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pods for primates : a catalogue of surfboards in australia since 1900

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references : books c

1982
Campbell, Mark :
Surf Sports Down Under
Golden Press Pty. Ltd.
2 – 12 Tennyson Road Gladesville NSW 2111 1992
Hard cover, 30 colour photographs,33 b/w photographs
Review
Primarily a photo book where many of the colour photos seem to suffer from poor reproduction.
The design section concentrates on the then new Thruster design (pages 25,29,32 and 33).
Other chapters "cover” kneeboards, waveskis and windsurfers.

1997
Cariou, Patrick :
Surfers
powerHouse Cultural Entertainment, Inc.
180 Varick Street, Suite 1302, New York, NY 10014- 4606 1997
Essay by Daniel Duane
Introduction by Matt Warshaw
Hard cover, 144 pages, colour and black and white photographs.
Review
A selection of black and white portraits, interspersed with a few colour surfing photographs.
Many feature surfer and board as illustrated by the cover. Note Matt Warshaw's comments in the Introduction
The photography is of high standard, and the design and reproduction is excellent.
There are no page numbers, but a thumb-nail gallery is included at the back of the book that allows the images to be quickly located.

1989
Carroll, Corky with Engle, Joel :
Surf-Dog Days and Bitchin' Nights
Contemporary Books Inc.
180 North Michigan Avenue, Chicago, Illinois 60601 1989
Soft cover, 188 pages, 46 black and white photographs.
Review
Eclectic and humorous personal account by California's dominant competitor 1965 -1972.
Some historical material on board design (Chapters 1, 10 and 15) and various significant contests, for example the World Championships 1966,1968 and 1970. Other topics include the surfing industry, surf culture, social and family relationships, drugs, sex and music..

1991
Carroll, Nick (editor):
The Next Wave : A Survey of World Surfing
Collins Angus & Robertson Publishers Pty Ltd
4 Eden Park, 31 Waterloo Road, North Ryde NSW 2113 1991
Hard cover, 240 pages, colour photographs, 32 black and white photographs, 4 black and white illustrations, 16 maps, Glossary, Index.
Review
Large, high quality book with excellent reprodution of photographs.
Text selections are from the who's who of Surf writing - Leonard Leuras (Ancient Hawaii), Nick Carroll, Tim Baker, Sam George, John Ellis, Paul Holmes, Kirk Willcox, Derek Hynd; all of whom have other publishing credits, many listed on this page.
Divided into three main sections : History (page 15), Locations (page 59) and individual Surfriders (page 214).
In contrast with the rest of the book, the accompanying maps are very basic.In terms of format and content this work is very similar, but definitely superior, to Tom Carroll's Surfing the World, 1990 and Sam George : Surfing, 1992.
Errata:
1.Photograph page 30, Phil Edwards is on the outside.
2."Dave Jackman, who conquered...Queenscliff bombora on a 10-foot balsa gun" - Page36
The board is in fact foam and currently held by Barry Bennett Surfboards, Brookvale NSW.
3."The collaboration between McTavish and Nat continued with the 'fantastic plastic machines". Page 39.
Again Midget Farrelly's contribution has been overlooked and Nat Young's input overrated.
See Nat's Nat and that's that, 1998 pages 160 - 162.
4."...the first wave (in California) was ridden back in 1907 by George Freeth ...who was flown over to the mainland by a land developer" pages 61 and 66.
There is some evidence that the first surfers on the US mainland were native Hawaiians, circa 1900. See Kampion: Stoked pages 36-37.
The first flight across the Pacific was by Charles Kingsford-Smith and Charles Ulm in 1928.

1990
Carroll, Tom and Others :
Tom Carroll's Surfing the World
Lester-Townsend Publishing
Sydney Australia 1990
Hard cover, 176 pages, 166 colour photographs, some double/full page, 18 black and white maps.
Review
Unfortunatey this book is somewhat misleadingly titled - Tom Carroll's contribution comprises a mimimun of the text (extensive articles by Nick Carroll, Derek Hynd and Peter Wilson) and 'surfing the world' means the 1989 Professional World tour.
Tom Carroll's work is a brief introduction to each location, the main body of text is various accounts of contests with obsevations on the performances, results, personalities and local colour.
Although well written, the articles appear to be written initally as magazine pieces - strong on journalastic enthusiasm/weak on analysis. Similar to, but not as enjoyable as, Phil Jarratt : The Wave Game, 1977.
Note Book Co-ordinator: Graham Cassidy, Photographic Editor: Paul Sargent.

1994
Carroll, Tom and Wilcox, Kirk :
The Wave Within
Ironbark, Pan Macmillan Publishers Australia Pty. Ltd.
St. Martins Tower, 31 Market Street, Sydney. 1994
Soft cover, 187 pages, 14 colour photographs, 31 b/w photographs.
Review
Comprehensive account of professional competition career.
Early personal history, memorable free surfing sessions, physical injuries and other contestants (Cheyne Horan, Michael Peterson, Mark Richards, etc) are featured. Designer/shaper relations - Col Smith (Narrabeen), Simon Anderson (1st Thruster, 1981 page 43), Phil Byrne, Bill Barnfield, Brian Bulkley, Rusty Preisendorfer and Pat Rawson – appear throughout the book.
Décor : Tom Carroll’s (aged 14) personal sash design, influenced by Lopez’ Lightning Bolt and Larry Bertleman’s cresents logo (page 18).
Although Nick Carroll (brother) appears in the book, his editorship of Tracks magazine (198x – 198x) and subsequent surf journalism does not.

1968
Carter, Jeff :
Surf Beaches of Australia’s East Coast
Angus & Robertson, 221 George Street, Sydney. 1968
Laminated hard cover, 144 pages, 28 colour plates, 132 b/w photographs, 6 b/w maps, 7 b/w illustrations, surfing guide.
Review
Text covers short history, design, romance, SLSC and surf guide in a journalistic style.
Most interesting is the current Plastic Machine development (pages 61 – 63). Surf guide has emphasis on camping facilities.
Although the author is a good photographer, this book demonstrates surfing photography is an acquired skill – Jeff Carter’s surf photos have a ‘stilted’ quality when compared to the included work of John Witzig and Alby Falzon.
His best surf photograph is on the cover - Keith Paull (1968 Australian Chamion) goes right/Wayne Lynch (1968 Australian Junior Champion) goes left. Futher shots from this session, probably shot in the lead up to the 1968 Australian Titles at The Gardens Narrabeen, are reprinted pages 121 to 128 and also include Nat Young, Midget Farrelly and Ted Spencer.
Design interest :
1.Nat Young / Gordon Woods experimental flex board (pages 26 – 27);
2.USA Windansea Club Australian visit October 1967 - fins page 32, Keith Paull / Peter Clark page 33, Midget Farrelly chamfered tail page 64, Bob McTavish / Keyo double concave nose page 67, Steve Bigler (USA) + 9 ft noserider (top) compared with Midget Farrelly sub 8 ft V-Bottom (bottom) page 71;
3. Wayne Lynch / John Arnold double ender as featured in ‘Evolution’ circa 1968, page 121.
Collectors Note: This book also appears as a first edition with a white leatherette hard cover with dust jacket, same images as laminated board version.

1983
Cassidy, Graham. Photography Peter Crawford
Co-writers Holmes, Paul; Luton, Geoff; Growden, Greg; Hurst, Mike :
Greats of Australian Surf
Lester – Townsend Publishing Pty. Ltd.
PO Box 39 Broadway, Sydney, NSW 2007 1983
Hard cover, 107 pages, 37 colour photographs, 23 black and white photographs, professional contest results 1973 – 1983.
Review
Concentrating on contest performance the book opens with Midget Farrelly and Nat Young. The current top performers have individual chapters – Michael Petersen (sic), Terry Fitzgerald, MR, Rabbit, Cheyne Horan and Simon Anderson. Other entries include Nick and Tom Carroll (coming-up), Women surfers and some overseas surfers. Historical outline in the Prologue (pages 9 – 13) and Design Trends up to Simon Anderson's Thruster (pages 69 - 73).
**For the record : My List of Australian Surfing Greats (based on performance, style, contributions to design and to surf culture; in chronological order)…Claude West, ‘Snowy’ McAllister, Jack ‘Bluey’ Mayes, Bob Pike, Midget Farrelly, Nat Young, Wayne Lynch, Michael Peterson, Terry Fitzgerald, Mark Richards, Simon Anderson, Tom Carroll.

1989
Cassidy, Graham. Co-writer Luton, Geoff.
Photography Paul Sargent and Peter Crawford:
Greats of Australian Surf
Second Edition
Lester – Townsend Publishing Pty. Ltd.
5 Glenmore Rd., Paddington. 2021. NSW. Australia. 1989
Hard cover, 124 pages, 91 colour photographs, professional contest results 1976 – 1989.
Review
Concentrating on contest performance the book opens with the current top performers – Barton Lynch and Damien Hardman.
Midget Farrelly and Nat Young are forced to share a chapter (pages 54 – 63), as do Michael Petersen (sic), Terry Fitzgerald and Simon Anderson (pages 64 – 75).
Historical outline in the Prologue (pages 6 – 11).
Photograph of “Simon Anderson…Bell’s Beach…1981.” (pages 70 –71) looks suspiciously like Terry Fitzgerald on a Hot Buttered 7 ft 4 inch double winger pintail, single fin (Val Dusty Experiment, page 35).
**For the record : My List of Australian Surfing Greats (based on performance, style, contributions to design and to surf culture; in chronological order)…Claude West, ‘Snowy’ McAllister, Jack ‘Bluey’ Mayes, Bob Pike, Midget Farrelly, Nat Young, Wayne Lynch, Michael Peterson, Terry Fitzgerald, Mark Richards, Simon Anderson, Tom Carroll.

1979
Cato, Nancy
The Noosa Story
The Jacaranda Press 65 Park Road, Milton, Queensland. 1979
Reprinted 1981 2nd. Edition 1981
Hard cover, 141 pages, 28 colour plates, 126 b/w photographs, 16 b/w maps/illustrations, appendices.
Review
Only one surfing photograph, but an intensive analysis of the environmental transformation of a classic Australian northeast coastal village. A story repeated ad infinitum around the Australian (and probably everywhere else) coast.
This was Nancy Cato’s 15th published work.

1880
Caton, John Dean (1812-1895) :
Miscellanies
Houghton, Osgood & Co. Boston.
The Riverside Press, Cambridge. 1880
Hard cover, 360 pages, Frontpiece (portrait), Index.
Review.
See
Chapter XV Surfbathing at Hilo, on the Island of Hawaii.
Notes of Travel, 1878.
Pages 242 to 245.

2000
Champion, Shelagh and George :
Bathing, Drowning and Life Saving in Manly, Warringah and Pittwater to 1915
Copyright Shelagh and George Champion,
14 Tipperary Avenue, Killarney Heights NSW 2087
Published and printed by Book House, Glebe.
Soft cover, 231 pages, 42 black and white photographs / illustrations, References, Bibliography, Illustrations, Index.
Review

1984 Channon, Bruce and McLeod, Hugh, Hynd, Derek :
Surfing Wild Australia
Surfing World Magazine Pty Ltd (inc. NSW)
PO Box 128, Mona Vale, NSW 2103. 1984
Hard cover, 124 pages, mostly colour photographs, some b/w photographs, 4 colour illustrations.
Review
Coffee-table type photo book in Surfing World magazine (post 70’s) style.
Photo selection is questionable:
Lots of reptile, bird, bugs and flower shots accompanied by generally 'over-the-top' captions.
The essay (Charter Inroductions) by Derek Hynd concentrates on vivid descriptions of the geography and some historical details - mostly about early Dutch explorations.
Sponsored by Quicksilver (Boardshorts) and Rip Curl (Wetsuits), their products are in evidence throughout the work, but not as intrusive as in the subsequent publication, Surfing the Chain of Fire (1986), below.

1986
Channon, Bruce and McLeod, Hugh, Fitzgerald Terry :
Surfing the Chain of Fire
Surfing World Magazine Pty Ltd (inc. NSW)
PO Box 128, Mona Vale, NSW 2103. 1986
Hard cover, 124 pages, mostly colour photographs, some b/w photographs, 4 colour illustrations.
Review
Coffee-table type photo book in the overblown Surfing World magazine (post 70’s) style – starting with the dramatic collage cover.
Photo selection is questionable: you want a full double page spread of Gary Green carrying his board through the bush (pages 2-3)? – Have two (pages 60 – 61)!
Lots of girl, bird, bugs and flower shots and McLeod’s ‘bold’ graphics accompanied by 'over-the-top' captions.
Disjointed essay by Terry Fitzgerald is of some interest.
This book could be seen as a giant colour advertisement for boardshort manufacturer, Billabong (credited).

2002
Colburn, Bolton; Steck, C.R.; Finney, Ben; Wolfe, Tom; Stillman, Deanne and Stallings, Tyler :: Design by Carson, David::
Surf Culture : The Art History of Surfing
Laguna Art Museum 307 Cliff Drive, Laguna Beach, CA 92651-9990
in association with
Ginko Press Inc., 5768 Paradise Drive, Suite J Corte Madera, CA 942925 2002
Soft cover, 240 pages, extensive colour and black and white images.
Review
This book was published as an adjunct to the Surf Culture : The Art History of Surfing exhibition at the Laguna Art Museum and travelling to Honolulu and San Jose in 2003.
An excellent collection of material , however much of it has been previously been reproduced in similar books, for example see Kampion and Schiffer. In many cases the images have been graphically manipulated and/or are overlayed by large text. This may or may not appeal to the reader. There are no page numbers, which makes the work difficult to use as a reference.
Errata:
1. Photograph : Jeff Hornbaker, Untitled, 1980, Surfing Magazine Archive - is Peter Drouyn and assymetric twin fin.
2. Photograph : John Severson, Mike Doyle at Makhaha, c1955, Surfer Magazine Archive - is Phil Edwards, Makhaha, circa 1958.
3. Photograph : John Severson, Renny Yater at Santa Barbara surf shop, c1955 - definitely not 1955, foam boards indicate circa 1960.

2002
Christ, Jesus :
The Surfer's Bible : New Testament
Bible Society in Australia Inc
Locked Bag 3, Minto NSW, 2566
Soft cover, 624 pages, colour images.
Copy donated by James Cater, February, 2004.
Review

1992
Collins, Chris. Illustrated by Webeck, Louise :
The Name of the Game is Surfing
Fairfax Sporting Publications Pty. Ltd.
80 McLachlan Avenue Rushcutter’s Bay NSW 2011 1992
Soft cover, 63 pages, 4 b/w photographs, extensive black, white and blue illustrations, glossary.
Review
Beginner’s instruction book that competently covers the standard subjects of this type of work. Emphasis on practicing paddling skills and maneuvers useful to the novice.
History (Where it all began) Chapter 1 and Design (Equipment) in Chapter 2.
Some illustrations are drawings of widely circulated photographs, e.g. page 5.

1988
Conway, John :
Adventure Sports : Surfing
Salamander Books Ltd., 129 – 137 York Way,
London N7 9LG, United Kingdom. 1988
Soft cover 127 pages, 132 colour photographs, 24 colour illustrations, glossary, index.
Review
Well-produced instructional manual from English author/photographer with excellent illustrations (Simon Evans).
Chapter 2: Basic Equipment includes molded/ epoxy (?) boards derived form the European sailboard industry.
Pages 49 – 64 are printed twice.

1967
Cook, James and King, James
Beaglehole, John C. (editor) :
The Voyage of the Resolution and Discovery 1776 - 1780.
Hakluyt Society,
The Cambridge University Press
Bentley House, 200 Euston Road London N.W.1. 1967.
Two Volumes. Part 1.

1968
Cook, Joseph J. and Romeika, William J. :
Better Surfing
Kaye and Ward Ltd. 194-200 Bishopsgate, London, E.C.2 1968
Hard cover, 94 pages, 172 black and white photographs, 6 black and white illustrations, Glossary.
Review
Early English juvinile instuctional book, originally published as Better Surfing for Boys, 1967.
Basic text and photographs, the majority apparrently shot in England.
Of some interest is the quality of the boards, noteably a finely detailed Greg Noll board, pages 60-61 and elsewhere.
Some of the more advanced photographs may be Australia (Bobby Brown, page 71 - 78?), but are very blurry.

1984
Cordell, Dave
Photographs by David Edmund-Jones :
Boardsailing in Waves
Fenhurst Books, 13 Fenhurst Road, London, SW6 7JN 1984
Soft cover, 64 pages, extensive black and white photographs and illustrations.
Review
Specifically aimed at sailboarding in (and on) waves. Some basic design in Chapters 10 and 12.

1991
Cralle, Trevor :
The Surfinary – A Dictionary of Surfing Terms and Surfspeak
Ten Speed Press P.O. Box 7123 Berkley, CA 94707 1991
Soft cover, 198 pages, 12 colour plate collages, extensive black and white or two tone photographs, illustrations, cartoons and reprints; appendices, bibliography.
Review
Comprehensive collection of surfing terms, many with credited sources. Unfortunately these references are often from the work of commentators and not the original source of the term, e.g. Coolite. Surfboard Construction Terms, Appendix B (pages 169 to171) includes wonderful Rick Griffen price list for Greg Noll Surfboards and Surfboard parts, circa 1960.
Some surfboard design entries lack sufficient data e.g. tri-fin, perhaps illustrations or photographs would better explain design concepts.
A Brief History of Surfing, pages xxv to xxix, perfunctory but includes Bob Penulas’ cartoon : Wilbur Kookmeyer 1960 to 2015.
Excellent bibliography, selected references and credits, pages 183 to 194.
The inclusion of entries relating to surf music and literature is pleasing.
Artwork highlights :
Rick Griffen pages iii, xvi, xvii, 78, 170, 171.
George Woodbridge (text Al Jaffee) pages xxxii and 192, reprinted from MAD Magazine 1965.
Bob Penulas pages xxviii, xxiix, 38, 66, 85, 129, plate 10, 149, 169.
Honorable mentions :
Jim Phillips and Rick Stover, various pages.
The remainder of the illustrated work is of a high standard and adds significantly to the text.
Surfboard design photographic highlights : Author and first board page xi. History pre 1935 pages xxvi and xxvii. Classic leg rope damage page 37. Santa Cruz Surfing Club Plate #2. Balsa board circa 1950 Plate #3. Maxi-multi fin page 78. Dick Brewer/Surfboards Hawaii 9 ft pintail with offset stringers, circa 1975 page 88. Quads page 84. Rail saver page 96. George Greenough shortboard circa 1970 page 114. Flyer swallow tail page 140. Thruster cluster page 145. Al Merrick tri-plane hull, circa 1974 page 148. Michael Cundith Twin fin #2 with flex-cut fins page 150. Mark Richards’ Twin fin #2 page 150. Jack O’Neill prototype dry suit, Santa Cruz early 1950’s page 160. X fin page 164. The aforementioned Rick Griffen illustrations; Greg Noll Surfboards price list :“ALL BOARDS ARE GLASSED WITH 20 OZ FIBERCLOTH” page 170 and the Surfboard-what you surf with: “NOSE (PLACE TOES HERE)” page 171.
Special mention : Reprint from the Oxford English Dictionary -‘surf’’ page 125.

2001
Cralle, Trevor :
The Surfinary – A Dictionary of Surfing Terms and Surfspeak
Second Edition
Ten Speed Press P.O. Box 7123 Berkley, CA 94707 2001
Soft cover, 362 pages, 8 colour plate pages, extensive black and white or two tone photographs, illustrations, cartoons and reprints; appendices, bibliography.
Review
Greatly expanded second edition of Trevor Cralle's excellent The Sufrinary (1991 - above).
All the highlights mentioned above seem present, image udates include aerials, tow-in sufring and Mavericks' big surf.
Unfortunately this edition is printed on a off-whie paper that does not reproduce black and white images to their best definition.
Trevor Cralle welcomes contributions to future editions - Contact.

2005
Crockett, Andrew :
Switch-foot : Surfing Art Music
PH ProductionsPTE LTD (Singapore)
Distributed by Billabong, Australia.
www.switch-foot.com
Hard cover, 209 pages
Review
Eclectic collection of surfing sources as noted by the title.

1998
Curby, Pauline :
A Pictorial History of Cronulla
Kingclear Books
3/77 Willoughby Road,
Crows Nest, NSW 2065.
Soft cover, 119 pages, black and white photographs, maps, advertising reproductions, Select Bibliography, Index.
Review

2001
Curby, Pauline :
Seven Miles from Sydney - A History of Manly
Manly Council, 1 Belgrave Street, Manly, NSW 2095.
Printed by Headland Press, Brookvale, Sydney.
Soft cover, 300 pages, duotone and black and white photographs, Notes, Bibiography, Index.
Review
Extensively researched and professionally written book that has essential contributions to surfing history.
Chapters 7 and 8 concentrate on early surfing culture.
Particually enlightening is the section that firmly debunks the myth of William Gocher's campaign to legalise daylight bathing.
The story is invariably retold in almost every book or documentary that deals with Australian surfing history.
This import research is included in the Source Documents Menu as...
Pauline Curby : The Myth of William Gocher

surfresearch.com.au

Note
This is not a complete list of surfing books, only books read and reviewed for this site are listed.
For more comprehensive lists go to...
The Surfing Bibliography - Surfing Books
- Steven Whelan's (England) comprehensive list of books, film, video and magazines, listed alphabetically.
and/or
.The Water Log Surfing Bibliography
- excellent listing of books and journals by Daved Marsh (USA) listed by category.