025.pods.references.books

pods for primates : a catalogue of surfboards in australia since 1900

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references : books g

2000
Gabbard, Andrea
Girl in the Curl : A Century of Women in Surfing
Seal Press 3131 Western Avenue, Suite 410, Seattle, WA 98121. 2000
Soft cover, 144 pages, 114 colour photographs, 2 colour illustrations, 30 black and white photographs, 1 black and white illustration, Timeline, Glossary, Resources.
Review
A worthy inclusion to surf literature, the only other book on women's surfing to date being Marion Stell's biography of Pam Burridge.
Andre Gabbard is the co-author with Greg Noll of Da Bull.
Some highlights...
1.Rare photograph of Duke Kahanamoku by Tom Blake, page 20.
2. Kathy 'Gidget' Kohner surfs inside Malibu, photograph by Warren Miller, page 33.
3. Pages 37 to 39 - Reprint of article by Jeff Duclos : The Women of Malibu
Originally published in Longboard May/June 1999.
Details the women who rode Matt Kilvin and Joe Quigg's lightweight balsa malibus, circa 1951 - The Girl Boards.
4.Joyce Hoffman cutback, Makaha, circa 1964, LeRoy Grannis Photograph, page 50
5. Lisa Anderson, Surfer magazine cover and caption Lisa Anderson surfs better than you, 1995, page 110.
6.Layne Beachley, 30 foot tow-in, Photo Art Brewer, page 114.

1960
Gabrielsen, M.A., Spears, Betty and Gabrielsen,B.W. :
Aquatics Handbook
Prentice-Hall Inc., Englewood Cliffs, N.J. 1960.
Hard cover, 202 pages, black and white photographs, black and white illustrations, Selected References.
Steve Mitakis : Surfboard Riding, Chapter 15, pages 109 to 114
Review

1984
Galton, Barry
Gladiators of the Surf:
The Austalian Surf Life Saving Championships - A History
AH & AW Read Pty Ltd, 2 Aquatic Drive Frenchs Forest NSW 2086. 1984
Soft cover, 122 black and white photographs, Australian Championships Results, Index.
Review
An detailed work true to it's subtitle, mostly concentrating on contest results, with some background information where appropriate.
Surfboats feature throughout the book, with occassional surfskis and boards.
Photographic highlights include:
Old and modern surfski ('Snow' McAllister and Michael Pietre), page 8.
Australian S.L.S.A. team at Outrigger Canoe Club, Honolulu, 1939, page 64.
Hollow boards at North Bondi, 1947, page 74
Duke Kahanamoku at Torquay, 1956, page 108.
US-Hawaiian team members (withpaddleboards) Torquay, 1956, page 112 (incorrectly captioned "first of the malibus").

Although the S.L.S.A. has concentrated on racing, many famous surfboardriders (Claude West, 'Snowy' McAllister, 'Bluey' Mayes,...Tom Carroll) appear in the text and/or results.
In May 2008, Ian Nicol forwarded the following:
"Barry Galton, author of Gladiators of the Surf, died this year in Jan or Feb on the Gold Coast. He and his wife Moyra were great swimming mates of my mother's and I saw them both occasionally.
I understand that Barry had written several books on surf life saving.
He was a journalist with News Ltd and the Gold Coast Bulletin for many years.
I think I still have a copy of his obituary from the Bulletin.
I have my mother's copy of the book."

1972
Gardner, Robert:
The Art of Body Surfing
Chilton Book Company, Philadelphia - New York. 1972
Soft cover, 83 pages,13 black and white photographs.
Review
Probably unique.
Newport Wedge features prominently.
History in Chapter 2 (Duke Kahanamoku, Buffalo Kealana, Mickey Munoz).

2005
Gault-Williams:
Legendary Surfers: Volume 1 - 2500 B.C. to 1910 A.D.
www.cafepress.com/legendarysurfer/ 2005
Soft over, 358 pages, black and white illustrations and photographs.
Review

1990
George, Sam
Photographs by Aaron Chang
Surfing - A Way of LIfe.
Mallard Press
An imprint of BDD Promotional Book Company, Inc.
666 Fifth Avenue New York 10103. 1990
Hard cover, 128 pages, 132 colour photographs, Index.
Review
Large format book that covers large spectrum of surfing topics.
Of most interset is early history in Chapter 1 : The Sport of Kings, Chapter 2: the impact of Bruce Brown's Endless Summer on surfing exploration and surfing's relationship with Hollywood, Chapter 7.
Although Aaron Chang's photography is of a high standard, the almost exclusive use of his work is limiting when the text attempts to cover large areas of subject matter, although there is some historical material from other sources.

1992
George, Sam
Photographs by Jeff Hornbaker:
Surfing
Bison Books Ltd.
Kimbolton House
117A Fulham Road London SW3 6RL 1992
Hard cover, 112 pages, 132 colour photographs, Index.
Review
Most interest is Chapter 2 Birth of a Surfing Nation (pages 18 to 30) detailing the US/Hawaiian team visit in 1956 for the Melbourne Olympics.
Although Jeff Hornbaker's photography is of a high standard, the exclusive use of his work is limiting when the text attempts to cover large areas of subject matter, particularly when dealing with historical material, compare Nick Carroll : The Next Wave, (1991).
Very similar format to Sam George: Surfing - A Way of Life (1990) above.
Pedants Corner :
1."As (1964) world champ, Midget went on to become the first international surfer to win Hawaii's prestigious Makaha Championships (in 1962!)", page 23.
2. 1967 shortboard development ignores the significant contribution of Midget Farrelly, page 24.
3. 1977 MR twin fin development neglets to mention the early 1970sTwin fin and Reno/Fish influence, page 27.
4. Rodney Sumpter's career as an English surfer fails to mention that he leant to surf in Australia and was already highly competitive before returning to England in the mid-1960's, pages 98 to99.

1993
George, Sam
Photographs by Aaron Chang
Surfing.
Friedman/Fairfax Publishers
15 West 26th Street New York, N.Y. 10010, 1993.
Soft cover, 128 pages, 132 colour photographs, Index.
Review
Paperback re-print of Sam George and Aron Chang's Surfing - A Way of LIfe (1990), above.

2001
George, Sam (editor) :
The Perfect Day - 40 years of Surfer Magazine
Chronicle Books LLC
85 Second Street San Francisco 94105 2001
Hard cover, 168 pages, +150 colour photographs, 50 black and white photographs, several colour illustrations, Index.
Review
Ultimately this collection must be a disappointment, the task of compressing 40 years into a mere 168 pages a near impossibility.
The photography is to the expected high standard, but in many cases the selected articles are abriged versions.

Apart from the difficult decisions as to what as in and what was out, there are no Surfer Tips, Design Features or World Contest Reports.
Where is the Duke Kahanamoku - Surfer of the Century issue, circa 1999?
Where is the full catalogue of Surfer covers ? - a selection only is provided on the end papers.
Selections are identified by issue number only, dates would have been a simple but significant addition.
Worst of all, this publication probably supplants the future possibility of individual volumes by decade that would have provided the scale to do such a project justice.
Text Highlights :
Page 10 Phil Edwards : What is Good , - access link for full version in History - Source Documents
Page 24 John Witzig : We're Tops Now
Page 27 George Greenough ,
Pages 32-33 John Witzig : The Challenge From Down Under / Bob McTavish ,
Published in Surfer Magazine Volume 9 Number3 circa May - June 1968.
Initially printed in SURF INTERNATIONAL Magazine
Vol. 1. No. 2 December1967 - January 1968 Page 9.
- access link below for full version in History - Source Documents
Bob McTavish : "LADIES AND GENTLEMEN AND CHILDREN OF THE SUN.."
Craig Stecyk : Curse of the Cumash pages 68-69.
Note : Apart from the articles, a companion volume detailing the magazine's extensive advertising features could be of similar interest.

2006
Giacci, Madeira :
Elogio del Surf
Castelvecchi Publications
Via Isonzo, 25 00198 Roma
Soft cover, 216 pages, colour and black and white images, Glossary, Bibliography, Index.
Review
Italian publication with Italian text, with an expansive collection of images.

1999
Gilmore, Louise:
Queenscliff SLSC - 75 Years of Vigilance and Service.
1924 -1999.
Queenscliff Surf Life Saving Club Inc.
Queenscliff NSW
Hard cover, 156 pages, black and white images, Appendicies.
Review
For extracts see Queenscliff SLSC.

2008
Gordon, Michael with Beachley, Layne:
.Layne Beachley - Beneath the Waves.
Queenscliff Surf Life Saving Club Inc.Ebury Press
Random House Australia Pty Ltd.
Level 3, 100 Pacfic Highway, North Sydney NSW, 2008.
Soft cover, 347 pages, black and white and colour plates, Supporting Cast, Contest Record and Awards.
Review
Covers Beachley's early life and professional surfing career with a large proportion dedicated to her family and personal relationships, particually her reconciliation with her birth-mother.

Copy courtesy of Shoalhaven City Library.

2007
Grannis, Leroy:
Photographs
Edited by Jim Heinmann
Taschen GmbH
Hohenzollernring 53, D-50672 Koln.
Hard cover, 276 pages, extensive black and white and colour photographs, text in English, German and French.
Review.
Excellent overview of one of the era's outstanding surfing photographers.

1885
Greenwood, James:
The Wild Man at Home: or, Pictures of Life in Savage Lands
Ward, Lock, and Co.,
Warwick House, Dorset Buildings, Salsbury Square, E.C. 1885.
Woodcuts and design by Harden S. Melville.
Engraved by Newsom Woods.
Hard cover, pages
Review
See Source Documents:
1885 James Greenwood (quoting Rev. Ellis) :
Surfriding on Huhaine, 1824/1885.

1963
Grigg, Ricky and Church, Ron :
Surfer in Hawaii :
A Guide to Surfing in the Hawaiian Islands
John Severson Publications
Dana Point, California
Soft cover, 67 pages, duotone photographs, black and white photographs, one map.
Review

1998
Grigg, Ricky:
Big Surf, Deep Dives and the Islands - My Life in The Ocean.
Editions Limited
PO Box 10150 Honolulu, Hawai'i 96816, 1998.
Soft cover, 179 pages, black and white and colour photographs and illustrations,Chronology, Name Index.
Review
Ricky Grigg's work stands out as an unique combination of big wave surfriding and oceanography, based on extensive and intensive personal experience.
One interesing example is his calculations that indicate the largest swells to reach the southern shores of Ohau are in the range "15 feet or at the most 18 feet", disputing early accounts reporting larger waves, pages 86, 87, 88 and 89 (Sidebars).
Note that on the page 87 (main text) he notes the various methods of estimating breaking wave height and (apparently) endorses a calculation "from crest to trough".
See Bascom: Esimating Breaking Wave Height (1964).
Furthermore, some photographic evidence possibly moderates Grigg's contention.
See Holmes: Hawaiian Canoe (1993) page 108.
Unfortunately, a brief account of surfriding dynamics (page 82, Sidebar) is rudimentary.

2002
Griggs, Matt :
Surfers : A line-up of surfing's most inspirational characters.
Harper Sports
Harper Collins Publishers
25 Ryde Road Pymble, Sydney NSW 2073 Australia. 2002
Soft cover, 269 pages,
Review
The majority of surfing's most inspirational chacters rip in the surf, earn heaps of money, drive hot cars, drink beer/do yoga, attract numerous women, and all their mates think they are great.
Their mates are, invariably, also one of surfing's most inspirational chacters.
The most interesting profiles are Peter Troy, David Guiney, John Frank (all non pro-surfers), Lane Beachley and unknown pro-competitor, Wade Glassock.
The entries for Occy and Rabbit add little to previously published work - they both have their own books, coincidentally advertised in the back pages of this book.
The author is a former pro-surfer and Tracks magazine editor/journalist, and it shows.
In surfing's long history, the achievements of most of the surfers in this book are virtually insignificant. Even the dramatic surfing performance of Kelly Slater (who apparently declined an interview) appears modest, when compared with the contributions of Duke Kahanamoku.
The mis-spelling of Kahanamoku, page 261, .is most unfortunate.

1982
Grissim, John :
Pure Stoke
Harper Colophon Books
Harper and Row, Publishers Inc.,
10 East 53rd Street, New York, NY 100022. 1982
Soft cover, 159 pages, 45 black and white photographhs, Glossary.
Review
Well written book that covers a wide range of topics and surfing identities
Noted surfers include Shaun Thomson, George Greenough, Nat Young and Micki Dora.
Many of the photographs are rare and of high quality.
Minor blemish - unfortunately Shaun at OTW, page 109, is flopped, that is he is a goofy riding a left hander

1976
Gross, M. Grant :
The Ocean World
The John Hopkins University
Charles E. Merrill Publishing Company
A Bell and Howell Company, Columbus, Ohio 43216. 1976
Soft cover, 106 pages, 10 b/w photographs, 53 b/w illustrations / maps / graphs, glossary, bibliography, index.
Review
An academic work prepared as a textbook, each chapter includes Learning Objectives, Exercises, Questions etc.
Module 3 : Waves, Tides, and Shoreline Processes is of most interest to the surfing reader. If you have ever wondered how a moderately stratified estuary differs from a salt wedge estuary then the answer is probably in this book.

1979
Grubb, Jake (text and photographs) :
Hobie Cat Sailing
A Grubbstake Ltd. Book
Published by Airglide Publications, Long Beach California.1979.

Soft cover, 310 pages , extensive black and white photographs and illustrations, Contributions.
Review
A detailed sailing instruction manual with notes on surf sailing, pages154 - 170. which includes photographs of a Hobie16 crewed by Phil Edwards and Mickey Munoz, Sunset Beach , circa 1974, page 158
Note that the bottom photograph has been flopped..
Development history in Chapter 2 credits Woody Brown and Phil Edwards as precedents to Hobie Alter's design.
Note photographs of Hobie at Makaha 1961 , page 25 and shaping a balsa paddleboard, page 26.

2003
Guisado, Raul (text and photographs) :
The Art of Surfing
A Training Manual for the Developing and Competitive Surfer.
The Globe Pequot Press
P.O. Box 480, Guildfford, Connecticut 06437. 2003
Soft cover, 178 pages , extensive black and white photographs and illustrations, Glossary, References, Index.
Review
Very basic instruction manual.
Board design has seven pages, including fins 14 to 20.
Surfing history is covered in one page.
I could find no discussion, comments or even a refernence to "Art" in any context, surfing or otherwise.
The book is severely mis-titled.

surfresearch.com.au

Note
This is not a complete list of surfing books, only books read and reviewed for this site are listed.
For more comprehensive lists go to...
The Surfing Bibliography - Surfing Books
- Steven Whelan's comprehensive list of books, film, video and magazines, listed alphabetically.
From England,
and/or
The Water Log Surfing Bibliography
- excellent listing of books and journals by Daved Marsh USA, listed by category. From USA.