the x-files : extreme surfing
Look closely at David Nuuhiwa's speed crouch, then look underneath.
That's right, he is in perfect trim with his surfboard upside down.
Fin up, no wax, reverse rocker : Silly? Definitely.
Dangerous? Could be.
Easy? No way.
Attention thrillseekers: Nuuhiwa is a trained, professional surfer:
Please don't attempt this at your home break.
Photo: LeRoy Grannis.
Surfer, Volume 30 Number 10 page 34.
Palm Beach Surf Life Saving Boat
Cabbage Tree 1,Fairy Bower, 27th March, 1966.
Captain : John Windshuttle
Brawley, page 148.
The boat was destroyed two waves later,
and an inquiry was held by the club into the actions of the crew.
Shooting the 'Bowl' at Makaha required that the alma (outrigger)
be specially rigged on the right side.
Makaha, circa 1976.
Photograph : Tommy Holmes' collection.
Holmes Hawaiian Canoe (1993) page 108.
In the aftermath of a wipeout, an empty 30-foot canoe stands
on one end of a Castles wave.
Waikiki, circa 1978.
Photograph : Jim Pate
Holmes Hawaiian Canoe (1993) page 108
Plywood surfing, Barbados, circa 1988.
Photograph by Dave DiGirolamo
No quite a barn door, but close.
Surfer, Volume 29 Number 12 page 113.
Hasaki, Israel, circa 1962.
Photograph courtesy of the Israel Government Tourist Office.
Klein: Surfing (1965) page 259.
Joel de Rosnay, Tamarin Bay, Mauritius, 1962.
Photo: Yep de Rosnay
The Stormrider Surf Guide Indonesia & the Indian Ocean
Low Pressure Publishing, United Kingdom, 2011, page 16.
Riding fin first.
(found online, 2015)
|Nat Young’s “Nautilas / Cuttlefish /
8 ft 6”
With Greenough spoon like nose, foam centre and flex tail.
Manufactured at Gordon Woods Surfboards 1965.
In 2005 the board was part of the Scott Dillon Museum.
Extensive warping of the nose section, the board is in otherwise original condition.
Photograph by Alby Falzon.
Reprinted in Carter (1968) #117
Surf Scooter, Bondi Beach, circa 1935.
Margan and Finney (1970) page 159
|It's a Skim-Board, Sydney,
Flat out on a skim-board. It's the latest, but no good for crowded beaches.
It weighs 90 lb., is nine feet long, folds into four sections, is driven
by a four horse-power outboard, and does 20 miles an hour.
Daily Telegraph, 7 October 1938, page 7.
|Motorized board with its inventor.
That's right folks, the $2,000 surfboard; a 10'6': fifty-pound behemoth propelled by two expensive nicad batteries.
Neil Townsend, the creator of Aqua Jet honeycomb surfboards, developed the board for his personal use, because a permanent heart condition would have otherwise entirely ended the 63-year-old Townsend's surfing.
Neil has ridden the board in surf up to ten feet in California and Hawaii.
Powered by a propeller, the board is activated when the rider lays on the control pad, and stops when he stands up.
The board moves forward as fast as a strong paddler can paddle an equivalent-sized board.
At present, the impact of this design is of little consequence on surfing, but as Neil points out; the power cells being developed are lighter, more powerful and cheaper than the ones he is using.
In ten years, his extensive research may payoff for you or me.
And who's to say -one day we may see powered boards at Sunset or Waimea Bay flying through impossible sections on those big, unsurfable offshore days.
Surfer, Volume 22 Number 3 page 58, circa 1982.