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The overview summarizes and analyses a multitude of transcribed newspaper
articles associated with surfriding reproduced in the newspaper source
documents menu.
These documents
add substantial material to the subject, often in considerable variance
to a number of widely published accounts.
While the general
subject surfriding, the focus is mostly surfboard riding, and considerable
material pertaining to racing, sailing and surfing outrigger canoes has
not been included.
It is essentially
chronological, with a minimum of digressions, and minimal cross referencing
with the established literature; the compilation of a comprehensive review
of all the possible confimations, inconsistencies or errors would be repetitive,
tedious and exhausting.
Enthusiastic readers
will need to consult their bookshelf or nearest library.
Two exceptions are
Harold Yorst's Outrigger Canoe and Surfing in Hawaii- 1778 to
1930 by Tim DeLaVega, referenced for 1908, a pivotal year in surfing
history.
The year saw the
formation, in name and substance, of the Outrigger Club and, augmented
by the visit of the Great White Fleet, the continual thriving success of
the Waikiki Regattas.
These events generated
extensive press coverage, including details of early competitive surfing
formats and a divergence in views among Waikiki's surfers about surfboard
design.
It is necessary to
make some comments about Alexander Hume Ford, the founder of the Outrigger
Canoe Club.
Despite the numerous
articles relating to Ford and surfing, these comprise about a third of
the material he generated in the Honolulu press in the summers of 1907
and 1908.
Whereas many of
the club's founding members and supporters were high profile citizens with
an extensive range of political, commercial and social interests in Haiwa'ii;
Ford was essentially a transient journalist whose principal subject appears
to be the promotion of his own ideas for the improvement and edification
of wherever he happened to be visiting.
Acknowledgements.
Several persons
have generously assisted with comments and contributions.
Thanks to Patrick
Moser, Joel T. Smith, Chris Cook, Sanda Hall, Skipper Funderberg, John
Clarke,
The menu titles are
often taken from the article's heading, but sometimes are my own description.
The menu location
usually refers the where the event occured, although it occasionally refers
to the place of publication.
Up to 2010 the majority
of newspaper extracts were located on mirofiche, printed and then scanned
with OCR and the text corrected.
These have only
the original source noted.
Since 2010 many
extracts were located thanks to introduction of the National Library of
Australia's Trove (newspaper
files up to 19??).
These entries have
had the online OCR text corrected (from the pdf. file when necessary) and
give the original source and the Trove reference.
Further extracts
were located at Chronicling
America (newspaper files up to 1922), a similar resource by the
Library of Congress, introduced in 2012.
As above, the online
OCR text has been corrected and the original source and the Chronicling
America reference noted.
The Trove and the Chronicling America websites are not static, and new titles are being added and, at some point, later editions may be available beyond the current dates.
The corrections are
not always completely correct, however most are simple spelling errors.
In the case of spelling
errors in the original text, I have tried to note these with (sic) and,
when obscure, a suggested word.
Some words are simply
indecipherable, usually due to bleaching of the ink or damage to the paper.
The text has been
formated for easy screen reading (ESR)- each sentence takes a new line,
paragraphs are indicated by a space.
When used, italics
are as the origininal text, or they denote captions to illustrations.
Printers' hyphens
have been eliminated and broken sentences (over two pages) are indicted
by ... .
"The more we look into the traditional Dark Ages of surf history —the period between missionary Hiram Bingham’s departure in 1840 and the Ford/London arrival in 1907— the more evidence we find that surfing endured in native Hawaiian communities and among whites attracted to the sport."
- Patrick Moser:
Revival,
Kurungabaa. Posted on February 25, 2011 by Clifton Evers, viewed 24 June
2012.
http://kurungabaa.net/2011/02/25/revival-by-patrick-moser/
After observing local
native surfers at Kailua on the large island in December 1874, two visiting
Americans, Professor Forbes and Charles Lambert, borrowed surfboards from
Simon Kaai, the local Sheriff.
This was apparently
not an unusual request, however, in this case, Lambert drowned while surf
riding, and his death was widely reported by the press.
In June 1877 Kamehameha
Day was to celebrated at Waikiki with displays of surfriding, unfortunately
the waves failed to cooperate and the event was cancelled.
Surfriding requires
surfable waves, the result of a complex combination of meteorological events,
and the ephemeral nature of good waves both fascinates and exasperates
surf riders.
To illustrate, on
the same day at Lahania, on Maui, the celebrations were blessed with rideable
surf and four board riders competed, including the highly favoured Poepoe
and Nakooko, the eventual winner.
Nakooko was a mature
woman: "past her youth, yet ... of a comely form."
Like a template
for future surfing contests, it was held over a specified time and judged
subjectively by an experienced elder.
Also note that the
four riders who presented for the public contest probably were the most
skilled representatives of a much larger group of recreational surfers.
Subsequent successful
surf riding dislays were reported at Waikiki (1887) and Hilo (1893) and
during this period the local press also noted particular high surf events
at these locations.
In New Zealand, the Christchurch
Swimming Club's carnival of December1890 included a high diving event and
an "African surf-board race."
The contest was probably held at the West
Christchurch School bath, where two years later the
surf-board race was
won D. H. Cashbolt by a yard from E. Sneddon, with G. Gray and A.
H. White also competing.
Perhaps the most
unusual and culturally interesting is Edward Townsend's 1893 article,
Waikiki
... where ... laziness is an art.
Townsend describes
the members of a white privileged class succumbing to a mellifluous "native"
or Polynesian lifestyle, augmented with the latest technology (in this
case the telephone), where deemed useful.
There is an implication
that the "native servants" actively (and sometimes, like their masters,
less actively) share in many of the benefits of living at Waikiki.
Of particular importance
are the visits of Hawaiian surfers to demonstrate their skills in California.
While three Hawaiian
princes attending school in California in 1885 are known to have surfed
at Santa Cruz, in the summer of 1893 a native of Kona, Hawaii, John Ahia,
was employed by the La Jolla Park Hotel to give "surf riding shows."
In a letter to friends
in Hawai'i, dated 1st September 1893 and later published in Ka Nupepa
Kuokoa, an Hawai'ian language newspaper, Ahia wrote of his work
as a fisherman and surfer in California.
[Translated by John
Clarke, September 2012, with many thanks.]
Headed "A True
Hawaiian in a Foreign Land," the article reproduced the printed header,
"La Jolla Park Hotel, Johnson and Ritchie, Proprietors," from the
hotel's notepaper of the original letter.
Ahia, perhaps with
some sense of pride, indicates that this formal address identifies his
employers and the hotel as his residence.
The La Jolla Park
Hotel was constructed in 1888, but, apparently due to local injunctions,
it did not open under the management of Howard Johnson and Charles. H.
Ritchie until 1st January 1893.
It closed in February
1896 and, four months later, the vacant building was burnt to the ground.
John Ahia is known
to be in Honolulu in April 1889 and in April 1893 he turned up in San Francisco
with three other Hawai'ians after an aborted lobster fishing expedition
to St Nicholas Island, off the California coast.
Soon after this
he made contact with Johnson and Richie who employed him pricipally as
a fisherman at the rate of $25 per month and the relatively substantial
fee "for surfing is $10 for each day."
Presumably, this
was initially for the summer months when there were most hotel patrons
and day vistitors; the surfing demonstrations were probably only given
on weekends or holidays and, of course, dependent on conducive weather
and swell conditions.
Ahia notes his previous
acquaintance with Johnson and Ritchie in Honolulu in their role as the
managers of the Hawaiian Hotel, Honolulu.
Located on the corner of Hotel and Richard
streets, it was opened in early 1872 by Allen Herbert.
Howard Johnson was manager by October
1891, and around this period it was re-named the Royal Hawaiian Hotel.
In September 1892 the management secured
a lease on a bathhouse and three cottages on the beachfront at Waikiki,
where "the sea bathing being unsurpassed on the
Island."
Known as Waikiki
Villa since 1889, the new venture was re-named the Hotel Park Annex.
The site was later
purchased by the Matson Navagation Co. for the construction of the present
Royal
Hawaiian Hotel, which opened on 1st February 1927.
Given his fishing experience, it is most
likely that John Ahia made contact with, and was
possibly employed by, Johnson and Ritchie at the Waikiki Annex.
Modest about
his surfing abilities, Ahia is
"the most unskilled" in Hawai'i,
however, in California he is "number one."
It is unclear if
he is number one by definition (that is, the only local boardrider) or
that he is significantly more skilled than the local enthusiasts.
The letter has social
elements of particular interest to the newspapers readership.
He is impressed
with the unanimity with which he is treated in California and also expresses
an enviromental awareness, noting that "even the birds are protected
by law here, which is the ultimate."
Ahia leaves the reader
in anticipation as he promises that an account of the "wanderings that
led me here ... will come later."
Intending to remain
in La Jolla for the next six months, his future plans include a possible
visit "to the east to New York."
John Ahia's travels
(and those of Johnson and Ritchie) exemplify historian Matt K.Matsuda's
concept of "trans-localism" in his definitive Pacific Worlds
(2012).
The letter was translated and paraphrased by the Hawaiian Gazette on 3rd October, and a brief summary, without mentioning Ahia by name, was printed in the Hawaiian Star on the 23rd November, 1893.
In 1894 a large contingent
travelled to San Francisco to present the Hawaiian exhibit at the 1894
MidWinter Fair comprising a replica village, aquarium, and a wide range
of products and handicrafts, including outrigger canoes and "an old-fashioned
surf-board."
Later, there would
be recurring calls to construct a similar attraction in Hawaii.
The party included
a group of hula performers and two surfers, James Apu and Kapahee, who
were to give board riding exhibitions.
Interviewed by
the San Franciso press, Apu noted that his custom surfboard was of constructed
from redwood, which " is preferable to koa, being so much lighter."
At Redondo Beach
in 1895, the local hotel presented the Hawaiian National Band as one of
their summer attractions.
In addition to their
musical performance, band members were also scheduled to demonstrate high
diving and surf riding.
Whereas the diving
(from eighty feet) by John Inea and Sam Kaaua was a success, a letter home
from a band member notes that "they could not do some surf-riding there
being no surf."
After California
the band was expecting to travel for engagements in New York, but is unknown
if they and their surfboards travelled to the East coast.
The Hawaiian National
Band appear to had some residual impact at Redondo, three years later the
locals celebrated the summer with "boat races through the surf, high
diving exhibition and swimming races."
Hawaiian Gazette
correspondent,James
K., wrote in July, 1896 that "Kalahale, the ablest surf-rider
on Molokai, is still living in Halawa Valley and at the very advanced age
of over seventy years," .
Whereas Kalahale
(presumably) recalled "it was a craze among, the youth of those days,"
the reporter noted that"that branch of acquatic sports now almost unknown
to the rising generation of Hawaiians."
To ride "standing
in various attitudes," Kalahale advised that "practice makes perfect."
Athough now lacking
strength and agility of his youth, for him
his surfriding feats
were an enduring memory, and his "most wonderful and graceful feats"
were confirmed by elder Halawa locals.
In the late 1890s,
images of surf riding become regular features of Hawaiian promotional material
for the tourist trade, initially by the shipping companies.
Before the turn
of the century, images of surfriding were of varying quality and accuracy
and most artists struggled with presenting its essential dynamics
With beginnings
of surf photography in 1890, illustrators adapted photographs to produce
far more realistic representations.
Prof. John R. Mustek's
Hawaii
- Our New Possesion was published in 1897 with an illustration of "
a native on a surf board" on the cover.
In the late 1890s,
Burton Holmes' commenced his touring Illustrated Lecture on the Hawaiian
Islands, which included motion pictures of surf riding in native canoes.
On the 5th January
1897, Frank Davey arrived in Honolulu on the Australia , to begin
work as a photographer.
He was responsible
for several early photographs of surf riders before departing Hawai'i in
1901.
At an exhibit of
postal cards in Paris in 1900, Honolulu photographer, Davey, received awards
for "artistically colored pictures of surf riding and the lei women."
The surf riding
image was possibly of an outrigger canoe at Waikiki, included in Davey's
personal album dated April 1898.
Stock number
248, titled Surf Riding, Waikiki, Honolulu, H.I., illustrates two
natives surfriding in an outrigger canoe with Diamond Head in the background.
With the formation
in 1897 of the Hui Pakaka Nalu by native canoe owners, under the management
of W. W. Dimond, canoe surfing became an enduring emblem of Waikiki Beach.
In 1910, another
Waikiki surfing club would use a variation of name, the Hui Nalu.
Previously, the
enjoyment of a canoe shoot was limited to canoe owners, their family and
friends; but now, for $1.00 an hour, the hui offered the pleasure of canoe
surfing to all.
The Hui Pukaka Nalu
advertised in the local press and was a significant presence on the beach,
with up to eight canoes regularly in action.
Following an accident
in "moderately high" surf at Waikiki, Harry Kapulu and P.L. Kumukahi
defended their reputation as skilled surf riders in a letter to the press
in 1899, and identified some of their experienced colleagues as Marshall
Brown, Leslie Scott, Ed Macfarlane, and Willie Dimond.
The attraction was
widely reported in the local and national (mainland) press over the
next couple of years and canoe surfing was automatically pencilled
in on the itinerary for every visiting dignitary and military serviceman
to Oahu.
An enthusiastic
account by one visiting officer was published in 1898 under the heading
"Royal
Sport of Surfing" - a description that would thereafter regularly appear
in print.
Hawaii, 1900.
In April 1900 heavy
north swells caused the suspension of the local steamer services and the
foreshore was threatened at Hilo Bay.
There, the day after
the peak of the swell, a "considerable number of young Hawaiians" were
seen surf-riding.
Despite some reports
of the decline of surfing at Hilo, these surfers were sufficiently skilled
and experienced to appreciate the challenge of what was probably the biggest
day of the year.
That year, "a
large Hawaiian made canoe" was offered at auction and work commenced
on the Moana Hotel, the prospectus noting that the location "is
ideal ... being at a point that faces the only place available for surf
riding."
A'a, the first racing canoe of the modern era, built for Prince Kuhio. ????
The next year, concern
was expressed for the depletion of the sands of Waikiki Beach, large sections
then being mined by the building industry.
At the Waikiki Regatta
that year an extensive program included canoe and swimming races.
Canoe surfing franchises
expanded, operating from the Long Branch Baths and in 1901 the Wakiki Inn
advertised canoe riding at 50 cents per session.
Images of canoe or
board surfing continued to feature in print such as the brochure for the
Royal Hawaiian Hotel (1903) and Emma Metcalf Nakuina's Hawaii, Its People
and Their Legends (1904).
The later was booklet
for published by the Promotion Committee and was widely distributed with
local hotels providing complimentary copies to their patrons.
The introduction
noted that "for the purposes of reproduction in magazine or newspaper,
the copyright on the contents of of this volume is waived."
One page, captioned
"Surf
Boating and Riding at Waikiki," has a photograph of canoe surfing,
one of several prone of boardridrers, and one of a lone standing surfer.
The images are accredited
to Rice and Perkins, the page design by Julian Greenwood.
The three images
were also reproduced around this time on a hand-coloured postcard with
the caption "Surf Riding at Waikiki,Honolulu" and the standing surfer
photograph was later reprinted by several newspapers.
Surf-riding was
given official sanction in July 1905 when a design incorporating Diamond
Head and a surfing canoe was adopted as the county seal of Oahu.
In April 1904, Winfield
S. Crouch, visiting from New York, drowned while board surfing at Waikiki.
Two months later
Jack London, the novelist on his first visit to Hawaii, benefiting his
status, was taken for a canoe ride.
London was far more
impressed with surfing three years later, at this point in a letter to
his future wife he merely noted that he had bathed at Waikiki.
During the year
the Tourist Promotion Committee encouraged as many people as possible to
help in the photographing of beach scenes and a proposal was considered
for the construction of a replica native village "where canoeing, surf
riding and fishing would be features."
Isobel Strong published
her novel, The Girl from Home - A Story of Honolulu, in April
1905.
The step-daughter
of Robert Louis Stephenson, she resided in Honolulu with her husband Joseph
Strong from 1882 to 1890, where she was a drawing teacher in the public
schools was was known in the local art scene for her drawings and cartoons.
The novel, set during
her stay, contains one chapter centred around a night surfing party
held at Waikiki by the then king, David Kalakaua.
Night surfing parties
were known to be held to coincide with the full moon.
The guests are treated to sumptuous meal,
during which the conversation includes a discussion of the ancient sport
of hill-sliding.
"Old Kaipo,"
who the king describes as "the only one left who can come in standing"
on
a surfboard, announces that the surfing conditions are suitable, and the
guests are taken for canoe rides.
Here, Strong's description
shares similar elements to Hawaii's Royal Pastime, attritbuted to
"O.K.D.,"
printed
in New York's The Sun in 1898.
After they return to the beach, Kalakaua
summons Kaipo to give an exhibition
of surfboard riding.
The character old
"old
Kaipo" is possibly based on "Kalahale, the ablest surf-rider on
Molokai, is still living in Halawa Valley and at the very advanced age
of over seventy years," as reported by James K. in The Hawaiian
Gazette of July 28, 1896.
Although popular
in Hawai'i and widely promoted by the local press, the book was initially
given a poor review by the Honolulu's Evening Bulletin in August
1905.
The 1912 edition
was promoted with large advertisements in the Honolulu press, at $1.00
a copy, for the next two years.
The first recorded
headstand, considered by some the ultimate demonstration of skill, was
at the 1905 Waikiki Regatta and at the end of the year the discovery of
a cache of antiquities, including a sled and a surf board, made the front
page of the Honolulu press.
Also making front
page news was the president's daughter, Alice Roosevelt, and her obligatory
"first experience as a surf rider" in a canoe.
In 1906, photography
would make a substantial impact at Waikiki.
A dramatic water
shot of an outrigger canoe shooting past Diamond Head was published in
the New York Tribune and Mr. Bonine, of the Edison Moving Picture Company,
secured film of surf riding at Waikiki.
Hawaii, 1907.
The Waikiki Regatta
of 1907 featured surfriding events for boards and canoes.
The nominated entrants
in the surfboard contest were Harry Steiner, Curtis Hustace, Dan
Keawemahi, Duke Kahanamoku, William Dole, Keanu, Dudy Miller, Atherton
Gilman, Lane Webster, and James McCandless.
(George Freeth is
listed in the swimming team for the Diamond Head Athletic Club.)
The event was postponed
and rescheduled for March where the board and surf canoe entries
were "to be made at the judges' stand."
Before "the biggest
crowd ever known at this beach", the judges, J. E. P. Law, C. W. Macfarlane,
and Olaf Sorenson, awarded first place in the board competition to Harold
Hustace and the canoe event to the
Hanakeoke.
Hustace "stood on
the board, head up and head down and as an extra turned a somersault or
two," and the performances of Harry Steiner and James McCandless were also
praised.
Alexander Hume Ford
arrived in Waikiki sometime in May 1907, followed by the novelist Jack
London and his wife, Charmian. aboard the Snark in June.
Ford was a widely
traveled professional journalist who, like London, had previously visited
Hawai'i.
His published articles
included The Chinese Eastern Railway (McClure's Magazine,
c.1899-1900), Home Life in Japan (Outlook Magazine, 1901),
and The Americanization of Paris (unknown magazine, 1906).
On this visit London
was more enthusiastic about surfing, Ford was enthusiastic.
Their stays were
brief, but their impact was huge with both promoting surfriding in widely
circulated articles.
Central in their
writing was George Freeth, lauded as "probably the most expert surf
board rider in the world" and who "has probably done more to revive
the wonderful art of the ancient Hawaiians here at home than any other
one person."
In an article printed
in 28 June 1907, either written by or initiated by Ford and probably fictitious,
George Freeth is said to be "the only man Iiving who has ever surfed
on the Atlantic coast."
It is claimed that
he had stowed away on a steamer to Atlantic City (without the knowledge
of friends, relatives, or the press), shaped a surfboard there from a local
"woodpile
when the cook wasn't looking", surfed standing on his head and rode
between the piers, taunted the local life-savers, and, for his efforts
was arrested and assaulted by the police.
It is unlikely that
Freeth actually did any of this.
However, the story
may have been based on the knowledge that someone from Hawaii had previously
ridden at surfboard at Atlantic City, to the concern of local officials.
Maybe the Royal
Hawaiian Band surfers did make it to the East coast in the late 1890s,
and in 1912 it was reported that the "City Commission forbids
the use of boards in the ocean."
The article was
accompanied by "a snapshot of of Freeth riding the breakers, the
picture being pronounced. the very best photograph ever taken of a surfer
in action ... by Mr. Ford, who stood up to his neck among the breakers
for days in order that he might be able to get a series of such photographs."
The article was probably
published to boost Freeth's profile before his departure to the mainland
to demonstrate surf riding.
Alternatively, it
may had been intended to cement the negotiations with potential East and/or
West coast promoters,.for his appearance; if so, this goal was achieved.
It is difficult
to speculate on what the local surfers thought of the article; some may
have believed it, some may have seen it as a comic hoax on Freeth's West
coast sponsors, some were perhaps glad that Freeth was leaving Waikiki.
Five days later
Freeth departed on the Alameda for Southern California to introduce
"the royal Hawaiian sport".
[Repeated in America]
By August 1907, Freeth
and Kenneth Winter were in California, but found the surf at Long Beach
unsuitable.
Freeth was more
successful at Vience Beach, his exhibitions "drawing immense crowds along
the beach and on the piers."
At the end of the
month the Vience lifeguard service launched its first lifeboat, imaginatively
named Vience, captained by P. M. Grant, "an expert swimmer" and
in the five crew, George Freeth.
Freeth would later
appear at Redondo Beach, which had previously hosted the surfers of the
Royal Hawaiian Band in 1895.
Ford returned to
Honolulu on the 1st October after a two week trip to Fiji, before arranging
for his departure to Australia.
A week later, as
the Snark was about to leave from Hilo, Kenneth Winter returned
from California.
London 's landmark
article, "Riding the South Sea Surf", appeared in the October 1907
edition of the widely circulated A Woman's Home Companion,
.
Although a Honolulu
paper announced the article's publication and printed excepts on 7th October,
the Snark had reportedly left from Hilo on that same day and it
is possible that London did not see it in print until he returned to San
Francisco.
In England, the
article was reprinted in Pall Mall magazine the following year and
in 1911 it appeared in a collection of London's writings from the Pacfic,
Voyage
of the the Snark, under the chapter heading "A Royal Sport",
by which the article is now commonly known.
The article was
written in the first weeks of June, several months before publication,
and London's copy was probably already on its way to the Home Companion
editor before Freeth was profiled in the Honolulu press at the end of the
month.
It begins "That
is what it is, a royal sport for the natural kings of the earth."
Here, "royal"
appears to imply "regal" or "stately", and the article does not specically
denote the role of the ancient Hawai'ian royalty in surfing's heritage.
London locates himself
of the shores of Waikiki, a scene dominated by the "majestic surf,"
where
a native Hawa'iian, a "Kanaka," rides a breaker for a quarter of
a mile to the beach.
In a flamboyant
description, this surfboard rider is "a Mercury" who has "mastered
matter and the brutes and lorded it over creation," more an Olympic
god than an earthly king, a role that London himself seeks to emulate.
The next paragraphs
detail a scientific explantation of the motion of ocean waves and an explanation
of the dynamics of surf riding.
The concept that
the water in an ocean wave does not move but rather is the result of a
circular motion, which when interrrupted results in breaking surf, was
probably enlightening to the general reader, but the scientic community
had been sudying this phenomena for a century
The first wave theory
was proposed by Franz Gerstner of Czehoslovakia in 1802, followed by experiments
in Germany with the first wave tank by the Weber brothers in 1825.
By 1867 wave motion
theory was noted in books about water sports, one such work a likely source
for London.
He also describes
waves of translation, broken waves where the water does move shoreward,
and the difficulties they pose to the surfrider.
The analysis of the
dynamics of surfing is insightful in attempting to describe the concept
of triming, where the board's position relative to the wave face appears
both stationary and moving - "you keep on sliding and you'll never reach
the bottom."
He suggests that
board speed equals wave speed.
While this is a
necessary, or minimal, condition for successful wave riding, London does
not consider one of surfriding's exciting attractions - that surfboards
often travel faster than wave speed.
London records his
first attempts at prone surfing with a small board at Waikiki, unsuccessfully
attempting to emulate a number of juvenile natives, before taking instruction
from Alexander Hume Ford.
Ford is a recently
arrived surfriding enthusiast, by implication "a strong swimmer" who
London credits with prodigious atheletic ability.
In a matter of weeks
since arriving on Oahu and without the benefits of instuction, Ford has
mastered prone surfing and, after purchasing a "man's sized" board,
is now riding standing and sharing waves on the outer reefs with George
Freeth.
Ford lends his large
board to London for a prone surfing lesson, and in half an hour he is successfully
catching waves and has advanced to "leg-steering" to change the board's
direction, particularly useful in avoiding other bathers.
The next day Ford
takes London to the "blue water " of the outer reefs where he is
introduced to George Freeth and rides prone on his "first big wave."
Evidently, London
had no difficulty in previously obtaining a small board and Ford is, likewise,
able to procure another suitable large board for the second day's surfing.
While Freeth is
clearly experienced and willing to offer useful advice, London does not
otherwise directly assess his surfing skill.
.
London's enthusiasm
gets the better of him and four hours later he returns to the beach with
a severe case of sunburn.
The Honolulu press
suggests this was in the first week of June.
The article concludes
with London writing from his bed and resolving to ride standing, like Ford
and Freeth, before leaving Hawai'i. .
Before the end of the year the Londons had departed for the South Seas, Freeth was in California, and Ford was on his way to Australia.
Hawaii, 1908.
Ford returned to
Honolulu from Australia on the 3rd March 1908, stating "I have come
back to Hawaii because I am homesick."
(His previous period
of "residence" was less than six months.)
Two days later,
identified as "the writer and surf-board expert", Ford publicly
announced his vision of "some sort of a canoeing club, with headquarters
at a club-house on the beach."
The initial motivation
was to "develop ... the greatest sport a man can find", although
this would later have various additions and adjustments.
The idea of a canoe-surfing
cub was hardly radical, and no doubt the concept had been discussed previously,
if not acted upon.
The Waikiki Regatta
Committee provided a competitive model, having successfully presented a
series of vigorously contested canoe and surfboard events, and there was
the precedent from ten years earlier with the introduction of the Hui Pukaka
Nalu.
The important concept
was the acquisition of coastal property, giving the club a tangible identity.
The premises would
provide a centre for administrative, competitive and social activities
in addition to beach front storage for surfboards and/or access to an extensive
range of surf craft, probably the most important function for active members.
Ford was possibly
influenced by Sydney's fledging surf lifesaving clubs on his visit there
in 1907-1908.
To consolidate their
public status, the clubs were actively petitioning their local councils
for the provision of beach front property, ostensibly in recognition of
their voluntary community service.
During 1907, a precedent
(one of many) was set by the Bondi Surf Bathers' Lifesaving Club when it
was granted permission to construct premises in the beach front park by
Waverly Council.
The council also
contributed substantial funds, and the first Bondi clubhouse was operational
by October.
At Waikiki, Ford
would substitute voluntary community service with a variety of ideals,
including to enjoy and develop surfriding, the conservation of a
traditional art, the provision regular surfing competitions, to preseverve
and promote Pacfic maritime culture, the promotion of Hawai'i as an international
tourist attraction, and, in the face of rapidly increasing restrictions,
to preserve beach access for future generations; as the Outriggers' raison
d'être.
On the 14th March,
eleven days after Ford's initial press release, Honolulu's
Evening Bulletin
announced that the manager, Mr. Stout, and the proprietor of the Seaside
Hotel had allocated a site a clubhouse "at Waikiki for surf-boarders,
and ... canoe surfing."
This arrangement
was "at the request of Alexander Hume Ford ... and 'Jack' Atkinson has
promised to promote and organise the club."
The previous day
Burton Holmes and Ford had toured the beach front lanai, taking photographs
and expounding various expansive plans for the future.
These comprised
a combination of several existing ideas; the club buildings would replicate
traditional Hawaiian contraction and promote native arts (essentially a
tourist native village, circa San Francisco 1894, the concept revived in
1904), regular contests (the Waikiki Regattas), and the collection of other
Pacific craft (echoes of Ford's concept of a Pan-Pacfic Union).
A range of membership
fees was suggested ($10 for men, $5 for boys) and, having inspected
the site, the stabilization of the lagoon and the provision of anchorage
was considered.
A potential tourist
boon for the islands, it was also suggested that the adjacent Seaside and
Moana Hotels were likely to benefit financially from the patronage of club
members and their guests.
The formation of
the club had the support of the poet Mrs. Ella W. Wilcox and, in
absentia, novelist Jack London.
Mark Twain was to
be honoured with "a special chair and corner of the Outrigger Club's
lanai."
Compounding the
impression that the acquisition of the site was a formality, the article
included a photograph of Waikiki beach captioned "Outrigger Club Headquarters".
At this point the
Outrigger Club had four members, 'Jack' Atkinson and Alexander Hume
Ford plus non-resident members Burton Holmes and R. K. Bonine, and, apparently,
a significant block of waterfront property.
It later transpired
that the property was controlled by the the trustee of the Queen Emma Estate,
Mr. Bruce Cartwright, and without further documentation, the role of Mr.
Stout and the Seaside Hotel is unclear.
Stout's name later
appears on an early list of Outrigger Club members and he competed
as the captain of the Kamaapake, one of two canoes owned by the
Seaside Hotel.
Furthermore the
announcement was perhaps somewhat premature as any development was likely
to require, at least in-spirit if not official, consent of the neighbouring
land holders.
Subsequently, the
property negotiations proceeded behind closed doors.
[For an account of
the property negotiations, lease agreement and early membership, see Yorst,
Harold: The Outrigger Canoe Club, 1971, Chapter 3.
Additional information
may be available in Barbara Del Piano's Outrigger Canoe Club- The First
Hundred Years, 1907-2007, Outrigger Canoe Club, Honolulu, 2007. (unsighted)]
This bold announcement,
before support was canvassed or endorsed at a public meeting, was possibly
germinated on the 6th March when all four "members" and the guest of honour,
Ella W. Wilcox, were present at the Kululani School in celebrations in
memory of the death of Princess Kaiulani.
Ford's initial announcement
had appeared the day before, and it was likely that it was enthusiastically
discussed among the official party.
The property negotiations
were probably facilitated by the connections of A. L. C. Atkinson, who,
as the Territorial Secretary, was the top government official in Hawaii.
Furthermore, at
canoe surfing Atkinson was noted as "an expert at the business",
he was a member of the Regatta Committee, had his own team of female paddlers,
on Regatta Day was the starter for the canoe races, and he assisted Bonine
in shooting his surfing films.
He was also the
president of the Healani Boat Club, which may have been considered a conflict
of interest.
As there were already
several functioning clubs who had teams competing at the Waikiki Regattas,
there may have been some concern that the new club may prove attractive
to their membership.
Ford's multitude
of "original" ideas for the benefit of Hawaii was humorously critiqued
by the Hawaiian Star a week later, concluding:
"Ford is full
or ideas and by the way, Honolulu does not recognize an idea until a malihini
(visitor)
springs
it."
Ford was not the
only target of cynics, and the acclaim for Jack London's
"A Royal Sport"
was not universal.
On the 14th April
one correspondent commented on the claims in the current edition
of the Woman's Home Companion:
"All of which
may advertise Jack London but which is pretty poor promotion stuff for
Hawaii.
"London did not
force himself into the settlement (the leper colony at Molokai),
as everyone here well knows, but went under official escort, and as for
the risk he took with his neck at Waikiki, it is the same risk that every
ten-year-old boy in the Islands takes and enjoys."
This was the only
time that an embellished account of the leper colony caused friction.
In October 1908,
R. K. Bonine revealed to the press that in a recent letter Burton Holmes
apologised for a similar story recently published in the Ladies' Home
Journal,
"intimating that he related the 'incident' under the influence
of Alexander Hume Ford."
The Outrigger Club
promoters' announcement initiated action, and reaction.
On the 16th April,
Ford was reported to be in conciliatory negotiations with H. L. Herbert,
representing the interests of those who used canoes for fishing at Waikiki.
"A call,
setting forth the objects of the Club" was circulated, signed by J.
F. Morgan, A. H. Ford, James A. Wilder, Wm. R. Castle, J. A, Gilman, Richard
H. Trent, J. Waterhouse, J. A. McCandless, H. P. Wood, A. M. Brown and
A. L. C. Atkinson.
[An existing typed
copy of "the call", and signed in the exact order as above,
is dated a week earlier, April 7, 1908, and the title is the Outrigger
Canoe and Surfboard Club; reproduced in Yorst: The Outrigger Canoe Club
(1971), page 38.]
Mr. H. P. Wood was
the secretary of Hawaii Promotion Committee, and in regular contact
with Alexander Hume Ford.
Richard H. Trent
was the President of the Trent Trust Company with offices in Honolulu.
Apart from Atkinson,
several of the signatories had beach connections and/or were active in
competitive surfing.
Wm. R. Castle and
A. M. Brown held waterfront property at Waikiki, the later the owner of
the large outrigger Alabama.
J. A. McCandless
was a competitive board rider and A. A. Wilder (son of James A.???),
like Atkinson, was a member of the Regatta Committee and a starter for
the canoe races.
The article repeated
the claim that the club would build on property adjacent to the Seaside
Hotel, the schedule of fees, and added that
"about one hundred members
have been secured."
The same edition
noted that Atkinison, in his role as president, had called an meeting of
the Healani Boat Club on an unspecified day of that week and on unspecified
matter.
A week later, on
the 22nd April, the press carried an announcement that a "meeting
of persons interested in organizing the Outrigger club will be held next
Friday afternoon in the rooms of the Promotion Committee for the purpose
of completing the organization of the club."
This meeting was
postponed, and another was scheduled for the 24th, this time under the
title of the "Outrigger and Fishing Club."
The adjustment to
the name may have been a concession to H. L. Herbert and his fishing devotees,
and/or an move to increase the membership.
The "first" Outrigger
Club (now without the "and Fishing" tag) meeting on the 24th, was
chaired by Acting Governor E. A. Mott-Smith, a temporary board was elected
(Ford, Trent and Wood), and a working committee appointed, although there
was some variation in identifying the members.
One newspaper reported
the meeting was attended by "quite a large number of surfing enthusiasts
", conversely another noted "a rather small number were present".
During April, the
National
Geographic Magazine published a full page advertisement for the Hawaii
Promotion Committee designed by Gr. Noetzel.
Titled Winter
Sport in Hawaii, it feaured palm trees, a large central image
of a surfboard rider, and a single outrigger canoe rider framed by Diamond
Head.
At the next meeting
on the 1st May, the official positions were filled and A. H. Ford was now
formally President.
L. H. (sic) Herbert
was elected Vice -President, perhaps facilitating the inclusion
of some of the Waikiki fishermen.
However five days
later, Ford was still unsure of the name (or names) when he commented "When
we get through with the Outrigger and Fishing Clubs, there'll be something
to do along the line of reviving the ancient sports of Hawaii."
On May 15th, the
press perceived a lack of activity, suggesting that the " only one that
seems to take any interest at all in the sports is the one who started
the club."
While apparently
in limbo, the behind the scenes negotiations had produced a pivotal achievement.
Four days later
(Before the end of the week ??) it was announced that the Outrigger Canoe
Club had "secured its leases from the Queen Emma Estate."
Thanks were extended
to Mr. Bruce Cartwright, among others, but only for assistance with
legal processing and there was no mention of Mr. Stout or the Seaside Hotel.
Less accurately,
the article noted that the lease was for twenty years and the club had
200 members.
Compounding
the mystery surrounding the property arrangements between the Outrigger
Club and the Queen Emma Estate, over six months later, a brief item in
the press stated that the "grounds were yesterday (28th December,
1908)
leased ... to three members ot the club for fifty years at a rental
of five dollars per year."
Alexander Hume Ford
was unlikely to be one of these three members, having already departed
Hawaii before this date.
The agenda for the
next meeting included the erection of a lanai, the procurement of
canoes and surfboards, and preparations to entertain the soon-to-be visiting
US fleet.
Later known as the
Great White Fleet, its arrival was eagerly anticipated by the islands'
commercial, social and sporting bodies.
At the next meeting
on 21st May the purchase of canoes and surfboards was authorised "for
the members who have paid their dues."
The fees were apparently
set at the previously suggested $10 full and $5 junior membership.
("The call" of
7th April indicated $10 for full members, who were able to invite guests,
and $5 for "actual surfers" and junior members)
While it is difficult
to assess what a disincentive the fees were to membership, note that the
$5 was two and a half times the price of a new surfboard.
It is impossible
to determine how many new boards, if any, were purchased.
The number of registered
members was substantially less than the 200 as previously claimed, the
number of paid up members was likely to be smaller still.
The statement of
intention indicates that there were experienced shapers and suitable timber
billets available to supply these boards, if required.
As for the canoes,
Ford would later write that some "long forgotten" native canoes
were located and restored by club members, but new koa-wood boats were
only available from the big island Hawaii.
In July 1908, a
report on a recently opened koa mill noted that "it is not unusual to
have logs that are six feet in diameter, and eighteen to twenty feet in
length," certainly suitable dimensions for building a substantial canoe.
However, before
the end of the year, a canoe was being built on the club grounds by ???
A building committee,
one of several, was instituted and plans for the visiting fleet comprised
"placing
the boards and canoes unrestrictedly at their service at all times on the
day."
Three days later,
the club acquired ownership of two authentic grass houses, " built by
old-time natives brought from Maui, Kauai, and Hawaii", at the
recently defunct Kaimuki Zoo.
It is unclear to
what extent this was at the instigation of, or endorsed by, the newly formed
building committee.
Before the end of
the month they had been dismantled, transported to Waikiki and were being
re-erected on site.
With the establishment
of the clubhouse buildings, the Outrigger Club was now more than just an
idea and over the following months the press noticed an "great number
of canoes and boards" at Waikiki, which it attributed to the activity
of the club.
It may have also
been particularly good summer for surf.
The end of June saw
a visit from Secretary of the Interior, James R. Garfield, include the
standard canoe surf at Waikiki and at the beginning of the next month the
Hawaiian
Gazette reported that Ruth Soper was capable of catching her own wave
and a week earlier "stood on her board, but not in the big surf."
The reporter also
noted the efforts of Mr. A. B. Leckenby who "learned in three lessons
to stand upon the surfboard."
Mr. Leckenby was
seventy years old.
At the other end
of the spectrum, "little" Margaret Restarick, with the assistance
of Kenneth Winter as her starter, rode standing from "the cornucopia
surf to the beach."
Kenneth Winter had
previously accompanied George Freeth to California in August 1907 and was
now
"the captain of the Outrigger Club".
By mid July the Regatta
Committee released its program and prize list for the upcoming festivities
for the entertainment of the fleet.
The entrants for
the sixth event, "Surfboard Contest In Big Surf", were Sam Wight,
Curtis Hustace, Arthur Gilman, Atherton Gilman, Lane Webster, Harold Hustace,
Harry Steiner, David Center, T. J. Carter, Ted Carter, all of the Outrigger
Club; Jimmy Keolanui, Major Keaweamahi, Herman Mahi.
Most of these competitors
also crewed in the numerous canoe events.
Members of the Outrigger
Club had "decided to ask for cups in place of money prizes."
This was probably
a concern about maintaining amateur status, a potential issue if competing
in athletics or swimming.
Three months later,
the Pacific Amateur Athletic association of the Amateur Athletic Union
of the United States disqualified George Freeth from its swimming events
because his employment as a lifeguard at Venice beach.
The sixteenth event
was a "Beginners' Surf board Race in Small Surf", the prize a cup,
followed by a "Surfboard and Surfboat Contest in Canoe Surf" as
a finale.
There were two opposing
schools of thought of surfriding at Waikiki in the summer of 1908 - a division
between short boarders and long boarders.
(To be technically
precise, the distinction is between low volume and high volume boards.)
For the surfboard
shapers at Waikiki in 1908, design was not static.
In the program,
some junior members of the Outrigger Club submitted several rules and guides
for judging board surfing.
The first rule stated
"No
wave caught after it has broken shall count."
While these events
were usually scheduled as "Races", clearly this was a judged on
wave riding performance, and the take-off should be on the green swell.
The second was an
interference rule, "the man knocked off gets credit" and "the
man that fouls another is discredited."
There were three
suggested criteria for judging- wave size ("big waves are harder to
start on than a small one"); critical positioning ("surfing in the
middle is harder than on the sides"); and the length of ride.
Here the junior
members demonstrated their support for the short board school, noting
that "distance depends on the size of the board" they sought to
minimize this advantage by stating "distance covered after the wave
has stopped breaking shows no skill."
The dispute would
continue.
The judges were
to be A. A. Wilder, S. M. Kanakanui, and Robt. Atkinson.
The Evening Bulletin
published
Alexander Hume Ford's first extensive article on surfriding,
"Riding
Breakers", on 17th July 1908.
The brief introduction;
at school in South Carolina, an illustration in his geography book invokes
dreams of surfriding; almost reads like fantasy.
In Surfing in
Hawaii (2011, pages 18-19), Tim DeLaVaga reproduces an etching of a
Polynesian beach scene from William Swinton's Grammar School Geography,
published in 1880.
That year Ford would
have been about twelve years old and probably was in school.
It does not illustrate
Ford's recollection of "Hawaiian men and women (in impossible attitudes)
... standing on the tiniest of boards,... upon the crest of monster rollers."
It does show a woman
and child swimming, a double canoe with a sail and six crew riding a swell
towards the shore and a bare breasted woman poised on a surfboard, submerged
just below the surface and heading out to sea.
Assuming this last
element of the illustration is meant to represent surfboard riding; it
is unrealistic, confusing and counter-intuitive.
If Ford did see
the book at school in the 1880s, his initial interest may have, like that
of his classmates, rather focused on the bare breasts.
Significantly, the
illustration also depicts Polynesians in repose on the beach in front of
two grass houses, with a large mountain in the distance.
Photographs of the
first buildings on the Outrigger site at Waikiki bear a remarkable similarity.
The introduction
is followed by details of the various surfing breaks of Waikiki and a description
of the elements of surfboard riding.
These passages are
probably based on Ford's personal experience, however as a journalist he
also may have collated material from experienced surfers.
He certainly had
information, if not inspiration, from one inexperienced surfer, Jack London.
Ford had returned
with a canoe from the Hebrides, which probably was the outrigger named
Liola
which
competed in six-paddle races at Waikiki in mid 1908.
Captained by Curtis
Hustace, with Ford listed as the owner, she also competed in the "Old
Style" canoe sailing with Ford at the helm.
The second half of
the article is essentially Ford's first history of the Outrigger Club.
Here he presents
two similar, but not identical, motivations for the club's creation.
Initially, he writes
that surfing's future, personified in "the small boy of Honolulu," was
threatened by restricted surfing access due to coastal development at Waikiki.
This was a recent
threat, in the past three ("several") years, and has been
arrested with the formation of the Outrigger Club.
More succinctly,
less poetically, and from a slightly different perspective; the closing
paragraph states "The Outrigger Canoe Club has been organized solely
to revive and popularize the Hawaiian water sports that have made these
islands famous the world over."
While this is a relatively straightforward statement of values, the
first implies an air of local urgency where the acquisition of beachfront
property is a necessary solution.
According to Ford,
the enthusiasm of the Outrigger Club members was not confined to the beach,
they
"ransacked"
Honolulu for "long forgotten" native canoes.
He writes
that surfing "has come down to the 'haole,' from the old Hawaiian Kings
of Hawaii", not only confirming surfing's royal Hawai'ian heritage,
but perhaps also invoking St. Paul preaching to the gentiles.
While praising the
skills of the native helmsmen, "there are white boys fully as expert
as any Hawaiian youths, both in the canoe and on the surfboard."
This is further
qualified- a white man was the first to win a surfing contest and a
"half white" (presumably George Freeth) is the best, at everything.
The members' social
areas with change (and sanitary?) rooms, and the storage facilities, located
in the
"finest specimens" of native grass houses, are all noted.
Half the amount
previously stated, full membership fees are now said to be $5.
The claims of a
membership of 200 and the twenty year lease are repeated.
Finally, the club
successfully introduced new enthusiasts to the sport, in particular young
women, and there were plans for a women's auxiliary, to be situated on
land courtesy of the Seaside Hotel management, again.
The waves and wind
provided excellent conditions for the July Regatta, and, boosted by the
crews of the visiting fleet, the attendance was estimated as between four
and five thousand, "the largest crowd ... ever"
Even with the addition
of the visiting sailors, the majority of the spectators and competitors
were Hawaiians and during the afternoon there were up to fifty outrigger
canoes and sixty surf board riders in the waves.
There was some debate
as to which was the most exciting event; some thought it was the four-paddle
canoe race while others were enthusiastic about the race between three
canoes
"manned by buxom Hawaiian women".
Overall, it was
probably the surfboard riding that was judged the most impressive.
About twenty competitors
vied for honours, and the contest featured representatives of the two schools
of board design.
Outrigger captain,
Kenneth Winter, and Sam Wight rode the "longest and thickest boards
known to Waikiki."
Short board devotee
and the previous years champion, Harold Hustace, demonstrated all his skills,
but on the day the performance of the long boards, critically in length
of ride, saw Winter and Wight declared joint winners.
The junior competition
was also a tie, between Lane Webster and Harry Steiner.
Despite Hustace's
dismissal of the long boards as "canoes", one reporter predicted
that they had "come to stay."
This dispute would
continue.
Where previously
the Moana Hotel was the focus for the regattas, the grass houses of the
Outrigger Club now became the contest headquarters and the location of
the gallery- a group of fellow competitors, supporters and experienced
elders who commented freely on the action, with particular appreciation
expressed for the wipe-outs.
The Outrigger Club
was now a significant, and enduring, presence on Waikiki Beach.
In August, Ford had
a second surfriding article published, this time by the mainland press,
in St. Nicholas magazine.
Titled "A Boys'
Paradise in the Pacific" it was specially tailored for the magazine's
family readership and was primarily focused on surf board riding, with
some comments on body and canoe surfing.
He notes that surfing
is practised by both genders, has a regal Hawai'ian heritage, and has been
successfully adopted by "white" residents.
The other major
racial groups in Hawai'i; the Japanese, Chinese and Portuguese; were, according
to Ford, either less proficient or had little interest in surfing.
While the relative
canoe surfing skills of the whites and natives are debatable, he concedes
that the native helmsman is superior when "there are large waves to
encounter."
Whereas, Jack London
reported in 1907 that Ford had accomplished standing surfing in a matter
of weeks and without the benefits of instruction, here Ford recalls that
he "learned the from the small boys of Waikiki" and that it took
"four hours a day to the sport for nearly three months."
Body surfing is,
for Ford, a "difficult feat, and one which I succeeded in accomplishing
but once."
The majority of the
accompanying photographs, some presumably by the author, are of surfing
and one, "Coasting Down a Wave," was previoulsy printed by
the Hawaiian Gazette in June 1907, where it was titled "George
Freeth" with copyright by Alexander H. Ford.
It is of superior
quality compared to the earlier newspaper reproduction.
Also discussed and
illustrated are a variey of juvenile pastimes such as mountain climbing,
sliding on ti leaves,"foot-diving," horse riding ("Paa-u races"),
raising ducks, swimming, flume riding, and diving for coins.
The Outrigger Club administration responded to the demand for a ladies' auxiliary in September, noted by Ford in two months earlier, and indicated that work would start on their building, once one hundred women members were enrolled.
The Regatta Committee
may have been inconvenienced by the sudden departure of Jack Atkinson to
the large island Hawaii, as they prepared a slightly shorter program for
a second fleet regatta.
It included surfing
contests for boards, outrigger canoes, and outrigger canoes manned by visiting
sailors, although in this event each crew was augmented with a Hawaiian
helmsman.
Whereas almost all
the canoe events carried cash prizes, the surfboard competition was for
a cup.
As at the previous
regatta, the judges were A. A. Wilder, S. M. Kanakanui and Robt. Atkinson.
In the conflict
between the two schools of design, the short board lobby appeared to have
a significant victory.
The rules now stipulated
that "Surf Board Contest Boards not to be over 8 ft. long."
The waves for the
October Regatta were perhaps even better than in July, and the numbers
in attendance comparable.
A solid swell and
a brisk offshore wind was excellent for the surf riders, but created difficulties
in the sailing events.
The swell added
drama to all the paddling races and the skills in negotiating the break,
including those of the women paddlers, were highly praised.
One reporter noted
that while some results settled on a technicality, the judges' decision
was accepted in good spirits by all the competitors.
The surf board contest
was won by Vincent Genoves with [Guy] Rothwell in second place.
The first Outrigger
Canoe Club Carnival was planned for November with some events in the surf
and others on the lagoon adjacent to the clubhouse.
Admission was free,
but tickets at 50 cents were required for the dances held at the Seaside
and Moana Hotels.
Kenneth Atkinson
(relation of A. L. C. Atkinson?) had replaced Kenneth Winter as the club
captain.
The program featured
a number of surf riding events; surfboard contests for men and girls, bodysurfing,
and canoe surfing.
The first event
of the day was a men's' surfboard riding contest, in three disciplines-
a long distance race, a relay, and finally "Fancy stunts
in canoe surf."
The women's' competitors
included Ruth Soper, who also captained a canoe, and five year old Kinau
Wilder.
The daylight program
included a novelty event, "Spear-tilting on surfboards", and ended
with swimming and body-surfing.
After dark, several
events enhanced by "illumination" were to be held on the lagoon
and in the surf, including "electric surfboarding."
The Outrigger Club
postponed the competitive regatta to the 5th December, but proceeded with
the social carnival on the 7th November.
Some members had
commitments at the Castle Home Fair and others to a yachting cruise, and
there was some disquiet that the aquatic and social activities were not
compatible.
Apparently the illuminated
events on the lagoon and in the surf were completed.
Canoes were to be
illuminated by "torches of bamboo, filled with oakum and benzine",
while, at this point, it was intended that the surfboards use onboard "storage
batteries" while ridden in the surf.
This system was
developed by Kenneth Atkinson, however later reports suggest that, after
further experimentation, the light source was "acetylene".
In the days leading
up to the carnival one reporter praised Ford's vision in reviving a sport
"which
was fast dying out," probably a reference to Ford's "Riding Breakers"
published
in mid July.
The article noted
that "the nucleus (of this little club) ... was ... Alexander
Hume Ford, Dr. F. H. Humphries, Judge Ballou, Mr. James Wilder and Mr.
Guy Rothwell."
The program for the
December regatta largely replicated the events proposed for November, and
detailed the course, presiding officials and the prizes.
The first event
was the men's competition over three disciplines.
A long distance
race from Outrigger beach to canoe surf and back, followed by a
relay from judges' stand to point opposite the Seaside Hotel and return,
and finishing with "Fancy stunts in canoe surf."
The committee was
Ben Genoves, Harold Hustace, and Kenneth Atkinson.
The prizes for first
and second place was a surfboard, third place was awarded club membership
for 1909.
The sixth event
was "Spear throwing from surfboards", requiring contestants to spear
a balloon tethered in the surf while standing on their boards.
The committee was
Harold Hustace, Marston Campbell, and Arthur Gilman, with a surfboard
as the prize.
This was immediately
followed by the women's' competition, where Ruth Soper was the chairman.
First place went
to the girl "standing best and longest" on her board for three waves,
second place to the "one coming in farthest without paddling."
Not previously identified
(but surely assumed) is the judging criteria of style- "standing best".
Length of ride was
the other criteria and this is the first report of scoring a specified
number of waves.
The prizes were
items of jewellery.
Another surfboard
riding event was scheduled for late in the afternoon, the
course from the buoys to beyond canoe surf to the beach.
The committee for
this event was Arthur Gilman, James McCandless, and Chas. Brenham, and
the prize a koa steering paddle.
The evening program
was to feature illuminated displays similar to those held during the previous
month.
Kenneth Brown was
the chairman and a "koa surfboard offered as a prize to the most strikingly
illuminated canoe."
Most reports of
surfboards do not indicate the timber, while the paddles offered as prizes
are said to be koa this is a rare reference to a new koa surfboard in this
era.
The press reported
that leading up to the regatta, members were enthusiastically practising
in the surf and all the club's craft were in daily demand.
On the site, a caretaker
[Pat O'Brien] had been appointed, the grass houses repaired, and
some new buildings erected.
In addition to the
numerous press articles promoting the regatta, a number of "handsome"
posters were displayed, "depicting members.. indulging in aquatic
sports".
To speculate, some
of the posters were possibly souveniered by eager young surf enthusiasts
the day after the regatta, if not before.
Unfortunately articles
confirming the results of the regatta are as yet to be located, however
two later reports indicate that it was a success.
In a letter to the
editor in December, George Osbourne recalled that the day was as impressive
as the previous regattas held during the visit of the Great White Fleet,
and the illuminated events were "a grand display".
A similar assessment
was expressed by Mr. H. L. Herbert, vice-president of the Club, several
days later when interviewed while visiting Sydney.
Ford had a third
surfing article, Aquatic Sports, published in the December
edition of Paradise of the Pacific magazine and before the end of
the year, Jack London’s "Riding the South Sea Surf" was
reprinted in England's
Pall Mall magazine and Burton Holmes, was
touring his Illustrated Hawaiian Lectures in the mid-West
of America.
Reminiscent of the
Mid-winter Fair of 1894, Guy Rothwell suggested that outrigger canoes be
included in the Hawaiian exhibit, to operate on Lake Washington,
Seattle, at the Alaska-Yukon Exposition of 1909.
Only days after first
Outrigger Club carnival, Alexander Hume Ford announced to the press on
the 8th December that he was departing immediately for British Columbia,
the beginning of a World tour.
Inconveniently,
Mr. H. L. Herbert had already left Honolulu to sail to Australia, leaving
the club without a President and Vice President.
Ford revealed that
the tour had been arranged several weeks earlier, but he had delayed it
until the completion ot the new Outrigger Club buildings.
Described as "an
expert oarsman and trained athlete", Ford's interview incorporated
an updated history of the Outrigger Club.
He started it to
prevent surfing "falling into oblivion", membership was approaching
300, he leased the site for twenty years, the first building was a grass
house purchased on a neighbouring island (incorrect, the zoo was on Oahu).
Since then new buildings
were erected, most recently a dancing lanai over the lagoon (just in time
for the carnival), a caretaker appointed, and there were arrangements for
"serving
meats."
Everything was "shipshape."
Not surpassingly,
some were less positive about the achievements and the future of the club,
and one was distinctly displeased.
The following day,
the sports editor of the Evening Bulletin wished the club success
following the departure of Ford.
In the article he
implied that the mainland had no equivalent surfing conditions, probably
an understandable misapprehension in 1908.
More accurately,
he predicted that "in time, sportsmen may flock here in large numbers"
for
the surf.
Some might have
thought the were enough surfers at Waikiki already.
In a letter of the
18th December to the Hawaiian Star , George Osbourne expressed concern
for the clubs' future.
While he congratulated
Ford and the club's recent regatta, he suggested the club was "not everything
one could wish."
Osbourne was less
than enthusiastic about Ford's grass house-Hawaiian village concept, he
regarded the current facilities as inadequate and noted that many members
would have preferred a modern clubhouse, the site required substantial
landscaping, and the recently installed dancing floor was in urgent need
of a roof.
He also thought
that the use of Outrigger Club canoes and surfboards required regulation,
apparently these were being ridden by some unscrupulous non-members.
Pat O'Brien was distinctly
displeased.
In an interview
published in January 1909, Pat O'Brien was described as "Ford's right
hand man about the precincts of the Outrigger Club"- he was the manager
referred to by Ford, and others.
O'Brien used the
term "muckinmuck".
He claimed that
he was employed by Ford at $20 a month, and took the job on a promise that
Ford would arrange a vendor's license and supply the equipment and stock
for O'Brien to sell iced soda and ham sandwiches (Ford's "serving meats"),
to Outrigger members and guests.
The license, equipment
and stock failed to materialize.
With Ford's sudden
departure, O'Brien resigned after a failed attempt to have Allan Herbert
and Mr.Trent clarify his situation, and was hoping for, at the least,
steerage passage home to "America."
Hawaii, 1909.
Despite leaving Honolulu
with the Outrigger Club in a less than ideal situation, in early January
Alexander Hume Ford cabled news from the mainland of the forthcoming Polynesian
Olympia in Honolulu in 1911.
Clearly a Pacific
version of the modern Olympic Games recently
held in Paris in
1908, these would include native Americans from the West coast, Japanese,
Australian aborigines, Soamans, Fijiians and, of course, native Hawai'ians.
Apparently, none
of these potental participants were otherwise informed of Ford's plans.
Aware that this
would require some extensive organisation, he confidently stated "I
am certain that the Outrigger Club is now strong enough to handle the proposition."
Later that month
the Hawaiian Star published an article praising the work of the
Outrigger Club.
Perhaps coincidentally,
four days later a follow up article made a case for the club to be assisted
financially by the Promotion Committee.
At the end of January,
the Evening Bulletin published a letter from Frank C. Clark announcing
donatation of two four silver cups to be competed for at surf-board and
outrigger canoe competitions.
The contests were
to be held in conjunction with arrival of Clark's cruise ship the Arabic
on two visits to Honolulu on the23rd January and 12th February, 1910.
Ford's inference
that suitable waves would be available for contests at Waikiki on these
specific dates was, at best, optimistic.
The tone of the
letter was casual; the donation of the cups was in response to "a very
pleasant call" from Alexander Hume Ford stating he was organising the
contests, the cups could be made in Honolulu to whatever design was appropriate,
and "advise me of the approximate cost."
Clark appears unfamiliar
with the club's name- two cups were to be engraved to " the Canoe
Club," the other two for "the Surf-Board Club."
In February 1909,
the Los Angeles branch of the A. A. U. banned George Freeth from amateur
swimming competition for "having taken money for fancy diving exhibitions
and services on the life saving crew."
The status of amateur
and professional sportsmen would be a regular topic of dispute in the early
years of the century, and Freeth did not get amateur accreditation until
August 1911.
With the approach of summer there were more "would-be Freeths" in the surf and by April the Outrigger Club, now with "a fine lot of officials are in charge," had completed the ladies' annex building in preparation for the season.
Meanwhile, Alexander
Hume Ford was diligently doing his utmost to promote the club and Hawai'i,
even if he was now located in New York.
In a letter published
in Honolulu in May, he cited a list of (his) achievements and important
contacts.
These included the
establishment of Clark contests with their silver cups, unprecedented exposure
in booklets advertising the Clark cruises, securing a supply of superior
fireworks for use on surfboards at night, and an upcoming article (with
photographs) to be printed in Collier's magazine and "a handsome
color cover" for Travel magazine.
Ford's article Riding
in the Surf, with three photographs by A.R. Gurrey Jr., was published
in Collier's National Weekly in August 1909, however, the colour
cover for June's Travel did not eventuate (surfboard riding finally
made the cover in 1937).
Most importantly,
Ford reported that the response to the Polynesian Olympia concept
was enthusiastic, even if it was now to be held in "the summer of 1912
or 1913."
Previously expressing
confidence in the Outrigger Club as capable of organising the event, Ford
now considered it may require his expertise and suggested that a recent
supporter, David Walker, an editor of Cosmopolitan, "may run
over with me to help promote this."
He had also made
contact with and "the best motion picture and color slide artist
in America," Howard Kemp, who he would bring with him on his next,
as yet unspecified, homecoming.
Ford recognised
his work at Waikiki was not complete, stating "I wish to remain in Honolulu
long enough to really put the Outrigger Club on its feet."
At the same time,
early May, the Alameda was preparing to leave Honolulu with
a party of bound for Seattle with exhibits for the Alaska-Yukon Exposition
of 1909.
The exhibits included
a koa outrigger canoe, intended for use on Lake Washington under the supervision
of Guy Rothwell, and surfing films by M. Bonine.
Among a variety of
bands and displays, the Elks-Parade in Los Angeles in July, the "Hawaiian
float depicted a surfriding scene and a quartet of Hawaiian singers rode
in the surf boat and sang their native songs."
At Waikiki, the
press noted a number of days of quality surf during the summer, and a number
of injuries.
On one occasion,
two solid swells from different directions created unsual surfing conditions,
forming "an angle at which the riders coming from Ewa and Waikiki directions
met."
A reporter commented
that the board riders had recently encroached on almost every part of the
beach, apparently "with the idea of 'showing off' the stunts which some
are learning."
In the first week
of August, Alexander Hume Ford notified Honolulu that he about to leave
New York for Hawaii, although travelling by via Europe and Asia, his arrival
was likely to be somewhat delayed.
Despite his absence,
the Outrigger Club was said to be "going along with a swing.,"
Ford's one page
article about surfing, with three photographs attributed to the author
(but possibly by A. J. Gurrey), Riding the Surf in Hawaii, was published
in August edition of Collier's Outdoor America magazine (alternatively
Collier's
National Weekly).
It saw Ford's influence
spread to Florida.
Inspired by the
Riding
the Surf article, Eugene Johnson immediately acquired
"what is called
a surf board" and, with his wife, spent an "afternoon riding the
waves" at Daytona Beach.
The Hawaiian Star
announced the publication of Dr V. E. Collins's Sea Bathing in Hawaii
in
September 1909.
An illustrated booklet,
its chapters included Certain Special Features ot Honolulu as
a Bathing Resort, Bathing for Pleasure, Bathing for Health,
Sun
Baths and Sand Baths, Honolulu as a Winter Bathing Resort, and
Surf
Riding.
The last, by Alexander
Hume Ford, is a reprint of his Riding the Breakers article of July
1908 in the Evening Bulletin.
A review by the
Bulletin in February 1910 commented "Taken all together Dr. Collins'
book is a valuable additon to the literature on Hawaii."
Ford confirmed in late September from New York that he would be back in Honolulu for the first of the Clark Cups in January 1910, and enquired "how is the club progressing.''
In October the Outrigger Club presented a number ofsurfing films and the vocal group, the Outrigger Club quintet, at a local theatre, the proceeds for the building fund.
Walter H. Biddell,
a member of the Bronte Life Saving Club, was on Oahu in November where
he gave life-saving demonstrations at the Healani Boat Club and
the Outrigger Club, where he was assisted by George Osborne.
Apart from his "expert"instruction,
he also demonstrated "Dr. Lee's'Torpedo-shaped Life Buoy."
In Sydney, Biddell's
numerous innovations were ignored, in particular the torpedo buoy was rejected
in favour of the Bondi club's belt and reel.
It would be adopted
by Califonian lifeguards and subesquently become a universal standard life
saving device, eventually replacing the belt and reel in Australia.
Biddell was not the
only Australian to visit Ohau during 1909.
"Bob" mailed
a postcard from Honolulu to a Miss Nell Lewis at 33 Hunter Street,
Hobart, Tasmania, on the 14th September,1909, with the imaginative message,
"Here
is the card I promised you."
The coloured postcard,
titled "95. Famous Surf Riders. Hawaiian Islands," was distributed
by Jas. Steiner at The Island Curio Company, Honolulu.
James Steiner's
sons were active Outrigger Canoe Club members and the eldest, Harry, was
a renowned board rider.
(Item detailed at ebay.com, viewed 14 September 2012.)
Hawaii, 1910.
In January, Alexander
Hume Ford returned to Honolulu, the press predicting "the Outrigger
Club of today won't be seen for dust when he gets to work on some of the
plans he intends to carry out in the future."
It is unlikely that
he came via Euope and Asia, as he had indicated earlier.
Before the end of
the week, Ford had unveiled his latest idea - a "glass-bottomed canoe
for use on the reefs."
He noted that similar
tourist attractions were available in Bermuda and California, and was sure
it would be a success at Waikiki (and Fiji and the New Hebrides), just
as soon as "the Outrigger club boys find an attractive
marine garden."
In the lead up to
the Clark Cup Contests, a "chowder" was attended by about fifty
Outrigger Club members, despite the bad weather.
The "spread"
was provided by Kenneth Brown, who, along with Alexander Hume Ford, Mr.
Scudde and others, spoke after the meal.
The Clark silver
cups, said to be worth $100, were to to held for a year and could be secured
by a competitor after three consecutive victories.
Several Waikiki
riders had mastered the headstand and some were now riding tandem- "in
some cases two individuals mount the same board and come in together."
The first Clark contest,
on 23rd January, was plagued by a small swell and a brisk off-shore wind
and the surf riding competitions postponed.
Once aware of the
poor conditions, many local spectators returned home, but the vistors provided
a large crowd and the organisers arranged some alternative events.
Fifteen competitors
lined up for a surfboard paddling race, which was won by Vincent Genoves.
Generally the tourists
appeared entertained, and despite the lack of waves they enjoyed the canoe
rides, bathing and the board riding efforts, especially those of "Miss
Pratt and her girl friends- Misses Ruth Soper and Coral Low."
As the afternoon
wore on, boredom got the better of two young members and they "got up
a poi fight at the clubhouse," to the amusement of the visitors.
The second Clark
Cup was scheduled for 12th February and preparations included the constuction
of an Outrigger Club float for the Floral Parade by Horomoto, the carpenter,
and "Charley," the caretaker, and the arrival of another film crew, led
by M. Bonvillain of Pathe Freres, Paris
Galvanized iron
piping for the erection of a stand in the surf from which Bonvillain was
to shoot film of the contest was provided by K.O. Hall & Son.
Bonvillain shot some
preliminary scenes of junior Outrigger members collecting their boards
from the grass houses and paddling out next to the Moana pier, these included
Lionel Steiner, Harold Hustace, Marston Campbell Jr. and "Duke."
The later was presumably
Duke Kahanamoku.
One the day of the
contest, "Duke Paua" was listed as a crew member of one of
two Outrigger Club canoes (the B team, the "Strawberry crew") competing
in the six paddle canoe race.
Harold Hustace issued
an open challenge for a short course race between any single canoe and
his surfboard.
The surfing judges
were to be Watson Ballentyne, Kenneth Winter and Guy Macfarlane.
With the postponement
of the first Clake cup events, at the second, the four cups were now to
to be awarded in seperate categories- canoes and on surfboards to "the
ones doing the best surfing stunts, to the girl, boy or man."
This abandoned the
original format of two cups, one for canoe and one for board surfing, coninciding
with the arrival of the two Clark's cruise ships.
The rule previously
advantaging the short board lobby was now overturned and the competition
was open to "every kind of surfboard."
Recognising the
failure of the first contest due to the lack of swell, the press reported
that "the man in charge of the tides" was confident that conditions
would be favorable.
A week before the
annual general meeting, those standing for positions in the Ourtrigger
Club were noted and the adgenda included the adoption of a constitution
and by-laws.
The main body of
the membership were adult members from town who supplied the majority of
the dues, but the organisers made an attempt to represent different
interest groups in the membership.
"Ten of the twenty-two
juniors under sixteen years of age are represented by a father on the proposed
board of directors.
The dozen army
members are represented ... by Major Hart, and the eight Waikiki members
by Kenneth Brown, as captain, while the nine members from Punahou College,
three of whom are Waikiki boys, are represented by the club collector,
Alfred Young."
The new bath house
had cost $800, but this was largely covered with contributions of $200
from the Ladies' Auxiliary, $90 from winning crews of the Outrigger Club,
$137 from Bonine's films, $50 from Allan Herbert, and the ongoing
sale of lockers at $5.
The evening before
the contest the 24ft steel structure was ferried out to the reef
on the largest available canoe, the crew , with their "hair parted in
the middle," accutely aware of the need to maintain balance.
Through design or
accident, a wave upset the load and the scaffold was deposited at "in
the midst of the big breakers."
Unfortunately, it
slipped sideways on the reef and only with great effort was Kenneth Brown
and his crew, particularly Neut Peterson, able to secure it correctly.
In addition to the
large platform on the reef errected for Bonvillain, a small one was to
be placed in front of the Moana Hotel.
The February contest
was also to include a swimming race between the teams of the Outrigger
Club and the Diamond Head Althetic Club.
will be participated
in by the following:
The Outrigger team
was Ben Vincent, Alfred Young, Cooper, Harry Steiner, Evans and "Rusty
Brown, captain.
The D. H. A. C.
was represented by D. Center, Glirdler, Duke, L. Cunha, C.
Oss, and Archie Robertson, captain.
Note that the same
report lists David Center and Duke Paua as crews of Outrigger canoes in
the six paddle race.
At this time, club
membership appears flexible, with some competitiors changing from club
to club or holding multiple memberships.
If the swell was
small for the first of the scheduled Clark contests, in February "the
Pacific Ocean absolutely refused to roll a wave of any size at all."
Worse, the Outrigger
laggoon had recently broke its banks, pouring polluted fresh water into
the surf.
The canoe races
were held and one Clark cup was awarded to the Outrigger Club A-team for
their win in the six-paddle race, and not for canoe surfing as originally
stipulated.
Captained by Kenneth
Brown, the press notes that the crew were "all haoles and they did remarkably
good work in defeating the Kams (Kamehameha Aquatic Club)."
Aware of the disappointment,
if not cynicism, of the visitors, A. H. Ford suggested they view Bonine's
surfing stunts films, then showing in town.
At the least, the
films were suitable evidence that surfriding was not a case of "you
should have been here last week."
At the AGM on 15th
February, Judge S. B. Dole was elected Outrigger club president; Alexander
Hume Ford, first vice president; Judge P. L. Weaver, second vice president;
and Kenneth Brown, captain.
Other committee
members included Alan Herbert, Ed. Dekum, Charles Hustace and D. ("Dad")
Center.
A proposal to allow
the payment of juniors for providing canoe surfing services was firmly
rejected; in the discussion some members, no doubt, refered to George Freeth's
difficulties in California.
While the local
press praised club's endorsement of the purity of amateur competition,
it alienated those members whose major source of income was working for
the various beach concessions and probably initiated the formation of the
fiercely competitive Hui Nalu in 1911.
Not long after the
Clark cruise had left Honolulu, a new party arrived from Columbia
Park on the West coast and were welcomed at Waikiki and initiated to canoe
and surfboard riding.
Upon returning home,
a member of the party noted "We did not have much success at it, but
it was great sport."
The Outrigger Club
now had over a hundred lockers and another grass house, previously used
in the Floral Parade, was converted into a bathouse for the girls.
At the end of February,
the Outrigger Club announced a surfing contest for "next Sunday" (?
March), to award the outstanding Clark cups.
On the 1st March,
Mon. Bonvillain and Alexander Hume Ford left to film the active volcano,
Kilauea, on the big island of Hawaii .
Ford was certain
that their efforts would surpass all previous footage.
On returning to
Waikiki, Mr. Ford was to complete arrangements for a special surf riding
exhibition to be filmed by Mons. Bonvillain, to be shot only "when weather
and sea are perfect."
In mid-March,
H. P. Wood and other representatives of the Hawaii Promotion Committee
departed for Atlantic City to present an "Hawaiian bazaar" on the
resort's famous board walk.
Stopping first at
Los Angeles, Mr. Wood intended to take George Freeth, and some surf boards,
to Atlantic City to give exhibitions in life saving and surf riding.
In April, Burton
Holmes presented his Our Own Hawaii lectures in California,
augmented with Bonine's surf riding films.
On the 10th June
the Outrigger club presented a summer carnival comprising a chowder, stage
performances, dances and illuminated canoe and surfboard riding.
A regatta in the
afternoon would include competition for the Clark cups.
In the "young
ladies" board riding contest, Josephine Pratt and Caroll Low shared
favoritism; both had performed admirably at the first Clarke cup event
back in February.
Three days later,
in a brief report, the press noted "Miss Josephine Pratt won the surf
board contest and one of the Clark cups."
The silver cup with
antler handles is inscribed "The Finest Amateur Girl Surfboard Rider
in the Outrigger Club.
Winner for 1910
- Josephine C. Pratt."
Meanwhile, H. P.
Wood wrote from Atlantic City, noting that the Hawaiian bazaar, featuring
a "huge surf board of heavy wood", was very popular, especially
"the
new pineapple juice."
The New York
Tribune reported that theHawaiians would ride the board at Atlantic
City beach, when the water became more temperate.
At a presentation
for the Atlantic City Business League, Wood showed films of Hawai'i, interspersed
with musical numbers by quintet of musicians and soloists.
The footage of surf
riding attracted particular attention and John Peterson, leader
of the Hawaii quintet, suggested to interested business men that a delegation
should visit Hawaii and acquire a supply of boards.
At a meeting of a
number of local athletic clubs on 27th June, James H. Fiddes, president
of the Hawaiian Association Football League, was delegated as the representive
to the Amateur Athletic Union conference in New York.
Those present included
H. Tuttle, of the Outrigger Club, and Alexander Hume Ford, representing
the Ocean Club and the Trail and Mountain Club.
Another Outrigger
carnival was planned fot the 4th July, with another attempt to successfully
hold the Clark cups but now with an additional award, the.Sperlight
(spelling?) cup, for a six paddle canoe race.
As at the Great
White Fleet regatta of 1908, crews of visiting ships were invited to compete,
in this case from the Chattanooga, the Cleveland and
"the
Belgian training ship."
The paddling races,
including between the visiting crews, were completed, but when it came
to competing for the Clark Cups, whereas previous contests had suffered
from a lack of swell, at this carnival there was "a surf running
that is seldom equalled at Waikiki."
The officials attempted
to run the canoe contest, but most canoes were swamped and only Marston
Campbell, Jr., successfully rode one wave.
As the rules stipulated
that the contest was scored on three waves, this, and the boardriding events,
were again postponed.
In August, the Promotion
Committee considered several poster designs for the upcoming floral parade.
The submitted works
were considered inappropriate, the press in stronger words, described them
as "the three atrocities."
One member suggested
an alternate design based on the image of a surf rider, "which has been
displayed here as an advertisement," which was well received by the
committee.
This was, presumably,
the photograph of Duke Kahanamoku, taken and by A. R. Gurrey Jr. and used
in promoting his photographic studio, see below.
At the end of August,
the Honolulu press anounced that George Freeth had recently received a
medal from Congress in honor of saving the lives of seven Japanese
fishermen off the coast of California on 16th December 1908.
The report stated
that his mother and sisters received "the congratulations of their many
friends" and since working as a life-guard at Venice "he had nearly
fifty lives to his credit."
A.new 20 foot koa
canoe arrived at Waikiki from Kona in September 1910.
Purchased by the
Magoon boys, it was "deftly constructed without a nail, koa pegs having
been substituted."
In mid September,
George Freeth arrived back in Honolulu and he took a water polo team, variously
his "combination" or his "seals," to play a team
of soldiers at Fort Shafter, winning 7-0.
A. R. Gurrey Jr.
published his widely reproduced company logo featuring Duke Kahanamoku
surfing at Waikiki in the Evening Bulletin of 23rd November,
and two weeks later the newspaper announced the release of Alexander Hume
Ford's Mid-Pacific Magazine.
On 164 glossy pages
with halftone photographs, it represented a "high standard in the printer's
art" and it was claimed that it would appear simultaneously in London,
Boston, New York, San Francisco and Sydney.
During 1910 Ella
Wheeler Wilcox published The New Hawaiian Girl; a short play in
verse set in Hawai'i with colour plates by John Prendergast
Mrs. Ella W. Wilcox
was noted as one of the earliest supporters of the Outrigger Club (Evening
Bulletin, 14th March 1908).
Illustration 2 featured
two surfboard riders.
1911
In May, the Hawaiian
Gazette's commentator, The By Stander, wrote a humorous overview
of Alexander Hume Ford's activitities, focusing on his current voyage to
Maui.
A sample:
"Crossing the
Equator Club is formed with Ford as the Grand Equinox.
He says the equator
is an imaginary line and may just as well be imagined here as anywhere
else.
Announces a magazine
story entitled 'Lines I Have Crossed,' by that eminent writer H. F. Alexander."
In H. M. Ayres' poem, The lid is off at Waikiki, published in the Hawaiian Star on 16th May , "Surf-boards are now in large demand."
At Waikiki in July, Ted Cooper introduced aquaplaning, being towed on his surf-board by a line from the Heideman boys' launch.
At the end of the
month, Ira Canfield donated another silver cup to the Outrigger Club, for
surf-boarding novices.
Around the same
time, the Hui Nalu, described as "Waiklki rowers and swimmers, composed
chiefly of Hawalians," was admitted to the local branch of the A.A.U.
This new club was largely an offshoot or a faction of the Outrigger
Club, those previously identified as Outrigger members included Duke Kahanamoku,
Vincent
Genoves, Kenneth Winter and Curtis Hustace.
On the 5th August,
the Hui Nalu added twelve new members, making a total of 27.
E. K. Miller, W.
H. King and R. W. Foster were elected as their delegates to the A.A.U.
The establishment
of the Outrigger Club, with its prime focus on contests in the surf at
Waikiki, allowed the wide program of events that previously comprised the
earlier Waikiki Regattas to be diversified.
The rowing and sailing
races moved to the more suitable flat water of the habour and the swimming
events, now under the auspices of the A.A.U., to the slips between
the docks where the length of the course could be effectively measured.
The program for the
upcoming aquatic meet was released on the 8th August, initially to be at
the Bishop slip.
As the dock was
being used commercially on the day of the event, it was moved to the Alakea
slip.
.
Entrants from the
various clubs included Geo. Freeth and L. Cunha (Healani); D. Center
(Myrtle); and D. P. Kahanamoku and Vincent Genoves (Hui Nalu).
Freeth's eligibility
was questioned, but after meeting with John Soper, his application to join
the A.A.U. was accepted.
The program did
not include a swimming team from the Outrigger Club, one reporter suggesting
that "the members got cold feet as soon as the entry list of the Hui
Nalus was scanned."
It later transpired
that the club had intended to enter a team, but due to misadventure, if
not "treachery", the correct documents were not lodged before the official
closing time.
Circumstantial evidence
suggested the involvement of the Hui Nalu in the matter.
While the press
report suggested that disgruntled Outrigger members might console themsleves
with that evening's moonlight dance in the club's lanai, elsewhere on the
same page it was noted that the Hui Nalu club was "at present giving
more attention to swimming than dancing."
Any questionable pre-contest manourves by the Hui Nalu proved to be
unnecessary, and the club emphatically dominated the
swimming races on the 12th August.
In excellent conditions,
the "water was as calm as a mill pond," Vincent Genoves won the
440, the 880 yards and one mile and Duke Kahanamoku won the 50, 100 and
220 yards events.
In addition, Kahanamoku
broke world record times for the 50 and 100 yards.
In a sudden leap
to international fame, the press noted that at the time Duke was "not
well known among the people of Honolulu, but is remembered by many tourists
who have visited Hawaii and taken a dip in the surf of Waikiki."
As Hawai'i's first
event sanctioned by the A.A.U., considerable care was taken to correctly
measure the course before the carnival and the events were timed by several
officials.
Due to some cynicism
as to the validity of these record breaking swims, the course was re-measured
the following day by a surveyor.
It was later reported
that it was, in fact, longer by one and a half feet; however the records
were not officially recognised at the time.
In an entertaining
display, George Freeth won the Fancy Diving in a tight competition with
B.K. Fuller.
In a regular column,
Honolulu
Newsletter published in the Maui News in August, Oscar Brenton
reviewed the failure of the Outrigger Club to enter a team in the recent
swim meet.
He implied that
the club, under the direction of Ford, had alienated a number of junior
members with its rigorous interpretation of amateur status.
This probably stemed
from the rejection of a motion to allow the payment of juniors for providing
canoe surfing services, passed at the AGM on 15th February 1910.
As Duke Kahanamoku
"happens
to get his livelihood making surfboards and occassionally taking tourists
canoing at so much a head", under the rule he was unable to compete
"for
the Clark cups, or anything else under the auspices of the Outriggers."
It is likely that
this dispute over the definition of amateur status within the Outrigger
Club significantly contributed to the formation of the Hui Nalu in mid
1911.
Twelve months later,
the reasons for the defection of some Outrigger members, notably Duke Kahanamoku,
to the Hui Nalu were still considered a mystery by most in Honolulu.
In July 1912,
a reporter for the Honolulu Star-Bulletin stated "many know,
but more do not and the writer of this is with the latter."
With an element
of regret, the article noted that it "would have been a good thing from
the point of view of the promoter of tourist travel to the islands" for
the international reputations of Duke and the Outrigger Club to have been
combined.
In eary September,
Charles Allbright and A. J. Stout rescued two men from drowning with
their "Hawaiian surf boards" at Long Beach, California.
The press claimed
that this was the "first time in ... history" such a rescue was
completed in California.
Visiting from Hawai'i,
Allbright was a Honolulu newspaperman and Stout was formerly the manager
of the Seaside Hotel at Waikiki and identified in the earliest report of
the acquistion of the Outrigger Club site in 1908.
They were entertaining
a crowd of beach-goers with their surfing skills when they were alerted
to two bathers in difficulty.
Their koa wood surfboards
were "much larger than those used on this coast being six feet
long, three inches thick and eighteen inches wide," suggesting that
some locals were surf riding with small prone boards.
The regatta day planned
for the 12th September was to take place in Honolulu harbour for a series
of races for barges, ship's boats, shore boats, whaleboats, and modern
and old canoes.
There were also
sailing races for boats and canoes.
A barge race was
competed by groups of local government workers as Federal, Territorial,
or County Employees.
Visitng crews included
those of the Resolute, the Patterson, and the Robert
Searle.
Competing clubs
included the Healani Boat Club, the Myrtle Boat Club, the Puunene
Athletic Club, the K. A. C. Seniors, the Outrigger Club, and the Hui Nalu.
The Hui Nalu secured
the A, Prince Kuhio's canoe, previously used by the Kona paddlers,
to compete in the six and four-paddle canoe races.
Crew members included
lngworth, Duke Kahanamoku, O'Sullivan, Archie Robertson, and Vincent Genoves.
They won both canoe
events, placing ahead of the Kamehameha's and the Outrigger in the six
paddle, and beating the K. A. C. Seniors in the four-paddle race.
The event was well
attended with most support for the Healanis and the Myrtles, but
there were also a significant presence of the "black and gold" for
the Puunene Athletic Club and the "blue" of the Hui Nalu.
Towards the end of
September, the Outrigger Club announced plans for fundraising carnival
to include contests in the surf for the Clark trophies and the Canfield
Malihini Cup.
This contest may
have been postponed, and another event was planned for 4th November.
Prizes for the November
contest were to included cups, dance tickets, steering paddles and surfboards.
The paddles were
rated in value; koa, spruce, pine, and then "N. W."
Similarly, boards
were awarded in order of spruce for first place, then pine, "N. W. board,
fancy," and
"plain."
It is unclear what
"N.W."
indicates.
The Clark cup contestants
were to be taken "out to the big surf with their boards" in a six-paddle
canoe manned by committee members.
Senor Igancio de
Arena, the recently appointed Spanish consul, arrived in Honolulu at the
end at of September.
de Arena spent several
years in Hawai'i before returning to Spain, reportedly with an Hawai'ian
surfboard and a copy of A.J. Gurrey Jr.'s The Surfriders of Hawaii.
Each book comprised
a varied selection of hand printed photographs and some text, published
in conjunction with Gurrey's photographic studio in Honolulu, circa 1911-1914.
Results for the Outriggers'
November carnival noted that the "surfboard race" was won by Malcolm
Tuttle, followed by Elbert Tuttle and Frank Winter.
All the entries
appear to be confined to Outrigger members and there is no mention of the
awarding of the Clark or the Canfield cups.
The autumn of 1911
provided large waves at Waikiki.
At the end of September
canoe and board riders rode surf, said by experienced elders, to be
"higher today than at any time in the last nine years."
Another substantial
swell arrived in November, which persisted for several days and at one
point was large enough to keep the local fishing fleet at home.
1912
The New Year saw
steps to secure funds to send Duke Kahanamoku to the mainland to
take part in the Olympic trials.
About $230 was already
collected but the trip would require at least $1000, and "an extra five
hundred wouldn't hurt a little bit."
The reporter noted
the need of a manager/coach to avoid "the wiles and
wrinkles of important amateur athletic competitions" and warned that
suggestions by George Freeth that Duke seek employment in California may
prove detrimental to his amateur status.
In January 1912,
"Breastsroke",
the swimming correspondent for Wellinton's (NZ) Evening Post, commented
on "a number of photographs in one of the New Zealand illustrated papers
showing bathers using surf boards at New Brighton beach."
The surfers were
said to ride "lying, kneeling, standing" and the reporter emphasised
the potential danger of "a board about five feet long, and an inch thick,
weighted with an eleven-stone man, hurtling down towards the small of some
unwary bather's back."
The article also
noted that in Sydney, several bathers had beeen "badly bruised by careless
breaker-shooters" and "members of the lifesaving clubs check the
practice as far as possible."
The "New Zealand
illustrated paper" article is yet to be located.
The Hui Nalu Club
arranged a dance on Saturday, January 27, at the Young roof garden
Tickets were $4
each, the proceeds going to the Duke traveling fund.
At the time swimming
was the club's main focus, the press noting the "Hui Nalu is not a rowing
club at present."
Meanwhile the promotion Committee confirmed
that 1913 poster for the Foral parade will incorporate "a surf board
rider coming in on the crest of a wave."
In the first week
of February, Frederick Shaffer, a crewman of the visiting cruiser Colorado,
drowned at Waikiki while attempting to rescue a woman in difficulties.
Shaffer's companion
and the woman were in turn rescued by the Outrigger's youngest and most
recent member, thirteen-year-old Ralph Williams, Alexander Hume Ford
and Duke Kahanamoku.
Williams and Kahanamoku
used their surfboards and Ford had grabbed in the smallest outrigger canoe
available.
Despite an extensive
search by Hui Nalu members and a search party raised from the Colorado,
Shaffer's body was not recovered that day.
Ford later noted
that the Waikiki boys had regularly performed rescues, " the Hustace
boys with a score of life savings."
During the following
week, Duke Kahanamoku and Vincent Genoves gave a free swimming exhibition
in the Bishop slip before about 200 (?) spectators.
Although neither produced record breaking times, they gave respectable
performances under less than ideal conditions.
At Waikiki, in a
reponse to calls for an improvements to beach safety, The Outrigger Club
announced its members would man a patrol during the tourist season.
Duke Kahanamoku and
Vincent Genoves, accompanined by Lew G. Henderson and "Dude" Miller departed
Honolulu on the 7th February to compete in the U.S. trials for the 1912
Olympic games.
At the dockside,
members of "the Hui Nalu gave their club yell, a quintette club
sang 'Aloha Oe,' Berger's band struck up 'Auld Lang Syne.'"
In February, the
liner Cleveland visted Honolulu and the passengers entertained by
the Promotion Committee, the Public Service Association and the Outrigger
Club at Waikiki.
Arrangements for
Ell Crawford to bring a native group from Kailhi to populate the grass
hosues and demonstrate surf sports failed to materialise, but an urgent
call to the Oahu College saw Marston Campbell Jr. and his fellow students
present a suitable exhibition.
The swell was large
enough to discourage the Kamehameha Aquatic Club boys from bringing
their canoes around from Kalihi, but " the Outrigger youngsters
made nothing of toying with the biggest waves in sight with their smallest
surfboards."
Music was provided
by Ernest Kant's quintet and Crawford oversaw the preparation traditional
poi, taro and pig.
The press anounced
that Theophilus, "the revenue cutter Thetis' pet bear," would appear
at the Waikiki Inn on the 2nd March.
A remarkable list
of promised feats included riding on a surf-board, saying his prayers,
chewing tobacco and putting "on and .. off his own bathing drawers!"
The bear, probably
obtained during the cutter's service in the Northern Pacific, was also
said to
"catch and devour a live chicken" and "play with the
children."
The Hawaiian Star
printed
a letter on 12th March from Dr. A. E. Friesel to his brother, a local athlete,
with an account of the Olympic trials in Chicago.
He noted that Genoves
was severely disadvantaged by the short course tank which required numerous
turns, losing
"one and one-half to two yards on every turn," and
failed to qualify.
The tank was less
of a problem for Duke Kahanamoku, in "the finals he won the fifty yards
and the 100 yards by about two feet each" and he was selected for the
U.S.A. team to swim in Stockholm.
Emphasizing Hawai'i's
status as a U.S. territory, "Duke was brought out wrapped in the American
flag."
Friesel requested
that his brother send him an autographed copy of "one of those
large photos showing him (Duke) standing on his head on a surf board"
to be framed for his office.
On the same day the
newspaper also noted the initial court proceedings in the case of Mrs.
Grace A. Fendler versus Richard Tully.
In a long running
action, she claimed Tully's successful play The Bird of Paradise
had
copied plot elements, including surfboard riding, from her manuscript,
In
Hawaii.
Initially settled
in Fendler's favour, the case was later reversed on appeal.
The touring production
of The Bird of Paradise
was noted for popularisng Hawai'ian
ukelele music on the mainland, and Tully's play was subsequently filmed,
with brief surfing sequences, in 1932 and 1951.
On the mainland,
Kahanamoku competed in a series of competitions and, as of 22nd March,
he had won every race he entered, with the exception of one event at the
Pittsburgh Athletic Club where he retired from the race with cramps,
Described as 21
years old, six foot and 185 pounds, in particular, the press noted "his
style is different from anything ever seen before in this country."
In interviews Duke
accredited his swimming success to his surf riding experience at Waikiki.
Despite the years
of strenuous publicity by A.H. Ford to give the Outrigger Club an international
profile, its fame was now rivaled by "the Hui Nalu ('Ocean Wave' Club)
of Hawaii."
At a meeting of the
Hawaiian board of A.A.U. met on the 25th March to discuss the upcoming
swimming championships.
The report identified
the Healanis, Myrtles, Puunenes and Hui Nalu as interested clubs, apparently
the Outrigger Club was not considered as currently operating as a swimming
club.
The Thetis bear was scheduled for a second appearance in the Waikiki surf on the 11th May, the spectators "requested to equip themselves with a plentiful supply of peanuts."
In mid May, Waikiki
experienced a large swell and "an unusually large number of surf board
riders were in evidence," while on shore, a benefit dance was
arranged by the Hui Nalu Club to raise funds for Duke Kahanamoku's trip
to the Olympic Games in Stockholm.
Set for Saturday,
May 25, it was to be held at the Outrigger Club "and tickets will be
sold at 50 cents each."
The Honolulu branch of the Y.M.C.A. offered handicraft classes for local boys in June 1912; projects included making "boats, surf boards, aeroplane models and useful articles."
Vincent Genoves had
returned to Honolulu by the 13th June, where he won three races at the
second annual A.A.U. swimming meet.
Although considered
a successful event with about a thousand spectators, "no world records
were smashed."
Other well known
surfer-swimmers included Marston Campbell. Jr., Curtis Hustace, D.
Center, and Lawrence and George Cunha.
The teams competition
was won by the Hui Nalu, followed by the Henlauis, the Myrtles, and Punahou.
As expected, the
Outrigger Club was not represented.
After a complex series
of events and negotiations, Duke Kahanamoku won the 100 meters swimming
finals at Stockholm on the 10th July, 1912.
After setting an Olympic record of 62 2-5 seconds in the heats
(ratified after a protest from Germany), Kahanamoku and the other American
qualifiers, failed to appear for their semi-final due to confusion about
the schedule.
After meetings with the Olympic officials and the consent of the qualified
competitors from Australasia (a
combined team from Australia and New Zealand) and Germany,
a repercharge heat was run and two Americans, Duke and Kenneth
Hustagh, advanced to the final.
Kahanamoku placed
first with Cecil Healy, representing Australasia, second; Hustagh was third,
followed by Germany's K. Bretting and W. Ramme.
Australia's champion,
William Longworth, although qualifying for the final, was too ill
to compete.
The complications
in running the event were compounded by difficulties in communication and
it wasn't until six days later that the Honolulu Star-Bulletin was
able to announce Duke's victory and world record.
Apart from an outstanding
athletic performance, Duke's "style" also made an impression.
During the games,
James H. Randall, the San Francisco Call's correspondent in Stockholm
observed that he was " the talk of the town today, not only for what
he does, but for the easy, nonchalant way in which he does it."
Furthermore, the
generous approval by the Australasian and German competitors to a rescheduling
of the semi-finals was highlighted by Dagens Nyheter, the Olympic
Games' special paper.
On 10th July, it
stated
"the whole world of sport will ring with applause for your sporting
action in permitting the semi-flnal of the 100 metres to be re-swum."
Apart from Cecil
Healy's extensive career as a competitive swimmer he was also a leading
member of the Manly Surf Club, one of the four clubs then operating on
Manly Beach, Sydney's closest equivalent to Waikiki.
Healy was, no doubt,
aware of the surfboarding exploits of Tommy Walker of the neighbouring
Seagulls Club and of Duke's surfing reputation..
As such, he had
a bond with Kahanamoku that was rare in Stockholm, and later was one of
the principal figures in issuing an invitation for Duke to tour of Australia.
In the southern
summer of 1941-1915, he reported on the Kahanamoku tour as a journalist
for The Referee and was directly involved in the Sydney surfboard
riding exhibitions.
Following his success
at Stockholm, the Hawaiian Gazette reported on the19th July that
Duke Kahanamoku would tour Europe and the United States, before a scheduled
return to Hawai'i on the 23rd August.
Meanwhile,
preparations were underway to honour him, "the gift probably to take
the form of a house and lot, in addition to a purse."
It printed selected
excerpts from some of Duke's letters back home and suggested that he would
return via "Atlantic City where the crowds will see him on the surf
board."
Duke Kahanamoku arrived
in Atlantic City on 10th August, New York's The Evening World reporting
that "he brought with him two of the surf riding boards used
by the Hawaiians."
The boards were
forewarded from Honolulu directly to the East coast, possibly to the care
of George Macfarlane or the Henderson family, awaiting his arrival.
The article also
noted that "the City Commisson forbids the use of boards in the ocean,
but has granted him permission to employ the surf runners two hours a day."
Atlantic City was
not the only civic authority to restrict surfboard use; in March 1912,
the NSW Government enacted an ordinance giving local inspectors
power
"to order bathers to refrain from surf shooting, whether
with or without a surfboard, where the practice was likely to endanger
or inconvenience other bathers."
Both cases indicate
that these regulations were in response to the activities of local surfboard
enthusiasts.
Furthermore, another
report of Duke surfing at Atlantic City noted that his board was "longer
than the boards seen here."
Of course, this was
not the first appearance of Hawai'ian surfboard riders on the East coast.
Kahanamoku was preceeded
by a group of surfing musicians, "the Hawaiian quintette", who were
booked to perform at Atlantic City and Ashbury Park, N.J., in July 1910.
At Ashbury Park,
their board riding, "skimming on the crest of a wave for hundreds of
feet", was admired and copied by some locals, with limited success.
Duke later wrote
to his father that he was "having a great time ... riding the surf ...
thousands of people were on the Million Dollar Pier."
The New York
Herald of 16th August reported that his appearances in Atlantic City
had immediate impact.
It noted that "amateur
surf riders here ... have provided themselves with surf boards," presumably
larger designs than those previously used, and "a new impetus
has been given to surf ridlng and boys and men may be seen at any
hour of the day when the tide is just right for the fun trying their skill
striding in with the waves."
His upcoming
itinerary included appearances at Ocean City, New York, Philadelphia, and
San Francisco.
Interviewed at the
end of September, following his return to Sydney from the 1912 Olympic
Games, the manager of the swimming team, Mr. A. C. W. Hill, raised the
prospect of a tour of Australia by "the brilliant American sprint swimmer
Duke Paoa Kahanamoku."
This was only one of the numerous invitations to Duke following his
Olympic success and the Australian tour would not eventuate until the southern
summer of 1914-1915.
Edward Rayment, the
director of the New South Wales Immigration and Tourist Bureau, visited
Hawai'i in October 1912 on his way to London to relieve Percy Hunter, who
was to return to Sydney, via Honolulu, "arriving here during February
and remaining for carnival week."
He was given the
standard tourist treatment including an "afternoon surfing in canoes
and watching the Hawaiian boys and Outrigger members disporting themselves
on the surfboards."
At the Outrigger
Club, Rayment met with Duke Kahanamoku and reiterated Hill's invitation
to visit to Australia.
Later that month
in Sydney, Hill reported to a meeting of the NSW Association that he had
approached several international champions in Stockholm about their availability
to tour Australia, and Duke Kahanamoku was the most enthusiastic.
The association
resolved to apply to the Australian Swimming Union for power to extend
a formal invitation.
Although the invitation
was for a series of swimming exhibitions, "Merman," the natatorial
correspondent for the Daily Telegraph, commented:
"Should Kahanamoku
come to Sydney (he is claimed to be the world champion surf-shooter in
Honolulu), he will surely astonish local surfers with his evolutions in
the breakers."
A group of cabinet
members from Washington visited Hawai'i in early October to observe the
completion of dredging works in the construction of Pearl Harbor.
Their itinerary
included the regular visit to Waikiki and canoe ride, unfortunately marred
on this occassion by a lack of swell.
Meanwhile, the Promotion
Committee approved the design of a German poster artist for 1913
Mid Pacific Carnival and Eighth Annual Floral Parade.
It represented "a
powerful Hawaiian riding the surf ... the power and curl of the wave
is force fully expressed."
The theme was consistent
with "the surf-riding reputation which Duke Kahanamoku has made world
renowned."
There were two sizes,
small cards with the surf-riding figure and a limited number larger posters
with a picture of Kahanamoku.
A reporter confidently
predicted that "they are of an artistic merit that assures their being
kept as souvenirs."
In November, the
Hopkinsville
Kentuckian detailed the contents of that month's edition of Wide
World Magazine, including one titled The Surfboard Riders of Hawaii.
The article was said to describe surfing as "the
king of summer sports" and reported that "the white man has taken
to it with enthusiasm and bids fair to beat the native at his own game."
Similar in title to A.J.
Gurrey Jr.'s The Surfriders of Hawaii, published around this
time, the article was accredited to H.
J. Shepstone.
In March 1913, New
Zealand's Otautau Standard and Wallace County Chronicle reprinted
selections from Shepstone's article, subtitled A Sport That Beats Flying,
however not containing the quotes as related by the HopkinsvilleKentuckian.
As yet, no copy
of this edition of the magazine is known to have been located, although
a copy of the article is currently being prepared.
In the same month,
San Francisco's The Argonaut, published a story by H.W. Miller titled
A
Futile Struggle- The Tragedy of a Voyage Under a Tropical Sun.
It opens as an ill
or injured "haole" is paddled by two "Kanakas" in an outrigger
canoe towards Ohau.
Meanwhile at Waikiki,
the "usual Sunday crowd of bathers assembled at Waikiki ... the
sky was a flawless blue ... sea was as clear as crystal."
The "surf had
never been better"
and was enjoyed by many canoe and surfboard riders, some performing head
or hand stands.
They included the"eel-like
Harold Hustace, as brown as any Hawaiian, ... with his surf-board, and
that bronze Apollo, Duke Kahanamoku, later to win enduring fame at Stockholm
for his prowess in the water."
Despite the efforts
of the crew in the outrigger canoe, the Waikiki locals fail to recognise
their difficulty, and when the canoe is swamped in the surf, the three
men perish.
The story, lightly
edited, was reprinted under the title Three Black Dots by Northern
Star (Lismore, NSW) in late July 1913 and Queensland's Chronicle
and North Coast Advertiser a week later.
Preparations were well under way in Honolulu in December for the Mid-Winter
Carnival, the program was to feature "the Landing of Kamehameha the
Great", accompanied by a large fleet of canoes, at Waikiki.
He was to arrive
on a traditional double war-canoe, requiring Prince Kalanianaole's canoe
and one other to be brought from Kailua, Hawaii.
At Waikiki, they
were to be "lashed together by a Hawaiian who did the same for those
in the Bishop Museum."
Other events included
surf riding and canoe races, in particular "Duke Kahanamoku will be
a star attraction la the surfing and swimming performances."
(The station chose August to begin honoring James Matthias Jordan Jr.'s introduction of surfing to the Atlantic coast. He received a surfboard from an uncle in 1912.)
1913
On 29th January 1913,
the Honolulu Star-Bulletin was quick to pour scorn on a recent story
in the oppostion Advertiser, later widely repeated, proported to
record "Duke Kahanamoku's terrific battle with a high-powered, man-eating
eel."
Under the sub-heading
"Quick,
Officer, the Padded Cell," the HS-B reporter interviewed
the Duke who confirmed that there was a confrontation, that is
"Duke
was nipped by a small eel when he stuck a finger into a crevice in the
coral."
The original story
was repeated in the Long Beach Press on 29 January, 1913.
The HS-B
also included an interview from the San Francisco Call of the recent
return from Hawai'i of "the winner of the Call's girl wage earner beauty
contest," who included Duke Kahanamoku amoungst several gentlemen with
whom she was romantically linked.
At the beginning
of February The Salt Lake Tribune published an extensive and flambouyant
article on Duke Kahanamoku who "Made the Fastest Swimmers of the World
Look Foolish at the Stockholm Olmypiad, Was Reared in the Surf of His Island
Home and as a Boy Dodged Sharks for Sport."
It was accredited
to Jim Nasium, "Copyright by The Philadelphia. Inquirer Co.", and was reproduced
in several other mainland papers.
Accompanied by two
photographs of Duke, there was also a dramatic surfboard riding illustration,
copied from the cover of John R. Mustek's Hawaii - Our New Possesion,
published in 1897.
Two weeks later the Honolulu Star-Bulletin reproduced selections from the Nasium article, identifying it as "a Sunday story in the Philadelphia Enquirer," and made light of the stories of shark dodging, the headline reading "Hold on tight, This story makes Duke Kahanamoku's giant eel look like a bait worm."
On the 21st February,
the Mid-winter Carnival celebrations featured "the Landing of Kamehameha"
at Waikiki beach, although, due the the late arrival of a party of tourists
aboard the Mongolia, the floatilla's arrival was somewhat delayed.
The day was an declared
an "undoubted success" and the crowd numbered in the thousands,
however the other sports planned for the celebrations were abandonded as
"the
crush of people was so great, the policing: facilities so inadequate."
Despite the best
efforts of John Wise, the pagent organiser, a large number of participants
failed to arrive and their role were hurredly filled by the Hui Nalu who
manned seventeen canoes and the Outrigger members, "with a coating
of grease paint, a malo and a flashing paddles," provided a further
twelve canoes for the flotilla that numbered about forty craft.
There was a considerable
swell running that morning, and four of the smaller canoes were swamped
in "the big breakers" on the outside the reef.
In March 1913, New Zealand's Otautau Standard and Wallace County Chronicle reprinted selections from The Surfboard-Riders of Hawaii by H. J. Shepstone, from the November 1914 edition of Wide World Magazine.
Towards the end of
May, at the request of a visiting team of Australian cricketers, Duke Kahanamoku
gave his first swimming exhibition since his return to Honolulu.
Held off the Moana
Hotel pier, the event was a casual affair with no starters or timers, Duke
demonstrating his style and skill in company of a number of locals.
Before starting,
he posed for more than half an hour at the request of tourists and local
photographers.
Afterwards Duke
took some of the visitors from "Kangarooland" into the surf in one
of three large canoes manned by the Hui Nalu, while other club members
gave exhibitions of surf riding.
The cricketers expressed
a desire to see the champion swimmer compete in Australia, a prospect that
was regularly canvassed in their national press.
In Honolulu on the
17th June, a morning paper (The Adveriser ?) reported
that Duke Kahanamoku was considering an offer to appear in vaudeville,
reputedly at $1000 a week.
The claims were
emphatically rejected by Duke in the afternoon edition of the Honolulu
Star-Bulletin, and he made it clear that there was no prospect of him
turning professional.
He indicated that his prime focus was on the upcoming swimming events
in California, and the day before he had collected "his
special surfing board"
from Waikiki in
anticipation of riding it at Long Beach.
Duke also expressed
an ambition to surf on the beaches of Florida, but noted few people visit
the resorts there "in the baking hot summer months and the big hotels
are virtually closed until late in the fall."
In a review for the
Honolulu
Star-Bulletin on 18th June, Ernest N. Smith was scathing about the
many inaccuracies and misrepresentations in "a moving picture panorama
of the Hawaiian Islands" recently shown in San Francisco.
In particular, Smith,
clearly knowledgable about surfboard riding, noted:
"The Bonine pictures
of the natives surfing were among the most interesting and best-llked,
and I discovered the surfing trips were much longer than in the old days,
the natives 'riding the boards in from two or three miles off shore.'
The surf-riding
on boards was described as being very dangerous and many were kilied at
the sport."
On the same day,
a team of seven Hawaiian swimmers, including Duke Kahanamoku, left for
San Francisco on the Wilhelmina to compete at the Sutro Baths on
the 4th July.
Led by William T.Rawlins,
their arrival was eagerly anticipated and there were suggestions that further
swimming events may be arranged in Los Angles and surf riding at Long Beach,
"where
the breakers usually are heavy and suitable for this kind of sport."
Before competing at the Los
Angeles Athletic Club on the evening of the 11th July, at
the
invitation of Pete Lenz, captain of the Long Beach high school swimming
team, the visiting Hui Nalu squad spent several hours at Long Beach.
Here, "they couldn't
resist the surf and the Duke gave a thrilling exhibition of surfboard riding"
before a crowd of "thousands."
After the day's
surfing, Kahanamoku easily won his swimming events that night.
On "one of the
most beautiful days of summer," two excursion trains organised by the
Tacoma Elks and containing nearly 1,400 persons, traveled to Moclips on
the 20th July for an "afternoon on the soft, velvety sands of the ocean
beach."
"The raptures
of the ocean surf carried away the crowds with frank enthusiasm" and
"the
Quinault Indians gave an exhibition of surf riding in a big Indian canoe."
Manager Rawlins and
the majority of the Hui Nalu team; H. W. D. King, Lukelai Kaupiko, D. Keaweamahi,
H. Kahele, C. W. Hustace, Frederick Wilhelmn and J. B. Lightfoot; returned
to Honolulu from California aboard the Sierra on the 21st July.
Duke Kahanamoku
was to return "in about a week" and Robert Kaawa was reported to
have "yielded to the lure of the footlights and will go into vaudeville."
Rawlins detailed
Duke Kahanamoku's success in California to the local press.
Apart from his expected
victories, he won the the fifty-yard breast-stroke " though he has never
practiced that style" and in a race against California's Ludy Langer
over three-quarters of a mile, despite not contesting the distance before,
he bested Langer's record by two and a half minutes.
During the tour,
Curtis Hustace and Duke gave a surfriding exhibition at Venice where "Hustace
came in on the surf -board standing on his head about twenty times, and
twenty thousand people went wild."
The San Francisco
Call adveritised Duke Kahanamokus's final mainland appearances would
be at the Casino Natatorium, Santa Cruz, on the 26th and 27thJuly .
The event was said
to include "all the crack swimmers and divers of the coast, in races,
high and fancy diving, surf riding."
A lightly edited version of H.W. Miller's story A Futile Struggle- The Tragedy of a Voyage Under a Tropical Sun, first published in San Francisco's The Argonaut in November 1912, was reprinted under the title Three Black Dots by Northern Star (Lismore, NSW) in late July 1913 and Queensland's Chronicle and North Coast Advertiser a week later.
The Maui News
of the 9th August reported another invitation for Duke Kahanamoku to tour
Australia with an offer "to pay the expenses of Duke, his manager and
trainer."
It was suggested
that a tour could start with within a month.
Furthermore, the
article commented on the swimming skills of the Solomon Islanders, "where
the great Wickman came from," particularly the women, of whom
it was said "would swim circles around anything Honolulu has so far
produced."
Crucially, demonstrating
the dispersion of the "crawl" style across the Pacific, they noted "the
famous Duke kick is native, not to say indiginous (sic), to that
section of the world and the women all use it."
The "great Wickam"
was Alick Wickham, originally from the British Solomon islands, who was
a leading competitor in the Sydney swimming fraternity and was often accredited
with developing the "Australian Crawl" with the Cavill family in the late
1890s.
In 1949, Wickham
was accredited by C.B. Maxwell with shaping the first surfboard in Australia
around the turn of the century.
She noted that the
board was not a success- it was hand carved from a piece of driftwood found
on Curl Curl beach and sank.
During 1903 he set
a world record for 50 yards and equalled the Australian record for 100
yards at Farmer's Rushcutter Bay Baths, Sydney.
In 1905 Wickham
led the "Manly Ducks", a team that "performed exhibitions of
fancy diving and swimming," the other members were A. Rosenthall, L.
Murray, H. Baker, and C. Smith.
Harold Baker later
identified Wickham, along with "(Cecil) Healy, the Martins,
Colquhoun-Thompson, Read, F. C. ('Freddie') Williams, and (Charlie)
Bell", as one of "our best (surf) shooters" (bodysurfers).
Healy and Wickham
were both members of the Manly Surf Club, and Wickham was one of Cecil
Healy's strongest competitors in the lead up to his selection to the Australasian
team for the 1912 Olympic Games.
In 1918, Wickham,
then aged 33 and appearing under the name "Prince Wickyama," set
a the still-standing world's record by diving from a height of 205ft
9in. into the Yarra River at Deep Rock Baths, Melbourne.
The feat was nearly
fatal, and Wickham was hospitalised for several days.
Wickham was not the
first, or the last, Pacific islander to have a significant influence on
Australian swimming and surfriding.
Bodysurfing was
introduced at Sydneys' Manly Beach in the 1890s by Tommy Tana, a native
of the island of Tana in Vanuatu (then the New Hebrides).
His style was studied
and copied by Manly swimmers, notably Eric Moore, Arthur Lowe and Freddie
Williams, who was considered to be the first local to master the sport.
On the 18th September,
Mr. W. W. Hill, the Australian Swimming Union secretary, announced that
Duke Kahanamoku would visit Australia to compete in Sydney and Brisbane
at the 1913-1914 national championships
W. T. Rawlins, president
of the Hui Nalu Club, had recently written to Hill confirming Duke's enthusiasm
to tour and noted that on the recent San Francisco trip "he broke many
records, among them the 100yds record held by your Wickham."
Rawlins wrote that,
following another visit to California in October, "we will start for
Sydney the first week in November."
This tour was formally
cancelled in a cable to the the A.S.U. on the 4th December.
Another call for
the development of a traditional Hawai'ian village, "located preferably
at the public baths beach at Waikiki," as a tourist attraction
was made by John T. Warren of the Honolulu Photo Supply, at the beginning
of October.
Warren cited the
establishment of the Outrigger Club as a precedent, it had "revived
the ancient surf-ridng and canoeing sport" and the "tourists are
crazy about it."
He was confident
that if "a family of Hawaiians, who can be depended upon ... which is
sober and upright", were in residence in the village, they "can
make the thing a success."
Mr. W. W. Hill, in
his role as secretary of the New South Wales Rugby Union, was invited to
referee several games in California during October 1913.
These included an
annual match between the University of California and Stanford University,
and matches played by the touring New Zealand "All Blacks" against
the All-American team and California University.
Returning via Honolulu
in December, he contacted Duke Kahanamoku "in regard to a visit to Australia,"
however, Duke was currently unavailable due to "private business" committments.
While at Waikiki,
Hill "mastered the art of surf-board riding, and canoeing in front of
the wave."
Hill noted that
"the
Hawaiian Athletic Union wants to send a team to Australia next season."
At the end of December, the Washington Herald reprinted a "humorous" anecdote from South Africa's Cape Argus, wherein a couple engaged in banter while they "started off on their Muizenberg run for a gambol with the merry surf boards."
On the last day of
the year, the Sydney Morning Herald published an extensive article
on Waikiki and Duke Kahanamoku, apparently based on a recent interview
by a visiting Australian, perhaps W.W. Hill.
It detailed the
Waikiki beachfront, the surfing conditions, and board and canoe riding,
followed by a brief description and biography of Duke with a list
of his five current world records.
While he was always
willing to demonstrate his swimming technique, "when asked how he 'kicked,'
Duke was quite at a loss to explain; and he finally gave it up, and said
he did not know, but just kept going naturally."
Informed of the
nature of the harbour pools in Sydney, Kahanamoku "was surprised to
hear of the enclosed baths, as, like all the natives, he has no
fear of sharks."
Indicating that
an Australian tour was confirmed for the next December (1914), the journalist
suggested that the climate, the water temperature, and the 100 metres staightaway
course of the Domain baths would see Duke swim times "even faster in
Sydney than he has done hitherto."
1914
The Commemorative
Pageant is rechristened the Mid-Pacific Carnival. ???
America,
to 1912.
The earliest and
most obscure report is from Union County Star and Lewisburg Chronicle
of 17 January 1862,
Apparently (the
document is barely legible), it records the sinking of a Union vessel and
subsequent rescue of some of the crew, one supported by the wheel (as flotsom)
and "three clinging to the surf-boards."
Of particluar importance
are the visits of Hawaiian surfers to demonstrate their skills in California.
While three Hawaiian
princes attending school in California in 1885 are known to have surfed
at Santa Cruz, in November 1893 a group of native Hawaiians went to La
Jolla, probably sponsored by the La Jolla Park Hotel, specifically to give
"surf riding shows", although it is possible they provided an assortment
of entertainments.
In 1894 a large
contingent travelled to San Francisco to present the Hawaiian exhibit at
the 1894 MidWinter Fair comprising a replica village, aquarium, and a wide
range of products and handicafts, including outrigger canoes and "an old-fashioned
surf-board."
The party included
a group of hula performers and two surfers, James Apu and Kapahee, who
were to give board riding exhibitions.
At Redondo Beach
in 1895, the local hotel presented the Hawaiian National Band amoungst
their summer attractions.
In addition to their
musical performance, band members were also scheduled to demonstrate high
diving and surf riding.
Whereas the diving
(from eighty feet) by John Inea and Sam Kaaua was a success, a letter home
from a band member notes that "they could not do some surf-riding there
being no surf."
After the Californian
engagements the band was expecting to travel to New York, but is unknown
if they and their surfboards travelled to the East coast.
An all too brief
report from Ocean City, Maryland, in 1900 notes that "Messrs Carter and
Cooper are skilled in surf riding."
Apart from the early
date for surf riding on the Atlantic coast, it should be noted that Carter
and Cooper were Afro-Americans.
[Repeated in Hawaii]
In an article printed
in 28 June 1907, either written by or initiated by Ford and probably fictitious,
George Freeth is said to be "the only man Iiving who has ever surfed on
the Atlantic coast."
It is claimed that
he had stowed away on a steamer to Atlantic City (without the knowledge
of friends, relatives, or the press), shaped a surfboard there from a local
"woodpile when the cook wasn't looking", surfed standing on his head and
rode between the piers, taunted the local life-savers, and, for his efforts
was arrested and assaulted by the police.
It is unlikely that
Freeth actually did any of this.
However, the story
may have been based on the knowledge that someone from Hawaii had previously
ridden at surfboard at Atlantic City, to the concern of local officials.
Maybe the Royal
Hawaiian Band surfers did make it to the East coast in the late 1890s,
and in 1912 it was reported that the "City Commission forbids
the use of boards in the ocean."
The article was
accompanied by "a snapshot of of Freeth riding the breakers, the
picture being pronounced. the very best photograph ever taken of a surfer
in action ... by Mr. Ford, who stood up to his neck among the breakers
for days in order that he might be able to get a series of such photographs.".
The article was probably
published to boost Freeth's profile before his departure to the West coast
to demonstrate surf riding.
Alternatively, it
may had been intended to cement the negotiations for his appearance;
if so, this goal was achieved.
It is difficult
to speculate on what the local surfers thought of the article; some may
have believed it, some may have seen it as a comic hoax on Freeth's West
coast sponsors, some were perhaps glad that Freeth was leaving Waikiki.
Five days later
Freeth departed on the Alameda for Southern California to introduce
"the royal Hawaiian sport".
In July, the Los
Angles press reported that the organisers of the Venice Water carnival
had invited "surf board riders from all over Southern California"
to participate.
Freeth, and possibly
his predecessors, efforts appear to have a foothold for local surfers in
California.
In August 1907, Freeth
and Kenneth Winter were in California, but found the surf at Long Beach
unsuitable.
Freeth was more
successful at Venice Beach, his exhibitions "drawing immense crowds along
the beach and on the piers."
At the end of the
month the Vience lifeguard service launched its first lifeboat, imaginatively
named Vience, captained by P. M. Grant, "an expert swimmer"
and in the five crew, George Freeth.
That summer he would
also appear at Redondo Beach, which had previously hosted the surfers of
the Royal Hawaiian Band in 1895.
In the second
week of October 1907, Kenneth Winter returned to Honolulu from California.
He reported that
George Freeth had plans to demonstrate surfriding at Atlantic City during
the next summer, but was currently working as a diver off the coast of
South America.
This was misleading,
at the same time the Los Angles press reported that George Freeth was in
a party of fishermen aboard the launch Swastika, for "several days
fishing up the coast near Malibu."
In early January
1908, plans for an athletic club at Redondo were announced, the instructor
was to be George Freeth, "the Hawaiian lifeguard who last summer delighted
and amazed audiences at Venice by his antics in the surf."
The program for
the festivities at Venice at the beginning of August included "surf
board riding by George Freeth, the Hawaiian boy and life saver, now of
Venice."
He was also listed
in the "fancy diving and high diving" event.
In mid October 1908,
the Pacific Amateur Athletic association of the Amateur Athletic Union
of the United States disqualified George Freeth and Louis Hammel from their
swimming events.
Freeth and Hammel's
amateur status was revoked because of their employment by the Abbot Kinney
company at the Venice bath house.
George Freeth was
acknowledged as the Captain of the United States Volunteer Life Saving
crew at Venice in November.
In a severe storm
and extremely high seas on 20th, he fell and broke his leg while attempting
to secure a broken sewer pipe on the Center street pier.
The recently reorganized
club was preparing teams for contests with other beach lifesaving organizations,
including a team for the "Water Basketball league" (Waterpolo).
George Freeth was
on the front page Los Angeles Herald in December1908 for his heroic
rescue of seven fisherman of Venice beach.
The crew effected
eleven recues in total, the press reported that "the waves dashed twenty
feet or more over the piers along the beach."
In the following weeks, calls were made to publicly honour Freeth for
his bravery.
On the east coast,
inspired by Alexander Hume-Ford's Riding the Surf in Hawaii, published
in Colliers National Weekly in August 1909, .Eugene Johnson immediately
acquired "what is called a surf board" and, with his wife, spent an "afternoon
riding the waves" at Daytona Beach, Florida.
It was suggested
that the "fine sport ... is taking well with surf bathers.
In April 1910, Burton Holmes presented his Our Own Hawaii lectures in California, augmented with Bonine's surf riding films.
Like the Royal
Hawaiian Band surfers who performed on the West coast at Redondo Beach
in 1895, a group of surfing musicians, "the Hawaiian quintette", were booked
at Atlantic City and at Ashbury Park N.J. in July 1910.
At Ashbury Park,
their board riding, "skimming on the crest of a wave for hundreds of feet",
was admired and copied by some locals, with limited success.
At the end of August,
the Honolulu press anounced that George Freeth had recently received a
medal from Congress in honor of saving the lives of seven Japanese
fishermen off the coast of California on 16th December 1908.
The report stated
that his mother and sisters received "the congratulations of their many
friends" and since working as a life-guard at Venice "he had nearly
fifty lives to his credit."
Meanwhile at Redondo
Beach, George Freeth was outclassing his rivals in water sports by returning
a man in a weighted diving suit to the surface from "nearly forty feet
down."
Following this feat,
he "delighted the crowds with a prolonged exhibition on
the surf board."
In eary September,
Charles Allbright and A. J. Stout rescued two men from drowning with
their "Hawaiian surf boards" at Long Beach California
The press claimed
that this was "the first time in ... history" such a rescue was
completed in California.
Visiting from Hawai'i,
Allbright was a Honolulu newspaperman and Stout was formerly the manager
of the Seaside Hotel and identified in the earliest report of the acquistion
of the Outrigger Club site in 1908.
They were entertaining
a crowd of beach-goers with their surfing skills when the two bathers got
into difficulty.
Their koa wood surfboards
were "much larger than those used on this coast being six feet
long, three inches thick and eighteen inches wide," suggesting that
some locals were surf riding with small prone boards.
By the end of September 1910, George Freeth was back in Honolulu and he took a water polo team, variously his "combination" or his "seals," to play a team of soldiers at Fort Shafter, winning 7-0.
On 26th August 1912,
the Tacoma Times reported a group of day-vistitors traveled on theNorthern
Pacific Railway to Moclips Beach in Washington where the various
entertainments included "surf riding by the Quinalt (sic) Indians."
The Quinault Indians
had developed a high degree of skill with canoes carved from cedar trees
in a variety of specialized designs adapted to rivers, estuaries, and the
sea.
Moclips may be a
variation of the Quinault No-mo-Klopish, meaning “people of the
turbulent water.”
| 1890 | 1891 | 1892 | 1893 | 1894 |
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| 1905 | 1906 | 1907 | 1908 | 1909 |
| 1910 | 1911 | 1912 | 1913 | 1914 |
| January 1915. | February 1915. | Cronulla 7th February 1915. | March 1915. |
| 1915 | 1916 | The Surf 1917-18 | 1918 | 1919 |
| 1920 |
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In the same month,
San Francisco's The Argonaut, published a story by H.W. Miller titled
A
Futile Struggle- The Tragedy of a Voyage Under a Tropical Sun.
It opens as an ill
or injured "haole" is paddled by two "Kanakas" in an outrigger
canoe towards Ohau.
Meanwhile at Waikiki,
the "usual Sunday crowd of bathers assembled at Waikiki ... the
sky was a flawless blue ... sea was as clear as crystal."
The "surf had
never been better"
and was enjoyed by many canoe and surfboard riders, some performing head
or hand stands.
They included the"eel-like
Harold Hustace, as brown as any Hawaiian, ... with his surf-board, and
that bronze Apollo, Duke Kahanamoku, later to win enduring fame at Stockholm
for his prowess in the water."
Despite the efforts
of the crew in the outrigger canoe, the Waikiki locals fail to recognise
their difficulty, and when the canoe is swamped in the surf, the three
men perish.
The story, lightly
edited, was reprinted under the title Three Black Dots by Northern
Star (Lismore, NSW) in late July 1913 and Queensland's Chronicle
and North Coast Advertiser a week later.
1912
In January 1912,
"Breastsroke",
the swimming correspondent for Wellinton's (NZ) Evening Post, commented
on "a number of photographs in one of the New Zealand illustrated papers
showing bathers using surf boards at New Brighton beach."
The surfers were
said to ride "lying, kneeling, standing" and the reporter emphasised
the potential danger of "a board about five feet long, and an inch thick,
weighted with an eleven-stone man, hurtling down towards the small of some
unwary bather's back."
The article also
noted that in Sydney, several bathers had beeen "badly bruised by careless
breaker-shooters" and "members of the lifesaving clubs check the
practice as far as possible."
The "New Zealand
illustrated paper" article is yet to be located.
Evening
Post
HONOLULU.
SWIMMING.
(By
"Breaststroke-")
This week there
appeared
Perhaps a word
of warning would not be out of place.
Some swimmers
have imagined themselves in a very heaven of surfing on surf -boards
and flying before the long low combers toward the beach.
And all this
the experienced surfer can accomplish without danger.
In the hands
of a tyro, however, the surf-board becomes an engine of destruction.
Imagine , and
it is not difficult to understand wherein the trouble lies.
Only last week
Sydney Sun had a word or two to say on the subject: "Notwithstanding repeated
cautions, a number of surfers will persist in using surf-boards, and a
few instances have occurred recently where people have been
The offenders
usually choose a time when the police are away from the beach.
The members of
the lifesaving clubs check the practice as far as possible.
Let's hope they'll
"keep off the glass" in Wellington.
Evening
Post
,
Volume LXXXIII, Issue 17, 20 January 1912, page 14.