1947), before testing the Hot Curl's in Southern California
during 1948 .
He won the prestigious
Makaha contest in 1959 (aged 39) and next year became the contest director
until it ceased in 1971.
He was a respected
and valued judge at wide range of surfing contests.
"...Froiseth
built, sailed, and paddled all manner of canoes and catamarans."
Newport Paipo was conceived nearly a decade ago (circa 1967)
to
explore new avenues of wave involvement.
The testing began at the Wedge.
It had the energy and power needed to test our bellyboard and Paipo
Board
theories.
This experrmentation fed to the first commercially built Paipo and
bellyboards in the surfing industry in the late 60's.
The Stub Vector, the Wedge Vector and the Concave Vector were air
vehicles built and ridden during this trme.
We began working with kneeboards -in the late 60'5.
Our experimenting resulted in a radIcal two-in-one board called
the Shoe.
It was designed to be ridden like a kneeboard or a surfboard, depending
upon your wave position.
Our past ideas have evolved into a classic kneeboard design called
the Knee Vector.
It's built especially for kneeboarding by people who have been involved
in finding new approaches to wave involvement for ten years.
The Knee Vector is the culmination of those years of experience.
All Newport Paipo Boards have countersunk leash attachments, use
the Single box FU fin system, are constructed of Clark Foam, and are available
up to 5' 6 " in length.
(Flexible nylon rope handles are optional)
Dealers direct your inquires to:
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| home | catalogue | history | references | appendix |
1769
Joseph Banks and
James Cook observe body and prone board surfing on the west coast of Tahiti.
1779
James King and David
Samwell report prone board surfing by both genders in the Hawaiian Islands.
1788
William Bligh and
James Morrison report prone surfing in Tahiti in extreme swell conditions.
Morrison also provides
the first account of standup surfing and identifies Iddeah, the wife of
a local chief, as the most skilled.
1821
Captain Raine observes
descendants of Bounty mutineers riding prone boards with “a ridge like
a keel” on the bottom at Pitcairn Island.
1840, and following
Illustrations of
Hawaiian surfing show a variety of riding positions including prone, sitting,
kneeling, drop-knee and standing.
Circa 1860
Percy Smith notes
the use of prone boards by New Zealand’s Maoris.
1860 (?)
Prone boards first
used in England.
1907
Small hand boards
in use at Manly Beach, Australia.
1915
After visiting Hawaii,
Jackson and Goldie ride prone boards at Point Lonsdale, Victoria, and introduce
local girl Grace Smith-Wooton to the art.
1920s
Production prone
boards built by Risby Bros. in Tasmania.
1930s
Square nosed timber
boards with parallel rails, later known as Lamaroos (or Looma-Roo), used
in Victoria.
The design is also
common in New Zealand, South Africa and UK.
1932
Dr. Ernest introduces
his inflated rubber mat, the Surfoplane, in Australia.
1934
Ronald Funnell extols
the virtues and dangers of prone surf-riding on narrow solid wood boards
to English readers in The Art of Surf-riding.
1934, July
Plans for a solid
wood bellyboard published in Popular Mechanics magazine.
1935, August
Plans for a laminated
redwood-pine prone board printed in Popular Science magazine.
1940-1945
Owen Churchill's
molded rubber swim-fin design adopted by the US Navy and issued to their
Underwater Demolition Teams in the early 1940s.
1946?
Vernont Bartlet’s
You and Your Surfboard, an introduction to prone board surfing, published
in Great Britain.
1953
Curved prone boards
in ash or chestnut and the Solarbo, an “extra buoyant flat” balsa board,
available in Newquay, England.
1955, December
Wally Froiseth builds
his first Hawaiian Pai Po Board, re-designed in early 1956 and followed
by a patent application on May 9, 1956.
1958
In Sydney, Leigh
Tingle has a twin fin fibreglassed bellyboard built from balsa off-cuts.
1959
George Greenough
builds his first balsa wood kneeboard.
Originally with
a conventional D fin, the following year he replaces it with his first
flexible high-aspect ratio fin.
1960
Bellyboards and
kneeboards manufactured in foam and fibreglass.
early 1960s
Jamie Farfor observes
Val Valentine building the dished-nose Paipo boards with a wide-tailed
plectrum-like template in Hawaii.
Farfor purchases
one of Valentine’s boards and, on returning to Australia, manufactures
his own model.
1962
George Greenough
builds his first balsa wood kneeboard with spooned deck, initially with
twin fins.
1964 (1965?)
Greenough builds
his first flexible Spoon and makes his first visit to Australia.
1965
John Kelly details
the Skim board, a plectrum-shaped plywood finless board accredited to John
Waidelich and Jim
Growney.
1965
Val Valentine commercially
produces Paipo Nui boards.
1966
“Still others like
a short bellyboard (sic) and a long ride like George Greenough at Santa
Barbara, California” – Bruce Brown in the introduction to his The Endless
Summer.
1966
Converse (USA) release
their rubberised canvas Hodgman model surfmat.
1967
San Diego’s Steve
Lis builds his first split-tail twin fin Fish kneeboard.
1967
The Coolite, a molded
polystyrene foam board, and the hollow molded plastic Zippyboard introduced
in Australia.
1967
Barracuda Bellyboards
- a twin fin plywood board designed by Sydney’s Leigh Tingle.
1969
“Far-Out flexible
Surfboard - the wave of the future?” article on Greenough’s Spoon printed
in Popular Science magazine.
1969
Peter Crawford shapes
his first Slab (the name is credited to Midget Farrelly), a wide bodied
kneeboard at Wallace Surfboards as an alternative to the low floatation
Greenough Spoon.
1970
George Greenough
releases The Innermost Limits of Pure Fun.
1970
Shane Surfboards
(Australia) produce a foam kneeboard with a Greenough influenced spooned
deck, known as The Shoe.
1971
George Greenough
releases his short film on mat surfing, Rubber Duck Riders.
1972
Tom Morey’s Boogie
Board released, originally offered as a buyer assembled mail order product.
1972
Bahne screw and
pin fin box introduced and becomes a standard feature on most kneeboards.
1974
Adoption of the
legrope (or surf-leash) sees standup surfers begin to appear at extreme
reef breaks, previously considered the domain of belly and knee boarders.
1975
The Bellybooger,
a molded plastic twin fin bellyboard with spooned deck, marketed in Australia.
1977
'Bout a Spoonful
article by Bob McTavish, eight easy steps to building a Greenough Spoon,
printed in Surfing World magazine.
1987
Boogie rider Mike
Stewart profiled in Surfer magazine.
1995
FCS fin plugs
1998
Endangered Species,
an article on kneeboarding, published in the Surfer’s Journal.