surfresearch.com.au    references : books w

2007 Wade, Alex:  Surfing Nation In Search of the fast Lefts and Hollow Rights of Britain and Ireland. Simom and Shuster, UK ltd Africa House, 64-78 Kingsway, London WC2B 6AH, 2007. Pocket Books, 2008. Soft cover, 340 pages, black and white photographs, Acknowledgements, Glossary. Review Professionally written overview of the surfers and surfing locations of England, Wales, Scotland and Ireland circa 2006. With some historical background (occassionally less than accurate, note the James Cook references) and literary and cinematic insights, Wade generally emphasises the rugged nature and quality of both the surfers and locations, which tends be be slightly repitious by the book's conclusion. Although not intended as a surf guide, a lack of maps makes the author's extensive travels somewhat confusing for the international reader. Chapter 12, on famous tidal bore on the Severn River, is a interesting contrast with storm generated ocean waves.

1968  Wagenvoord, James and Bailey, Lyn:  How To Surf Collins Books, New York. 1968 Hard cover, 96 pages, 79 b/w photographs or sequences, 3 b/w illustrations, glossary, demonstrations by Mike Doyle, afterword by J.J. Moon.  Review Very basic instructional book concentrating on basic manoeuvres circa 1968 USA.  The boards in this book appear to confirm Australian design dominance at this time (compare Carter, Jeff 1968). Interesting to note style influence of Mike Doyle on Nat Young  - pages 56, 64 and 68.  Who is J.J. Moon?  In August 2009, Paul Ambler noted by email: "J.J Moon is my dad.  His real name is John Ambler and he use to surf in the 60's & 70's with his brother Kevin Ambler.  There used to be a cartoon in a surfing mag titled "Life Of J.J Moon" or something.  He later went on to skate for Golden Breed in Australia and pretty much does nothing now haha." Many thanks to Paul.

2003 Walding, Murray : Blue Heaven : The Story of Australian Surfing Hardie Grant Books 12 Claremont Street South Yarra, Victoria 3141, Australia, 2003. Hard cover, 194 pages, extensive colour, duotone and b/white photographs, Bibliography, Index. Review

2008 Walding, Murray : Surf-o-rama - Treasures of Australian Surfing. The Miegunyah Press Melbourne University Publishing Limited 187 Grattan Street Carlton, Victoria 3053, Australia, 2008. Soft cover, 240 pages, extensive colour, duotone and black and white photographs, Picture Credits, Bibliography, Index. Review A richly illustrated catalogue of Australian surfing associated collectables with extensive item notes and expostition. Arranged by chapter: surfboards, skateboards, magazines, recordings and posters.

1991  Lee Wardlaw : Cowabunga! - The Complete Book of Surfing. Avon Books A division of the Hearst Corporation 105 Madison Ave. New York, NY 10016. 1991 Soft cover, 165 pages, 8 colour plates, 2 black-and-white illustrations, 23 black-and-white photographs, Surfing Organisations, Glossary, Bibliography. Review Well balanced overview of surfing that covers all major areas of interest, circa 1991.  With a strong American focus, the book is sometimes deficient in dealing with other countries, for example, "Bob McTavish ... pioneered the first tri-fin boards in the mid 1960's", page 127. There are several other minor spelling for factual errors.  Hotspots Chapter 15 (surfing locations) includes five US wave pools. Page 74 boldly, but correctly, nominates Kelly Slater as a future top professional for the 1990's.

Warner, P.F. (editor): The Boy's Own Book of of Outdoor Games and Pastimes. The Religious Tract Society, 4 Bouverie Street and 65 St. Pauls Churchyard E.C., 1913. Extract: H.S Abbott : Surfing in Australia, pages 178 to 180.

1988  Warren, Mark:  Atlas of Australian Surfing  Angus and Robertson Publishers Unit 4 Eden Park 31 Waterloo Road North Ryde NSW Australia 1988 Hard cover, 232 pages, 68 colour photographs?, 46 black and white maps?, Glossary, Index. Review Comprehensive guide to Australian surf breaks, in similar format to Jeff Carter (East Coast, 1968), Nat Young (East Coast, 1980/1983 and Surf/Sail  Australia, 1986), Chris Rennie (Australia, 1998) and Richard Loveridge (Victoria, 1987).  Break information (swell, tide, wind) is supplemented with occassional historical, cultural or personal observations.  Blue boards with dust jacket.

1994  Warren, Mark:  Atlas of Australian Surfing (Second Edition) Angus and Robertson Publishers Unit 4 Eden Park 31 Waterloo Road North Ryde NSW Australia. 1994 Hard cover, 232 pages, 68 colour photographs?, 46 black and white maps?, Glossary, Index. Review Comprehensive guide to Australian surf breaks, in similar format to Jeff Carter (East Coast, 1968), Nat Young (East Coast, 1980/1983 and Surf/Sail  Australia, 1986), Chris Rennie (Australia, 1998) and Richard Loveridge (Victoria, 1987).. Break information (swell, tide, wind) is supplemented with occassional historical, cultural or personal observations.  Basically same text/illustrations with some minor variation in format (pages 2 -3?), different cover in laminated boards.

1999  Warren, Mark:  Atlas of Australian Surfing - Traveller's Edition Haper Collins Publishers 25 Ryde Road Pymble Sydney NSW 2073 Australia. 1999 Reprint of 1989 edition Laminated soft cover, 272 pages, 68 colour photographs, 46 black and white maps + continent map on end papers, Glossary, Index. Review Comprehensive guide to Australian surf breaks, in similar format to Jeff Carter (East Coast, 1968), Nat Young (East Coast, 1980/1983 and Surf/Sail  Australia, 1986), Chris Rennie (Australia, 1998) and Richard Loveridge (Victoria, 1987). Break information (swell, tide, wind) is supplemented with occassional historical, cultural or personal observations. Despite being a 1999 edition, some details are incorrect -e.g. The Farm (page 126) is incorrectly shown on the map, appears to be confused with Mystics (page 127) and neither is private property, the area being declared as Killalea State Recreational Area in the early 1990's. This copy, courtesy of Shoalhaven City Library.

1997  Warshaw, Matt :  Surfriders – In Search of the Perfect Wave Tehabi Books, Inc.  Collins Publishers, 10 East 53rd Street, New York, NY 10022. 1997 Soft cover, 132 pages, 70 colour photographs or sequences, 31b/w photographs, World champions photo gallery 1964 – 1996, bibliography, photography credits.  Review Excellent publication beautifully presented with great (some rare) photographs.  Text has a tendency to become a bit dramatic.  Chapters “Morning at Freshwater” (the Duke) and “Revolution” (McTavish) are of particular interest.  Duke Kahanamoku at Freshwater : 24 December 1914.

1997  Warshaw, Matt: Above The Roar - Fifty Surfer Interviews Waterhouse 4350 Bain Avenue, Santa Cruz, CA 95062. 1997 Hardcover, pages, extensive colour and black and white photographs and illustrations, Photo and Art Credits, Sources and Acknowledgements. Review Not complete interviews, but rather short selections taken from Matt Warshaw's portfolio of previously published (full) interviews 1987 - 1997.  This tight editing often leaves the reader wishing for further information, or that some other topic had been selected.  The selection of accompanying photographs is excellent and they are beautifully reproduced.

2000  Warshaw, Matt :  Mavericks  – The Story of Big Wave Surfing Chronicle Books, Inc.  85 Second Street, San Francisco, California 94105. 2000 Hard cover, 209 pages, 36colour photographs, 19 b/w photographs, numerous magazine reproductions, film poster reproductions, map, Bibliography, Photograph credits, Index. Review As implied by the tittle,  an account of big wave surfing largley centralised on stories and photographs of Maverick's, California.  This is most prominant in the focus on the death of Hawaiian Mark Foo in 1994, which dominates the book - Chapters 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9.  Alternate  chapters (2, 4, 6, 8 and 10) give a overall historical perspective.  The early history chapters, mostly Hawaii, are detailed and highly informative. However, the 20 year span of Chapter 6 (1970-1990) is a bit light. While noting the impact of professional surfing, it fails to mention significant developements such as the legrope and the 3 fin Thruster that undoubtedly took surfing performance both deeper and higher.

2004  Warshaw, Matt : The Encyclopedia of Surfing Viking Penguin Books Australia Pty Ltd 250 Camberwell Road Camberwell, Victoria 3124, Australia Hard cover, 774 pages, black and white photographs. Appendicies include Bibliography, Contest Results, Movies, Magazines, Music. Review Encyclopedic. Personal note : Internet and surfing, page 293, notes... sites for surf history (legendarysurfers.com,  surfresearch.com.au)

2010  Warshaw, Matt :  The History of Surfing Chronicle Books LLC.  680 Second Street, San Francisco, California 94107, 2010. www.chroniclebooks.com Hard cover, 496 pages, colour and black and white photographs and illustrations, Acknowledgements, Sources, Photograph Credits, Index. Review A magnificent publication which is an essential addition to any collection of surfing books. Brilliantly written, Warshaw demonstrates a wonderful enthusiasm and an expansive appreciation of the subject. In particular, and unlike many commentators, he manages to succesfully balance the contributions from the three major surf riding centres - Hawaii, California and Australia. Importantly, Warshaw casts significant scepticism on the so-called Peruvian Theory (pages 19 to 22):

Nick Carroll's insightful review,
realsurf forum, Sunday Sep 19, 2010.
http://forum.realsurf.com/forum/search.php?t=18006

"Matt Warshaw: THE HISTORY OF SURFING
Chronicle Books, USA (Hardie Grant Australia)

Only two people have attempted this terrifying task.
The first, in 1983, was Nat Young.
The second, after around six years of singular effort interrupted by his wife having their first child, is Warshaw.
Two more different books on the same subject it’s kinda hard to imagine.

Nat’s book was big-format, thick on photos, thinnish on text, and grandiose in intention. It was named “The Complete History Of Surfing” and was determined to make itself the last word on the subject.
In fact it proved to be merely the first: since its publication, a steady flow of research, articles, docos and books has long since washed away its claims to omniscience.
The one thing it still has is the author’s voice – most touchingly when recounting Nat’s own periods of pride and joy, the world title in 1966 and the turn to shorter boards immediately afterward.

Warshaw’s book is medium-format, thick on text, and thinner yet more fascinating on photos.
It doesn’t bother with the adjective “Complete”.
In terms of both fact and historical framework, it is to Nat’s book as Pipeline is to your backyard beachie.

“The History Of Surfing” is a natural follow-up on Matt’s earlier megawork, “The Encyclopedia of Surfing”, and is written in the same dryly affectionate tone.
Its determined thoroughness is instantly evident from the first chapter, when Warshaw immediately pitches into the Peruvian Theory of surfing’s origins.
This theory, unknown to Nat in ’83, suggests that the first surfing was done by fishermen on the Peruvian coast on reed fishing craft known as caballitos, anywhere from two to three thousand years ago.
It’s been analysed swiftly and completely here, with Warshaw concluding that the fishermen may well have ridden waves before the Polynesians, but that it remains “a self-contained prelude to surf history, not the starting point”.

Then he makes two points many writers wouldn’t have had the wit to attempt.
First: who really knows how long humans have been riding waves for fun, in Peru, Hawaii, or anywhere else the water might allow it?
“For any society living on a temperate coastline, riding waves would likely be a natural, if not intuitive act … dolphins and pelicans and other animals seem to do it purely out of enjoyment, after all.
When did the first human wade into the shorebreak and try to imitate a dolphin?”
And second: why have surfers en masse greeted the Peruvian idea with such flat-affect silence?
Warshaw suggests it’s defensiveness: “Surfers love the idea that their chosen activity was born in translucent blue water, next to palm-fringed beaches, and practiced by royalty on beautiful wooden surfboards …Good luck trying to sell the idea that reed-boat-straddling Peruvians trolling for anchovy were the first real wave-riders.”

In this short beginning, you get all Warshaw’s strengths.
He lays out some facts, puts them into a fresh context, then pops a little bubble of surfing pretension into the bargain – without sending the narrative off track for a word.
The entire 495 pages reads this way, as Warshaw outlines the sport’s development in Hawaii and its subsequent spread through much of the Western world, consistently reframing old stories and information with fresh insights, and throwing in wicked little details only a true obsessive could spot.
Like the Swedish Surfing Association’s beginnings in the 1980s: “A Norse fireman named Roar Berge had taken to the reefs and points near Stavanger.”
Go, Roar!
Or did you know, for example, that a deaf lifeguard called LeRoy Columbo rented boards made from inflatable rubber tubes and heavy canvas to tourists in Galveston, Texas, in the 1930s?
LeRoy, by the way, was later named in the Guinness Book of Records as “the World’s Greatest Lifeguard”.
Take that, Eddie Aikau.

Warshaw – or perhaps the publisher, being US-based – shows a slight but clear bias toward the American West Coast surfing experience.
The first 10 pages of the book, for example, feature a series of double page photographs of, you guessed it, American surfers: riding Pipe, riding Baja, on the beach at Westside Oahu, sitting on the wall at Santa Monica, riding wood boards at Palos Verdes, capped off by a contents page shot of Hobie Alter’s board shop in Dana Point in the late ‘50s.
Yep, they’ve done it all, folks.
To be fair, Warshaw makes conscious efforts against this bias, carefully relating the start of surfing in places like Japan, and where they fit in the global picture, and being equally careful to explain (and credit) Australia’s numerous leaps ahead of the surfing world at large.
And almost never does he fall for any of the great West Coast surfing myths…including one M. Dora, Malibu’s very own Rebel Without A Cause: “Dora loved to criticize anything having to do with organised surfing, but that didn’t prevent him from showing up on contest day when the mood struck,” he writes of the 1967 Malibu Invitational.

Yet somehow, almost every shift and move in the sport ends up framed in Californian surf culture.
Sometimes this is necessary, appropriate, and even pretty goddam funny, as when Warshaw takes us on a trip into the rebirth of longboarding, well and truly happening among baby-boomers on the US West Coast as early as 1981. “For the first time ever, the sport had a middle-aged – and generally upper-middle-class – market,” he writes.
“Lawyers, real estate agents, and middle managers hit it hard on the weekends before their kids’ soccer games … Veneration of old surfers soon hit a point where any B-lister from the fifties or sixties could now be addressed as a ‘legend.’”
He builds the description of the late 1940s and ‘50s along that seminal surfing coast in a way that really lets us see its importance to the approaching explosion of surfing worldwide.
Without guys like Bob Simmons, Dale Velzy, Joe Quigg, Matt Kivlin, and Phil Edwards, it’s bloody hard to imagine how Nat, McTavish, Greenough, Hakman and Dick Brewer could’ve gone where they did.

Other times it feels out of proportion with actual events.
Long slabs about that great Californian obsession, Mavericks, are not parallelled with any description at all of the pioneering, gold-rush exploitation and general impact on the global surf community of the Mentawais – a modern surf fable of uniquely telling dimensions, which could have brought depth to the slightly rushed feel of the last 70 pages or so.
Huntington’s imported noserider David Nuuhiwa is explained at considerable length; Eddie Aikau gets two half-columns, written in a tone that leads you to suspect Warshaw doesn’t quite get his place in the scheme of things.
In these and a few other areas, especially concerning the past 30 years or so, the book’s focus seems a little too intensely focused on spectacle at the expense of story; Teahupo’o is a heavy surf spot, sure, but page after page of Laird Hamilton’s “Millennium Wave” doesn’t tell you much about the surfers of Tahiti, who actually learned to surf the spot 15 years before without a jetski or an elite camera crew on hand.

But these are smallish holes to pick in such a massive effort.
The truth is that over the past couple of decades, as more and more of its past has come to light, surfing’s grown too big for any one writer’s efforts.
Excellent as it is, this History can’t possibly cover the kind of ground Nat once thought he had to himself.
500 pages is no longer enough.
Warshaw’s book is best bought, read and seen for what it is: a superb, unmatched framing of the sport’s historical arc, and a starting point for all the stories behind it."

1978  Warwick, Wayne  A Guide to Surfriding in New Zealand Second Edition Viking Sevenseas Ltd  Wellington, New Zealand. 1978 Hardcover, 74 pages, 25 colour photographs, 64 black and white photographs, 22 black and white maps, Glossary  Review Comprehensive overview of New Zealand surfing circa 1978.  Unfortunately there are no page or chapter numbers.  Historical data in  'N.Z.S.R.A.' (a history of the New Zealand Surfriders Association, 1963-1978) and 'the early days' (1915-1963)..  Design in 'design and manufacture'.  Although the photography is not to the standard of US or Australian work of the period, it is by New Zealanders, of New Zealanders, in New Zealand. The photographs that illustrate particular manouvres are well selected.  The maps are extensive and clearly reproduced with  accompanying notes detailing break, wind, tide and access.  Design and layout by Terry Fong.

2009  Weaver, Robert "Wingnut" with Bannerot, Scott: Wingnut's Complete Surfing. International Marine - McGraw Hill , New York, 2009. Softcover, 242 pages, black and white photographs, Appendix (includes References), Index.. Review. A detailed instructional book covering both long and short board techniques.

1982  Wells, Lana: Sunny Memories - Australians at the Seaside. Greenhouse Publications Pty Ltd 385 - 387 Bridge Road, Richmond, Victoria 3126. 1982 Hardcover, 184 pages, black and white photographs, Chronology of Events. Review Expansive overview of Australian beach culture and history, starting with James Cook's description of 'indians' (aborigines) bathing in 1776.  Surfcraft in Chapter 12. 'Riding the Waves' is interesting; particularly  the sections on Isabel Letham (sic) page 156,  Grace Smith Wootton (1915 Victorian surfer) page 157 and C.J.('Snow') McAllister page 159; but does not progress much past 1970.  The Chronology is useful, but note the 1964 World Contest at Manly is listed as 1960. Photographic Highlights: "Andrew 'Boy' Charlton and Snow McAllister, both wearing V shorts over their bathing suits, with their boards at Manly, 1926" pages 88 - 89, "St Kilda Life Saving Club Member with a surfboard ... Manly" circa 1929,  page 151,  "Grace Wootton Smith" page 157.

1993  Werner, Doug : Surfer's Start-Up : A Beginner's Guide to Surfing  - Second Edition Pathfinder Publishing 458 Dorothy Avenue, Ventura, California, CA 93003, 1993. Soft cover, 111 pages, 46 black and white photographs, 12 black and white photograph sequences, 14 black and white illustrations, Glossary, Resources, Bibliography, Index. Review An intensive instructional book concentrating on basic maneuvers with an abbreviated history of surfing in Chapter 12. Highlights : photographs of LeRoy Grannis (pages 90 and 97) and Doc Ball (page 98).

1996  Werner, Doug : Longboarder's Start-Up : A  Guide to Longboard Surfing Start Up Sports/Tracks Publishing 140 Brightwood Avenue, Chula Vista, California, CA 91910. 1996 Soft cover, 160 pages, black and white photographs, black and white photograph sequences,  black and white illustrations, Glossary, Resources, Bibliography, Index. Review Longboard edition of Werner's Surfer's Start-Up : A Beginner's Guide to Surfing, 1993. See second edition, 1999, below. Intensive instructional book concentrating on basic and advanced manouvers. Design features are discussed in an interview with Bill Stewart and Henry Ford of Stewart Surfboards, pages 119 to 136. Classic longboarders may find Bob McTavish's Malibu Repetoire circa 1966 of interest... Bob McTavish is in this wave. He probably had a plan to get out of it. This copy, courtesy of Shoalhaven City Library.

1999  Werner, Doug : Surfer's Start-Up : A Beginner's Guide to Surfing  - Second Edition Start Up Sports/Tracks Publishing 140 Brightwood Avenue, Chula Vista, California, CA 91910. 1999 http://www.startupsports.com First Edition 1993 Soft cover, 128 pages, 46 black and white photographs, 12 black and white photograph sequences, 14 black and white illustrations, Glossary, Resources, Bibliography, Index. Review Intensive instructional book concentrating on basic maneuvers. Highlights : photographs of LeRoy Grannis (pages 95 and 100) and Doc Ball (page 96).

1977  White, Graham :  Surfing Summit Books, Published by Paul Hamlyn Pty Ltd 176 South Creek Road, Dee Why West 2099. 1977 Hardcover, 96 pages, 5 colour plates, 7 b/w plates, 43 b/w photographs, 7 b/w illustrations.  Review Attempt to fully cover Australian surf scene (surfboards, bodysurfing and  Surf Life Saving) by  a Surf Life Saving Champion and Olympic representative. In the surfboard section (Part 1) the text is competent  but the photography is poor.  Most interest is Part 1 Chapter 2' Choosing A Surfboard' (page 21) that includes construction  directions and accompanying photographs (McGrigor Surfboards, Brookvale).

2000  White, Jill (ed): Dupain's Beaches. Chapter and verse, an imprint of Wellington Lane Press Pty Ltd., 120 Wycombe Road, Neutral bay Nsw  2089, and John Witzig & Company Pty Ltd., Mullumbimby NSW 2482. 2000 Hard cover, 112 pages, black and white photographs. Photographs by Max Dupain, Introduction by Sebastian Smee, Text by Matthew Cawood, Design by John Witzig. Review Splendid

1978 Whitman, John B.: An Account of the Sandwich Islands:  The Hawaiian Journal of John B. Whitman, 1813-1815. Topgallant Publishing Company, Honolulu, Hawaii, 1979. and  Peabody Museum of Salem, Salem, Massachusetts,1979. Hard cover, xx pages. Review For extracts see: 1813 John B.  Whitman :Hawaiian Journal.

2000  Williamson, Luke: Gone Surfing - The Golden Years of Surfing in New Zealand, 1950 -1970 Penguin Books (NZ) Ltd, cnr Airborne and Rosedale Roads,  Albany, Auckland 1310, New Zealand. 2000 Soft cover, pages, colour photographs, black and white photographs, various magazine, poster and advertising reproductions, Glossary, Thank You (Credits). Review Excellent early history of New Zealand boardriding with a healthy concentration on board design and manufacture.  Unfortunately makes no account of prone craft and some interesting New Zealand designs such as the Levine (a hollow timber board available in kit form, circa 1959) and the Tinkler tail (1976, outside the historical parameters) are absent.

2003  Willis, Clint (editor): Big Wave- Stories of Riding the World's Widest Water Adrenaline Thunder Mouth Press An imprint of Avalon Publishing Group Incorporated 161 William Street, 16th floor New York, NY 10038 Soft cover, 316 pages, Acknowledgements, Permissions, Bibliography. Review A collection of surf stories or surfer profiles from a selection of professional  American writers. Half are selections from widely available books that are included in the surfresearch.com.au bibliography, for example Daniel Duane, Greg Noll, Jack London, John Grissim and Matt Warshaw. The remainder are reprints of magazine articles such as Outside  and The Surfer's Journal.

1979  Wilson, Jack Australian Surfing and Life Saving Rigby Limited, Melbourne, Sydney, Australia .,1979 Hard cover, pages, 29 colour photographs (plates), 75 black and white photographs, 7 black and white illustrations. Surfing photographs by Bruce Channon/Surfing World Review

2008  Winniman, Jim : Vintage Surfboards 1 - A photo history of surfboards and surfing collectables. US Vintage Surf Auction, November 2008. #134 of a limited edition of 485 copies. Review A beautifully printed book featuring selected items from the online US Vintage Surf Auction, 2008. Unfortunately some of the historical notes are incorrect, for example: "Until  Captain James Cook first sailed into Hawaiian waters in 1776, the world had not known surf riding." (page 4). Cook first observed surfriding in Tahiti in 1769 and did not arrive in the Hawaiian Islands until 1778. Some boards do not indicate basic dimensions and some of the decal images are so small to be almost illegible.

1980  Winter, Peter : 70 Years On Greenmount The  Review

2007  Witzig, John: Surfing Photographs From the 1960s and '70s. Queen Street Fine Art 34 Queen Street, Woolahra, NSW, 2025. Hard cover, 88 pages. Foreward by Robert Drew. Introduction by Mark Cherry. Review. A beautiful collection of surfing themed  photographs by an Australian master of the genre. They provide an rich historical portrait of the radical changes in surfriding and surfboards during the period, if from a strictly personal perspective. This is probably most evident in the chapter Honolua Bay, pages 26 to 33, where Matt Warshaw writes this "marked the ... arrival of the shortboard" (quoted from his Encyclopedia of Surfing, 2004). This evaluation is historically contentious.

Rod at My Paipo Boards and... More, notes:
"The paipo rider in front of Young is Jeff Callaghan, confirmed by both Rocky Hall and Jeff Callaghan."
http://mypaipoboards.org/mags/magazines.shtml#Surf_International

1999  Woodcock, Sandra :: Surfing and Snowboarding Hodder and Stoughton Educational, Euston Road, London, NW1 1999 Soft cover, pages, 3 black and white surfing photographs. Review Low key juvenile book. This copy, courtesy of Shoalhaven City Library.

1971  Wright, Bank (Wright Jr, Alan B.)  Surfing Hawaii Soft cover, 96 pages, 65 black and white photograghs, 31 black and white maps, 8 black and white illustrations, index.  Mountain and Sea  P.O. Box 64 Redondo Beach, California 90277. 1971 Photography by Steve Wilkins and Peter French, Maps by Bill Penaroza, Graphics by Kathy McKeen  Review Brief descriptions of 171 surf breaks in the Hawaiian islands, some with intensive anaysis (e.g. Sunset Beach), and general notes on Winds, Swell Direction, Currents, Living Hazzards, Tides, Camping and Save Our Surf (S.O.S. - an  enviromental organisation).  The photographs circa 1970 are excellent, however none of the surfers  are credited, even if many are recognisable (e.g. Nat Young, pp 21 and 61, Joey Cabell p70) .  Several of the maps have been reproduced in subsequent magazines.

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surfresearch.com.au

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Note
This is not a complete list of surfing books, only books read and reviewed  for this site are listed.
For more comprehensive lists go to...
The Surfing Bibliography - Surfing Books
- Steven  Whelan's comprehensive list of books, film, video and magazines, listed alphbetically.
From England,
and/or
The Water Log Surfing Bibliography
- excellent listing of books and journals  by Daved Marsh, listed by category. From USA.

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