surfresearch.com.au  newspapers : surfing, 1860-1879

Champion (1814–1822), edited by John Scott.
London, January 27, 1822, page 11.
http://newspaperarchive.com/champion

The ship was lost on 11 August 1821.

March 25.
On waking at daylight, I found that the natives did not know whereabouts they were, and we stood first to the northward and then to the southward, looking for a landmark.
They at length discovered that we were off a place called Turakina, some miles to the northward of Rangitiki.
The swell from S.W. continued, and a heavy surf thundered on the beach.
There was, however, no wind.
Soon after passing the mouth of a river called the Wangaihu, the natives discovered something threatening in the aspect of the weather, and preferred landing through the surf here to proceeding to Wanganui.
All preparations were made for the worst chance; guns and other heavy goods were lashed to the thwarts, and blankets and mats were stripped off.
The canoe's head was then turned to the beach, and she went gallantly through the surf, which broke nearly half a mile out from the shore.
The natives shouted a lively chorus, interspersed with cries of "tena! tena!" or "pull away," from the steersmen, and of "ki a tika," or "keep her straight," from the others.
We got safe ashore, at the expense of filling everything with salt water.

National Library of New Zealand : PAPERSPAST
MR. E. J. WAKEFIELD'S LATE EXPEDITION.
New Zealand Gazette and Wellington Spectator, Volume I, Issue 6, 16 May 1840, Page 3
http://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/

A 'Taheitan amongst the Aborigines. -
On Sunday last, Mr. Burnet, tbe surveyor returned from the Bay, where he has been, lately engaged in marking the channel at the Northern Entrance, bringing with him a native of Otaheite, named George Moy, who, for many months past, has been living with a tribe of blacks inhabiting the coast.

National Library of New Zealand : PAPERSPAST
MORETON BAY.
Wellington Independent, Volume II, Issue 106, 17 October 1846, Page 3
http://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/

Chronicling America
Union County star and Lewisburg chronicle. (Lewisburg, Pa.) 1859-1864, January 17, 1862, Image 1
Image and text provided by Penn State University Libraries; University Park, PA
Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85038443/1862-01-17/ed-1/seq-1/

Note.
This early and most obscure report apparently (the document is barely legible), records the sinking of a Union vessel and subsequent rescue of some of the crew, one supported by the wheel (as flotsom) and "three clinging to the surf-boards."

THE VOLCANO !
Hilo, April 6, 1868.
...
On Thursday last, April 2nd, as I was riding from Makuu to Hilo, and was in Panaewa woods, about 3 1/2 to 4 miles from the latter place, another shock of earthquake occurred at 3:45 P.M., by my watch, (some minutes after 4 by Hilo watches).
This was the heaviest shock we had yet experienced.
...
At Punaluu, at the moment of the shock, it seemed as if an immense quantity of lava had been discharged into the sea some distance from the shore, for almost instantly a terrible commotion arose, the water boiling and tossing furiously.
Shortly afterwards, a tremendous wave was sweeping up on the shore, and when it receded, there was nothing left of Punaluu! Every house, the big stone church, even tbe cocoanut trees all but two were washed away.
The num ber of lives lost is not yet ascertained.
All who were out fishing at the time perished, and many of those ashore.
A big chasm opened, running from the sea up into the mountain, down which it is said lava, mud, trees, ferns and rocks were rushing out into the sea.
The same wave that swept away Punaluu, also destroyed the villages of Ninole, Kawaa and Honuapo.
Not a house remains to mark the site of these places, except at Honuapo, where a small "hale halawa" on the brow of the hill, above the village, still stood on Friday last.
The large cocoannt grove at Honuapo, was washed away, as well as that at Punaluu.
A part of the big pali at Honuapo, on tbe road to Waiohinu, had tumbled into the sea, and people coming from thence are now obliged to take the mountain road through Hillea-uka.
...
I have just been told an incident that occurred at Ninole, during the inundation of that place.
At the time of the shock on Thursday, a man named Holoua, and his wife, ran out of the house and started for the hills above, but remembering the money he had in the house, the man left his wife and returned to bring it away.
Just as he had entered the house the sea broke on the shore, and, enveloping the building, first washed it several yards inland, and then, as the wave receded, swept it off to sea, with him in it.
Being a powerful man, and one of the most expert swimmers in that region, he succeeded in wrenching off a board or a rafter, and with this as a papa hee-nalu, (surf board), he boldly struck out for the shore, and landed safely with the return wave.
When we consider the prodigious height of the breaker on which he rode to the shore, (50, perhaps 60, feet), the feat seems almost incredible, were it not that he is now alive to attest it, as well as the people on the hillside who saw him.

Chronicling America
The Hawaiian gazette. (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1865-1918, April 29, 1868, Image 4
Image and text provided by University of Hawaii at Manoa; Honolulu, HI
Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83025121/1868-04-29/ed-1/seq-4/

Sixteen persons, guests of "Tucker's," at Shark River, had a very narrow escape from drowning on Saturday while taking a surf bath.
The beach is a very safe one, but it so happened that two or three of the bathers in question took it into their heads to make a test of an unexplored portion of it, where the breakers appeared to be the most inviting.
The party consisted of Mr. Frank Hatfield, and his sister Cecilia, Mr. Joe Fox, Mr. Thomas Gilhooly, Miss Hattie Rutter, Miss Fanny Rutter, Mr. Robert Fox, Miss Katie O'Hara, Miss Beatty, Sir John Brophy and his sister Katie, Miss Emily McCallum, Mrs. Rowley, Miss Emma Tucker, Miss Lizzie Garland, and Signor Hermani, the well-known opera singer.
The water was delightfully warm when the bathers stepped into the waves, and they at once began to enjoy themsehes to their hearts' content.
Under the excitement of the moment they neglected to drag the rope, provided for the safety of bathers, after them and to this neglect was partially due the ternble expenence which followed.
The party did not venture out very far, but they found the surf so "splendid" that they forgot all about their bearings and so, when they finally made up their minds to go ashore, they discovered that they had been dnfted a considerable distance north of the rope-stake where they had started into the water.
This "trifle" gave no uneasiness to any of the party, and in twos and threes each made his or her way toward the shore as well as was possible under the circumstances, the sea at the time running very high and the presence of a strong undertow beginning to make itself felt.
The foremost of the bathers had already reached within a distance of thirty feet from the shore when of a sudden the bottom of the sand underneath their feet seemed to drop away, and in another second they were floundering in the surf with the water fully a fathom deep, the fact is, they had walked into one of the numerous holes with which the sea, beating hard upon the soft sand during the gale like that of Fnday, so often honeycombs a shallow beach.
Miss Emma Tucker and Miss Fanny Rutter were the first to fall into the trap.

They sank for a moment out of sight, and on coming to the surface screamed for help.
Their cries attracted the attention of Mr. Gilhooly, who was in shallow water a short distance from them, and he at once rushed to their assistance.
The moment he reached her side Miss Tucker, in going down a second time, threw her arms about him, and clutched him so closely that he was unable to strike for the shore, and the three - Miss Rutter having hold of him also - sank beneath the waves.

Gilhooly managed, on conimg to the surface, to get his arms free, and, telling the two girls to cling to him, made a dash for the shore.
It was a hard tug but the tide, fortunately, was beginning to flood and he finally succeeded in landing ma charges on the dry beach safely, though more dead than alive.
Almost at the same time that this struggle for life began, the other bathers were striking out right and left for the shore, they too having got into one of the storm traps.
So intent was each two or three who happened to be together when they got beyond their depth, that the enes of alarm of the others who were in twos and threes, and were in like danger were unheeded by them Mr., Brophy, like Mr. Gihooly, had a terrible struggle of it not only to save himself, but the ladies who happened to be near him, when they got into the holes in the sand.
He seized his sister Katie with a firm grip with one hand while Miss Hattie Rutter, Miss Beatty, Miss 0'Hara and Miss Lizzie Garland, hung to him - each clinging to whatever part of his bathing dress they could get hold of- with a grasp of death.

To swim, under the circumstances, was an impossible, and the whole party were again and again earned down by the waves.
By plunging forward, the best way they could, and taking advantage of every shore-bound wave that came roaring along, by throwing himself forward on its crest, Sir Brophy, with his load utterly exhausted, at last reached the shallow water.

Miss McCallum and Mrs Rowley had a very narrow escape of it too.
Utterly helpless, beyond their depth, and pulled downward and farther away from the shallow water by every wave that receded from the beach after it had struck, they certainly would hav e been lost but that Mr Joseph Fox, luckily an expert swimmer, discovered them in time.
When he reached them they had already been carried away quite a distance from the line of the stake, but he battled his way through the breakers determinedly, each of the ladies holding with one hand to his back, and was fortunate enough to get them ashore safely.
Mr. Hatfield and his sister had a like expenence to the others.
Thanks to the efforts of the former, and the assistance the others gave him when the danger they were in was discovered, they both reached the shore in safety, but not until they had become almost helpless.
Horace Rutter, a youngster about nine years of age, who was on shore at the time, had presence of mind enough, it should be mentioned, when he finally discovered the peril of the bathers, to throw the rope out, so that those struggling in the water were able to reach it, and pull themselves in out of the breakers when once they had got out of the deep water.

"To the beach by all means!" cried and to the beach we hastened, where indeed, we found a heap of cast-off raiment, and a hundred foot-prints in the sand.
What would Robinson Crusoe have said to that, I wonder?
Across the level water heads, hands, and shoulders, and sometimes half-bodies, were floating about, like the amphibia.
We were at once greeted with a shout of welcome, which came faintly to us above the roar of the surf, as it broke heavilv on the reef, a half mile out from shore.
It was drawing to the hour when the fishers came to land, and we had not long to wait before, one after another, they came out of the sea like so many mermen and mermaids.
They were refreshingly innocent of etiquette, at least of our translation of it; and, with a freedom that was amusing as well as a little embarrassing, I was deliberately fingered, fondled, and fussed with by every dusky soul in turn.
"At last," thought I, "fate has led me beyond the pale of civilization; for this begins to look like the genuine article."
With uncommon slowness, the mermaids donned more or less of their appare!, a few preferring to carry tneir robes over their arms, for the air was delicious, and robes of sea-weed are accounted full dress in that delectable latitude.
Down on the sand the mermen heaped their scaly spoils- fish of all shapes and sizes, fish of every color; some of them throwing somersaults in the sand, like young athletes; some of them making wry faces, in tneir last agony; some of them lying still and clammy, with big round eyes like smoked-pearl vest buttons set in the middle, of their cheeks- all of them smelling fish-like, and none of them looking very tempting.
Small boys laid hold on small fry, bit their heads off and held their silver-coated morsels between their teeth, like animated sticks of candy.
There was a Fridayish and Lent-like atmosphere hovering over the spot, and I turned away to watch some lads who were riding surf-boards not far distant- agile, narrow-hipped youths, with tremendous biceps and proud, impudent heads set on broad shoulders, like young gods.
These were the flower and chivaly of the Mena blood, and they swam like young porpoises, every one of them.

Chronicling America
Memphis daily appeal. (Memphis, Tenn.) 1847-1886, April 20, 1873, Image 2
Image and text provided by University of Tennessee
Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83045160/1873-04-20/ed-1/seq-2/

Note:
Title: American Hawaii
Author: Allen, Alexander
Publication Info: Overland monthly and Out West magazine. / Volume: 32, Issue: 191, Nov 1898, pp. 432-454

Page 432: "Surf-bathing at Waikiki" Photo by Davy.

The following is a true and correct account of the circumstances under which Mr. Charles Lambert, aged 24, met bis death by drowning at Kailua, in the Island of Hawaii, at 8:30 a. m. on the 20th of November.

In consequence of his delicate state of health Mr. Lambert, the eldest son of an English gentleman residing ot Coqnimbo in Chile, was invited by his friend Capt. Cator, R. N. to accompany him in his cruise to the Hawaiian Islands, in the hope that the invigorating sea breezes might restore him to his former strength and vigor.

When the "Scout" carried Professor Forbes and his party to Kailua, Mr. Lambert was asked by Professor Forbes, who had become much attached to him, to remain there until the return of the vessel from Hilo.
In the interval, however, he had benefited so much from his stay at Kailua that he determined to prolong his visit until the Professor had finished his work there.
The party were accustomed to bathe every morning in the waters of the Bay.

On Friday morning a little before 8 a.m., Professor Forbes and Mr. Lambert went to bathe as usual.
During three days previously a Kona had been blowing into the bay, and having on Thursday seen the natives using the surf-board, Mr. Forbes and his friend thought of trying their hands at it.
They were furnished by the Hon. Simon Kaai, Sheriff and Representative of the District, with surf-boards, he not considering that
there was any danger in so doing.

Professor Forbes entered the water first.
When it was up to his chest, being about thirty yards from the shore, he began to look out for a good wave to try to ride in upon. Not having been successful and happening to look round he found that he was a hundred and fifty yards from the shore, having been carried out by the under current.
He did not however at that time apprehend any danger.
A small native boy, an adopted son or Simon Kaai, now shouted to him, gesticulating and pointing to Mr. Lambert, who was about fifty yards nearer to the shore than himself.
He saw that Mr. Lambert had let go of his surf-board, and was in difficulty.
He then swam with all his strength towards Mr. Lambert, making, however, but little progress against tbe current.
Mr. Lambert wasdrifted towards him.
He was feebly striking out, every wave submerging him.
When about ten yards from him, the Professor shouted to him to keep up five seconds longer.
When he approached him, Mr. Lambert made no attempt to clutch Professor Forbes, as many would have done in similar circumstances, nor did he during the whole time that he was being supported, yield to the temptation.

Professor Forbes now held him up with the assistance of the native boy above mentioned.
It appeared to him that to launch a canoe in the surf then raging (for the sea had increased with the wind since they had entered the water), was a sheer impossibility.
It therefore never ocurred to him to shout for a boat, especially as the natives soon crowded on the shore perceiving their danger. While therefore with his right hand Mr. Forbes held Mr. Lambert under the left arm-pit, he struck out bard for the shore.
He made however no head way, but was drifted farther out, and it then occurred to him that there was no prospect of either of them being saved, and he resolved to hold up his friend until they should both go down together.
The surf was at this time dashing against the rocks at their side so that landing seemed impossible.
There was, it appears, a channel there known to the natives, but of which he, the Professor, was ignorant.
So he continued to strike out for the shore.

In the course of time, Mr. Weeks, the carpenter, and a native came out, and they held Mr. Lambert up between them.
Mr. Weeks, however, being subject to asthma, was soon exhausted and left.
Mr. Forbes again took his place.
The other native was also going off, but owing to the urgent remonstrances of Professor Forbes, remained; even then he would not lend a hand in helping to support poor Mr. Lambert.

They now saw that the people on shore were attempting to launch a canoe.
Ten minutes after Professor Forbes became absolutely exhausted ; his arms lost their power, and it was only with the greatest difficulty that he was able to hold on to Mr. Lambert, every wave engulphing them both.
He had now been dead some minutes.

Professor Forbes was in the position of clutching Mr. Lambert's arm, and raising his head out of the water, then obliged to let him down a little, and using his last strength to keep afloat enough to get breath occasionally, when a native called Kaea (who with the best swimmer had been inland, but rushed down to the shore on seeing tbe canoe brought out) whom the waves bad hitherto hid from his sight, appeared.
He relieved the Professor of the dead body of bis friend to save whose life he had made almost superhuman efforts and with his
great strength raised him out of tbe water.
The canoe, which took twenty mintues to come out, then reached them, although a holewas broken in it while being launched.
The Professor with the dead body of his friend was put into it, and reached tbe shore in safety.

Mr. Lambert's body was taken to a house and laid on his back with his bead on a pillow, his jaws though slightly open were firmly locked, and it was found Impossible to get his tongue out.
Both the plans publithed by tbe Royal Humane Society of London were tried in vain.
Hot water was applied to his feet, his limbs were rubbed by the native women to excite circulation, but all to no purpose, and brandy was poured down his throat.
The body was then taken to the house in which Professor Forbes and the party were residing, and carefully laid out on a bed.
Mr. Barnacle went to Kona to see tne English clergyman, the Rev. Mr. Davies, and Mr. Weeks went for a coffin.

Great credit is due to Simon Kaai for his attempts to aid Professor Forbes and his friend, he (Simon Kaai) stated that he was much flurried, and that was why he did not think of a canoe sooner.
Thanks also are due to Mr. Bergman, a German resident here, for coming off in the canoe, and likewise to the stepmother of Simon Kaai for the same service.

Mr. Lambert met his end, as all who knew him must have felt that he would, with fortitude and resignation, it is believed that he died without pain; and the calmness of his expression showed that he died in peace.
Mr. Lambert's early and untimely death is deeply and deservedly mourned by Capt. Cator and the Officers of H.B.M.S. Scout, and by all who knew him.
How little they all thought that the soil of Hawaii was to give him a grave!

The conduct of Professor Forbes, in whose arms Mr. Lambert drew his last breath, and who, with unequalled courage and devotion, risked and would have sacrificed his life to save that of his friend, is beyond all praise.

On the 21st the body ol Mr. Lambert was conveyed to Honoull, by native bearers under the charge of Mr. Kaai, and followed by Professor Forbes, who was obliged to be carried In a wagon, and by Mr.Barnacle.
There, in the little English Church Yard belonging tn the mission, with his country's flag for a pall a fitting canopy for one who had met his end with the courage of in English gentleman, the mortal remains of Charles Lambert found their last resting place.

Until a stone can be sent out from England, the spot will be marked by an oaken cross made on board H.B.M.S. Scout by the direction of Captain Cator, and conveyed to Kona by Lieut. Clutterbuck last Monday.

Chronicling America
The Hawaiian gazette. (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1865-1918, December 02, 1874, Image 2 (page 2)
Image and text provided by University of Hawaii at Manoa; Honolulu, HI
Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83025121/1874-12-02/ed-1/seq-2/

From the San Francisco Call
Miss Adelaide Miller, the Hawaiian songstress, was the beroluc, a short time prior to her departure for San Francisco, of an adventure, perhaps, unlike any recorded in the wildest production of fancy, certainly nothing of equal romance has been mado public.
Miss Miller was on a visit to some friends at Waikiki, a celebrated watering place near Honolulu, and also noted as the summer residence of the Hawaiian Kings.
It is a great place for surf bathing -almost every hour of the day during the season shoals ol duskr figures belna: visible balutnic sniuuif Ihe
breakers.
The waters near the shore are considered safe, but outside oh the reel are tabooed, on account of the shark, wbicuauouiid Iu immcusu numbera.
Wo to the daring swimmer that veulures that far.
Once beyond tbe reef he may as well make his will in favor of the nearest Bats, for his fate is as certain as the deplellou of a friendless toper's exchequer by the voracious sharks of a police court.
One day Miss Miller was enjoying a surf bath with a number of her companions.
Like most of tbe islanders, she is amphibious, as much at home in water as upon land,;swimi in fact like a fish, and has a national reputation as a diver.
While so engaged, one girl proposed they should swim out to the reef.
The suggestion was not followed, fear of the monsters there abounding beta: tbe excuse.
This did not intimidate the girl who made tbe proposition.
She resolved to go thither herself, and finally bantered her companions into following her example.

As they approached tbe reef a canoe passed them, the natives calling, " Mano ! Mano!" (shark! shark!) also anriug them to hasten to the canoe for safety.
But, before the terrified girls could move one way or the other, a huge blue abnrit surged in among them, and, rising to the surface, lifted Miss
Miller out of tbe water.
In her terror she grasped one of the shark's upper litis.
This proceeding, as well as the burden upon its back seemed to terrify the monster, for it darted off at a speed that would easily outstrip the fastest ship, keeping however, upon tbe surface of the water, it kept along at this pace for about sixty yards, still bearing tbe Hawaiian maid upon its back, when it suddenly plunged downward, forcing the fair rider to let go ber hold, and leaving her unscathed after her perilous adventure.
She was soon picked up by the canoe, and, with her companions, returned In safety to Waikiki.
This adventure raised Miss Miller very highly in the estimation of her country people, by the bulk of whom the shark is held sacred, and still worshipped.
Even after a century of Christianity, this superstition prevails.
The Kanakas will not kill a shark except in self-defense, nor will they eat its flesh, though this is estimated s delicacy among most of the South
Sea Islanders.
The fact that a Hawaiian had ridden a tlsli so sacred (and, we may add, voracious), was indeed a dt subject for panegyric, though we question whether the highest eulogiutu would induce the sweet-voiced Maulan to again cavort upon the aplnc of an azure-sklnued " mano."

[The above is a fair specimen of a sensational reporter's efforts to manufacture news.
Miss Miller doubtless related the story of the old native Hawaiian woman, who, some twelve years ago, rode across Wailua Bay on the back of a shark, as published in the P. C. A., at the date of the occurrence of this remarkable feat, which is believed to have been a fact, as there were several eyewitnesses of it.
The reporter has made Miss M. the hero of a story, which is being copied far and wide in American papers. Ed].

The Hawaiian gazette. (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1865-1918, June 16, 1875, Image 2
Image and text provided by University of Hawaii at Manoa; Honolulu, HI
Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83025121/1875-06-16/ed-1/seq-2/

Blessed with the most agreeable and perfect climate to be found on the face of the earth, and isolated by our position from risk of the diseases and plagues which have so frequently, in the past, decimated the most populous nations, and which are still, in spite of the advances of science, greatly feared in almost every land, we cannot carelessly devote ourselves exclusively to the pursuit of wealth, or honor, or pleasure, with, no regard our physical well-being, without having sooner or later to pay the penalty.
...
Sea-bathing is another invaluable sanitary agent which does not appear to be adequately appreciated in this country.
Abroad it is more and more acknowledged to be of great service, not only in preserving health, but also in restoring tone to the system when reduced by functional disorder, dissipation, over-work, or any other cause.
Public saltwater baths are now to be found in all the larger cities of the sea-board, both in America and Europe; while here, in Hawaii, where Nature has furnished unsurpassed conveniences for the luxury, it is very much neglected, so that the great mass of the population, natives included, do not probably average one salt-water bath in a year.
In the olden time when Hawaiians were lesty heathen they were accustomed to spend about half of their time in surf-bathing, and it is not unlikely that a large part of their former vigor was the result of this practice.
Certain it is that sea-bathing is just the tonic required to counteract the somewhat enervating influences of our tropical climate, one of these compensations so often seen in the natural world.
 

The Hawaiian gazette. (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1865-1918, March 07, 1877, Image 2
Image and text provided by University of Hawaii at Manoa; Honolulu, HI
Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83025121/1877-03-07/ed-1/seq-2/

Chronicling America
The Hawaiian gazette. (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1865-1918, June 13, 1877, Image 2
Image and text provided by University of Hawaii at Manoa; Honolulu, HI
Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83025121/1877-06-13/ed-1/seq-2/

The above day was celebrated on Monday, June 11th, with a lively eclat.
The sports were altogether native, and illustrated in a striking manner to the observation of foreigners, the ancient skill and prowess of Hawaiians.
The situation and all the surroundings of this place are most favorable for the display and observation of gladitorial action.
A smooth and pleasant, yet gentle, banked up beach enables spectators to stand on the very brink of a grand surf-bounding tide, and on this occasion all the people of the ancient Hawaiian capital were there to witness, as foremost sports, a match of Hawaiian swimmers.
Four stout and well-framed men, showing their glossy brown bodies and the swell and fold of well-wrought sinews, stood up in a line with girded loins, like the " mamalahoa" or special warriors of the Conquerer, and, at a signal, they dashed into the surf, and swam towards the "Nettie Merril," that lay about a quarter of a mile offshore.
The four heads kept about an even line till they rounded the schooner's stern, but as one bushy head came foremost out from under the Nettie's bow, and was recognized by the throng of people as a Lahaina favorite, then the shouts ran along the shore and again as he came along almost neck and neck with a stout contestant, and the other two at his very heels, the outcries of friends and of an excited multitude drowned the roar of the now surging tide.
Now, louder and londer was the human roar as the foremost men, whose straining stare was now plainly to be seen on the shore, came in on the great rollers hand over hand, and as Paeola the favorite struck the sand hardly an arm's length beyond his stout competitor, there went up a shout from tbe multitude load and prolonged that must have waked the memories of ancient contests on Lahaina's shore.

The foot races, of both men and boys, were spirited and well contested, and awakened the highest enthusiasm.
The climbing of the lofty flagstaff was a stirring illustration of Hawaiian daring.
And the donkey and bag races, with all their comical mishaps and incidents, convulsed a well amused multitude with roars of laughter.

But the surf riding, the pre-eminent Hawaiian sport, attracted an earnest attention, as the dignified Governor Moehonua had his chair planted, like King Canute, in order to observe more closely by the sea marge, where the far lapping tide came to wet his feet.
Poepoe, the champion surf rider of Hawaii, took part in this contest, and there was a murmur among the spectators as this splendid athlete appeared on the beach with his board that the judge of the games might as well give him the prize at once.
But there was another, and very special matter of interest in this contest; a woman was to contend with men in this daring and dangerous pastime.
Though past her youth, yet this woman was of a comely form, which was but slightly concealed by the scant pa-u.
Her long flowing hair, and well rounded limbs glistened pleasingly through tbe green translucent white crested combers, through which she lightly made her way seaward, along with three stalwart male companions, till they reached tbe outerline of surf swell.
This surf is grand at times at Lahaina ; and the old gods wanted the old capital to have a treat this day.
The towering, combing waves rushed and thundered like an avalanche upon the beach.
There were alternations of greater and lesser waves.
Now those bold navigators on their tiny craft, are waiting for a great swell.
Here it comes, - upward, the swelling long liquid ridge arises.
It towers aloft and rushes onward to engulf the shore.
And onward came the children of old ocean, - coming, - sliding, and dancing on her crests.
Poepoe with outstretched arms like an ancient warrior about to hurl a spear, comes erect on his swift flying keel ; but where is Nakooko, the woman?
- Keeping her tiny craft well aslant the insurging tide, she shoots like a flying fish through the whitening foam, and as though Thetis would favor her daughter, she jostles the champion on his wonted plank of victory, and so the flowing hair and the rounded form came in foremost amid the out-cries of a delighted multitude glad that the woman had won.

Chronicling America
The Hawaiian gazette. (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1865-1918, June 20, 1877, Image 3
Image and text provided by University of Hawaii at Manoa; Honolulu, HI
Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83025121/1877-06-20/ed-1/seq-3/

Madras itself is not a particularly interesting place, yet there are many things worth seeing in that flat and level city; though we observe that the description of them does not occupy quite twenty pages of the Handbook.
As for our own impressions, we thought that the exciting work of landing through the surf- riding on the crest of a gigantic wave and then being swiftly whisked ashore by strong and swarthy arms was the best thing about Madras, except indeed the performance of the same operation when we took our departure.
How we envied the independence and pluck of the amphibious natives dancing over the dangerous surf on their tiny catamarans.

Newspaper Archive
http://newspaperarchive.com/colonies-and-india/1879-10-04/page-11/

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