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  references : books c 


Cadigan, Neil; Conrick, Chris; Martin Steven; Meeham, John; Moore, Brett:
Evolution of an Icon
University of New South Wales Press Ltd.
University of New South Wales, Sydney, NSW 2052, 2008.
Soft cover, 224 pages, black and white and colour photographs, Acknowledgements, Appendices, Index.
A history of the NSW branch of SLSA with individual themed chapters by various authors. 

Cameron, Ian:
Lost Paradise - The Exploration of the Pacific.
Century Hutchinson Ltd.
Brookmount House 62-65 Chandos Place, Covent Garden, London, WC2N 4NW, 1987.
Hard cover, 248 pages, black and white illustrations, colour plates, Appendicies, Bibliography, Acknowledgments, Index.
Excellent overview of the the exploration and occupation of the Pacific.
Beginning with the Polynesians, Cameron examines several theories of their origin and identifies four periods of exploration and consolidation.
Importantly, he notes: 
"The smaller islands of Polynesia contain virtually no indigenous edible plants or land animals.
It is true that some of the larger islands contain both, but only in small number. 
Nowhere, except in New Zealand, did the land provide sufficient food to sustain human life.
So when Cook wrote that 'benevolent nature has not only supply'd them with necessarys, but with an abundance of superfluities', he had -for once - got it wrong. 
Virtually all the food-producing trees and plants which flourished in the pre-European Pacific island - the coconut palm, the taro, the sweet potato, the yam, breadfruit, banana, pandanus, gourd, chesnut and arrowroot -were brought there by the early settlers.
It was not 'benevolent nature' which provided the Polynesians with their wealth of tubers and fruit, but industrious man."
- pages 28-29.

Campbell, Mark : 
Surf Sports Down Under
Golden Press Pty. Ltd. 
2 – 12 Tennyson Road  Gladesville NSW 2111 1992
Hard cover, 30 colour photographs,33 b/w photographs 
Primarily a photo book where many of the colour photos seem to suffer from poor reproduction. 
The design section concentrates on the then new Thruster design (pages 25,29,32 and 33).
Other chapters "cover” kneeboards, waveskis and windsurfers. 

Capp, Fiona :
That Oceanic Feeling
Allen and Unwin
83 Alexander Street, Crows Nest, NSW 2065, Australia, 2003.
Hard cover, 288 pages, black and white maps by Verity Prideux, Bibliography, Acknowledgements, Credits.
An extended essay of a return to surfboard riding after a significant period of aquatic dislocation.
Written over twelve months, it largely focuses on Victoria's Mornington Penisular with visits to Torquay, Byron Bay, Cornwall, France and Hawaii.
With extensive quotations and references to surfing writers (Cook [sic], Finney and Houston, Jack Finlay, etc) and classical authors and poets including Homer and Virgina Woolf, all detailed in the bibliography.
The title is taken from Sigmund Freud.
Despite the frequent references to noted giants of literature, the author's musical inspiration is The Eagles (?!).
Frustratingly, the book feels as if its conclusion has been hurried to fulfil a publishing deadline.

Captain Honey:
Surfing- Big Wave Dreaming
Herron Books.
14 Manton Street, Morningside, Queensland, 4170. 
Hard cover, 222 pages, colour photographs.
Coffee table book with a diverse and varied collection of photographs, where the surfers are not identified, mostly pulled from
Given that many would not qualify as big waves, the book's title is misleading.

Cariou, Patrick :
PowerHouse Cultural Entertainment, Inc.
180  Varick Street, Suite 1302, New York, NY 10014- 4606  1997
Essay by Daniel Duane
Introduction by Matt Warshaw
Hard cover, 144 pages, colour and black and white photographs.
A selection of black and white portraits, interspersed with a few colour surfing photographs. 
Many feature surfer and board as illustrated by the cover. Note Matt Warshaw's comments in the Introduction
The photography is of high standard, and the design and reproduction is excellent.
There are no page numbers, but a thumb-nail gallery is included at the back of the book that allows the images to be quickly located.

Carroll, Corky with Engle, Joel :
Surf-Dog Days and Bitchin' Nights
Contemporary Books Inc.
180 North Michigan Avenue, Chicago, Illinois 60601  1989
Soft cover, 188 pages, 46 black and white photographs.
Eclectic and humorous personal account by California's dominant competitor 1965 -1972. 
Some historical material on board design (Chapters 1, 10 and 15) and various significant contests, for example the World Championships 1966,1968 and 1970.
Other topics include the surfing industry, surf culture, social and family relationships, drugs, sex and music..

Carroll, Nick (editor): 
The Next Wave : A Survey of World Surfing
Collins Angus & Robertson Publishers Pty Ltd 
4 Eden Park, 31 Waterloo Road, North Ryde NSW 2113   1991
Hard cover, 240 pages, colour photographs, 32 black and white photographs, 4 black and white illustrations, 16 maps, Glossary, Index. 
Large, high quality book with excellent reproduction of photographs.
Text selections are from the who's who of Surf writing - Leonard Leuras (Ancient Hawaii), Nick Carroll, Tim Baker, Sam George, John Ellis, Paul Holmes, Kirk Willcox, Derek Hynd; all of whom have other publishing credits, many listed on this page.
Divided into three main sections : History (page 15), Locations (page 59) and individual Surfriders (page 214).
In contrast with the rest of the book, the accompanying  maps are very basic.In terms of format and content this work is very similar, but definitely superior, to Tom Carroll's Surfing the World, 1990 and Sam George : Surfing, 1992. 
1.Photograph page 30, Phil Edwards is on the outside.
2."Dave Jackman, who conquered...Queenscliff bombora on a 10-foot balsa gun" - Page36
The board is in fact foam and currently held by Barry Bennett Surfboards, Brookvale NSW.
3."The collaboration between McTavish and Nat continued with the 'fantastic plastic machines". Page 39.
Again Midget Farrelly's contribution has been overlooked and Nat Young's input overrated.
See Nat's Nat and that's that (1998) pages 160 - 162.
4."...the first wave (in California) was ridden  back in 1907 by George Freeth ...who was flown over to the mainland by a land developer" pages 61 and 66.
There is some evidence that the first surfers on the US mainland were native Hawaiians, circa 1900. 
See Kampion: Stoked (1997) pages 36-37.

The first flight across the Pacific was by Charles Kingsford-Smith and Charles Ulm in 1928. 
Carroll, Tom and Others : 
Tom Carroll's Surfing the World
Lester-Townsend Publishing 
Sydney Australia 1990
Hard cover, 176 pages, 166 colour photographs, some double/full page, 18 black and white maps. 
Unfortunatey this book is somewhat misleadingly titled - Tom Carroll's contribution comprises a minimum of the text (extensive articles by Nick Carroll, Derek Hynd and Peter Wilson) and 'surfing the world' means the 1989 Professional World tour. 
Tom Carroll's work is a brief introduction to each location,  the main body of text is various accounts of contests with observations on the performances, results, personalities and local colour. 
Although well written, the articles appear to be written initially as magazine pieces - strong on journalistic enthusiasm/weak on analysis. Similar to, but not as enjoyable as, Phil Jarratt : The Wave Game, 1977. 
Note: Book Co-ordinator: Graham Cassidy, Photographic Editor: Paul Sargent. 


Carroll, Tom and Wilcox, Kirk : 
The Wave Within
Ironbark, Pan Macmillan Publishers Australia Pty. Ltd. 
St. Martins Tower, 31 Market Street, Sydney. 1994
Soft cover, 187 pages, 14 colour photographs, 31 b/w photographs. 
Comprehensive account of professional competition career. 
Early personal history, memorable free surfing sessions, physical injuries and other contestants (Cheyne Horan, Michael Peterson, Mark Richards, etc) are featured. Designer/shaper relations  - Col Smith (Narrabeen), Simon Anderson (1st Thruster, 1981 page 43), Phil Byrne, Bill Barnfield, Brian Bulkley, Rusty Preisendorfer and Pat Rawson – appear throughout the book. 
Décor : Tom Carroll’s (aged 14) personal sash design, influenced by Lopez’ Lightning Bolt and Larry Bertleman’s cresents logo (page 18).
Although Nick Carroll (brother) appears in the book, his editorship of Tracks magazine (198x – 198x) and subsequent surf journalism does not. 

Carter, Jeff : 
Surf Beaches of Australia’s East Coast
Angus & Robertson, 221 George Street, Sydney. 1968
Laminated hard cover, 144 pages, 28 colour plates, 132 b/w photographs, 6 b/w maps, 7 b/w illustrations, surfing guide. 
Text covers short history, design, romance, SLSC and surf guide in a journalistic style. 
Most interesting is the current Plastic Machine development (pages 61 – 63). Surf guide has emphasis on camping facilities. 
Although the author is a good photographer, this book demonstrates surfing photography is an acquired skill – Jeff Carter’s surf photos have a  ‘stilted’ quality when compared to the included work of John Witzig and Alby Falzon.

His best surf photograph is on the cover - Keith Paull (1968 Australian Chamion) goes right/Wayne Lynch (1968 Australian Junior Champion)  goes left. Futher shots from this session, probably shot in the lead up to the 1968 Australian Titles at The Gardens Narrabeen, are reprinted pages 121 to 128 and also include Nat Young, Midget Farrelly and Ted Spencer.

Design interest :
1.Nat Young / Gordon Woods experimental flex board (pages 26 – 27);
2.USA Windansea Club Australian visit October 1967 -  fins page 32, Keith Paull / Peter Clark page 33, Midget Farrelly chamfered tail page 64, Bob McTavish / Keyo  double concave nose page 67, Steve Bigler (USA) + 9 ft noserider (top) compared with Midget Farrelly sub 8 ft V-Bottom (bottom) page 71;
3. Wayne Lynch / John Arnold double ender as featured in ‘Evolution’ circa 1968, page 121.
Collectors Note: This book also appears as a first edition with a white leatherette hard cover with dust jacket, same images as laminated board version.
Surf International Volume 2 Number 3 page 14.

Casey, Rob :
Stand Up Paddling - Flatwater to Surf and Rivers
1001 SW Klickiat Way, Suite 201, Seattle, Washington 98134
Soft cover, 207 pages, black and white illustrations and photographs, Glossary, Resources, Index.
A general overview and introduction to  SUP riding, in its various formats.
The chapter by Corran Addison, History of Stand Up Paddling, is informative and notes the contribution of Dave Kalama and Laird Hamilton in 1995, with Rick thomas bring the first SUP to California in 2000.

Casey, Susan :
The Wave - In Pursuit of the Ocean's Greatest Furies
Yellow Jersey Press
Random Rouse, 20 Vauxhall  Bridge Road, London,SW1V 2SA, 2010.
Hard cover, 328 pages, black and white maps, black and white and colour plates, Acknowledgements, Bibliography, Credits.
Professional author covers large waves in ocean and surfing contexts, with an strong emphasis on the the potential dangers.

Cassidy, Graham.  Photography Peter Crawford
Co-writers Holmes, Paul; Luton, Geoff; Growden, Greg; Hurst, Mike : 
Greats of Australian Surf
Lester – Townsend Publishing Pty. Ltd. 
PO Box 39 Broadway, Sydney, NSW 2007   1983
Hard cover, 107 pages, 37 colour photographs, 23 black and white photographs, professional contest results 1973 – 1983. 
Concentrating on contest performance the book opens with Midget Farrelly and Nat Young. The current top performers have individual chapters – Michael Petersen (sic), Terry Fitzgerald, MR, Rabbit, Cheyne Horan and Simon Anderson. Other entries include Nick and Tom Carroll (coming-up), Women surfers and some overseas surfers. Historical outline in the Prologue (pages 9 – 13) and Design Trends up to Simon Anderson's Thruster (pages 69 - 73).

**For the record : My List of Australian Surfing Greats (based on performance, style, contributions to design and to surf culture; in chronological order)…Claude West, ‘Snowy’ McAllister, Jack ‘Bluey’ Mayes, Bob Pike, Midget Farrelly, Nat Young, Wayne Lynch, Michael Peterson, Terry Fitzgerald, Mark Richards, Simon Anderson, Tom Carroll. 



Cassidy, Graham. Co-writer Luton, Geoff.
Photography Paul Sargent and Peter Crawford: 
Greats of Australian Surf 
Second Edition
Lester – Townsend Publishing Pty. Ltd.
5 Glenmore Rd., Paddington. 2021. NSW. Australia.  1989
Hard cover, 124 pages, 91 colour photographs, professional contest results 1976 – 1989. 
Concentrating on contest performance the book opens with the current top performers – Barton Lynch and Damien Hardman.
Midget Farrelly and Nat Young are forced to share a chapter (pages 54 – 63), as do Michael Petersen (sic), Terry Fitzgerald and Simon Anderson  (pages 64 – 75). 
Historical outline in the Prologue (pages 6 – 11). 
Photograph of “Simon Anderson…Bell’s Beach…1981.” (pages 70 –71) looks suspiciously like Terry Fitzgerald on a Hot Buttered 7 ft 4 inch double winger pintail, single fin (Val Dusty Experiment, page 35). 

Cato, Nancy
The Noosa Story
The Jacaranda Press  65 Park Road, Milton, Queensland. 1979
Reprinted 1981 2nd. Edition 1981
Hard cover, 141 pages, 28 colour plates, 126 b/w photographs, 16 b/w maps/illustrations, appendices.
Only one surfing photograph, but an intensive analysis of the environmental transformation of a classic Australian northeast coastal village. A story repeated ad infinitum around the Australian (and probably everywhere else) coast. 
This was Nancy Cato’s 15th published work.

Caton, John Dean (1812-1895) :
 Houghton, Osgood & Co. Boston. 
The Riverside Press, Cambridge. 1880
Hard cover, 360 pages, Frontpiece (portrait), Index.
Chapter XV Surfbathing at Hilo, on the Island of Hawaii.
Notes of Travel, 1878, pages 242 to 245.

See Source Documents
John Caton : Surfriding at Hilo.

Champion, Shelagh and George :
Bathing, Drowning and Life Saving in Manly, Warringah and Pittwater to 1915
Copyright Shelagh and George Champion, 
14 Tipperary Avenue, Killarney Heights NSW 2087
Published and printed by Book House, Glebe.
Soft cover, 231 pages, 42 black and white photographs / illustrations, References, Bibliography, Illustrations, Index.

Channon, Bruce and McLeod, Hugh, Hynd, Derek : 
Surfing Wild Australia
Surfing World Magazine Pty Ltd (inc. NSW) 
PO Box 128, Mona Vale, NSW 2103. 1984
Hard cover, 124 pages, mostly colour photographs, some b/w photographs, 4 colour illustrations. 
Coffee-table type photo book in Surfing World magazine (post 70’s) style.
Photo selection is questionable: 
Lots of reptile, bird, bugs and flower shots accompanied by generally 'over-the-top' captions. 
The essay (Charter Inroductions) by Derek Hynd concentrates on vivid descriptions of the geography and some historical details - mostly about early Dutch explorations.
Sponsored by Quicksilver (Boardshorts) and Rip Curl (Wetsuits), their products are in evidence throughout the work, but not as intrusive as in the subsequent publication, Surfing the Chain of Fire (1986), below.

Channon, Bruce and McLeod, Hugh, Fitzgerald Terry : 
Surfing the Chain of Fire - In Search of a Lost Dream
Surfing World Magazine Pty Ltd (inc. NSW) 
PO Box 128, Mona Vale, NSW 2103. 1986
Hard cover, 124 pages, mostly colour photographs, some b/w photographs, 4 colour illustrations. 
Coffee-table type photo book in the overblown Surfing World magazine (post 70’s) style – starting with the dramatic collage cover. 
Photo selection is questionable: you want a full double page spread of Gary Green carrying his board through the bush (pages 2-3)? – Have two (pages 60 – 61)! 
Lots of girl, bird, bugs and flower shots and McLeod’s ‘bold’ graphics accompanied by 'over-the-top' captions. 
Disjointed essay by Terry Fitzgerald is of some interest.
This book could be seen as a giant colour advertisement for board-short manufacturer, Billabong (accredited). 

Chase, Linda, Photographs by Elizabeth Pepin:
Surfing - Women of the Waves.
Gibbs Smith, Publisher
PO Box 667, Layton, Utah 84041, 2008. 
Hard cover, 176 pages, colour and  black and white photographs, black and white illustrations, Index. 
A general overview of women's surfing interspersed with a number of individual profiles.

Cheever, Rev. Henry T.:
Life in the Sandwich Islands, or the Heart of the Pacific, as it was and as it is.
A.S. Barnes and Co., New York, 1851.

Open Library

Includes a description and illustration of surf riding at Lahaina, Maui, pages 66 to 69.

See Source Documents:
1851 Rev. Henry Cheever : Surfriding at Lahaina.

Chouinard, Yvon:
Let My People Go Surfing
The Penguin Press, New York, 2005.
Hard cover, pages, Summary, Thank You.
Despite the dramatic line-up photograph on the dust-jacket, the book has little surfing content.
A history of the Patagonia Company followed by chapters devoted to expounding the company's philosophies, including Product Design, Image, Financial, Management and Environment.
The title specifically refers to the company's flexitime policy, whereby employees can take advantage of the best surf or snow conditions.
A son on French-Canadians, when the family moved to California in 1946,
Yvon Chouinard became enamoured with a range of outdoor sports, including surfing.
A c1998 photograph of Chouinard riding a surf-kayak at Ventura Overhead (page 97) notes that this unique eight-foot long 'surf-yak' with three fins was designed with surfboard shaper Greg Liddle in the early 1970s.
Other surfing photographs include Maureen Drummey (page 148), Rell sunn (page 207), Fletcher Pennoyer
Chouinard (page 258), and Gerry Lopez snowboarding (page 156).

The Patagonia-
Chouinard collection of vintage surfboards is impressive, see:
Marcus, Ben: The Surfboard - Art Style Stoke (
Winniman, Jim : Vintage Surfboards (
2008) and The Ultimate Guide to Vintage Surfboards (2013)
Richard: Surf Craft- Design and the Culture of Board Riding (2014)

Christ, Jesus :
The Surfer's Bible : New Testament
Bible Society in Australia Inc
Locked Bag 3, Minto, NSW, 2566
Soft cover, 624 pages, colour images.
Copy donated by James Cater, February, 2004.
Also see
circa 60 Luke : St. Paul's Bay, Malta. 
Extract from The Bible, The Acts of the Apostles,  Chapter 27 Verses 41 to 44, page 190.
Cusick: Surfing for God (2012) below.

Christie, Agatha: 
An Autobiography.
Harper Collins, 
77-85 Fulham Place Road, London,W6 8JB, 1997.
Hard cover, 542 pages, black and white plates, Index..
Reports from the prolific mystery writer, Agatha Christie, provide a unique personal account of sea bathing in England and surfboard riding in Muizenberg, South Africa, and Waikiki in the early 20th century.
During 1922, Christie and husband Archie visited South Africa, were they were introduced to prone surfboard riding at Muizenberg.
 In August they arrived in Honolulu and enthusiastically took to surfboard riding at Waikiki, although the significantly larger boards and surf proved a rigorous test of their new skills.
They persisted with the sport; encouraged by the local beach boys who would tow them out through the break, select a suitable wave, and retrieve lost boards; achieving a level of expertise, "at any rate expert from the European point of view", page 299.

See Source Documents

1922 Agatha Christie : Torquay, Muizenberg, and Waikiki.

Clarke, Peter:
Hell and Paradise - the Norfolk, Bounty, Pitcairn Saga.
Penguin Books Australia Ltd.
487 Maroondah Highway 
PO Box 257 Ringwood
Victoria, 3134, Australia, 1986.
Hard cover, 189 pages, duotone and colour illustrations and photographs, Appencies, Bibliography, Index.

Excellently written and lavishly illustrated book that connects history of the mutiny on the Bounty and the settlements of Norfolk and Pitcairn Islands.
Unfortunately, it is marred by a major error in surfriding history, "Captain Cook had reported that surfing was unknown even in Tahiti", page 91.

Contains a very rare colour print of John Webber's A View of KaraKakooa, in Owyhee, circa 1778, pages 32 to 33.
See Source Documents
Ramsay: Pitcairn Island 1821.

Cleary, William:
Surfing: All the Young Wave Hunters
Signet Books, 1967.
126 pages, 24 pages of black & white photographs with three gatefolds.

Cliff, Paul (editor): 
A Sporting Nation - Celebrating Australia's Sporting Life.
Surfing World Magazine Pty Ltd (inc. NSW)National Library of Australia.
Canberra ACT 2600 Australia, 1999.
Soft cover, pages, extensive black and white and colour illustrations and photographs, Bibliography, Acknowledgements, Index.
The article of interest is Boards, Sand, Togs and Flags, pages 68 to 77, with comments by Bernard 'Midget' Farrelly recorded 30th October, 1984.

Cohen, Stan: 
The Pink Palace - The Royal Hawaiian Hotel.
Pictorial histories Publishing Company
713 South Third West, Missoula, Montana, 1986.
Soft cover, 100 pages, extensive black and white and colour illustrations and photographs, Bibliography.
A general history of the origins, construction and early years of the Royal Hawaiian Hotel on Waikiki Beach.
Apart from several interesting aerial photographs of the hotel and surrounds, there are a number of surfing associated images.
September, 1945, Outrigger Canoe Club surfboard lockers, page 59.
Playing surfboard polo, page 70.
Surfing with sails, Tom Blake and his sailing surfboard, circa 1935, page 70.
Waikiki Beach Patrol, May 1935, page 71.
Surfrers and beachboys with trophies, 1930, Duke Kahanamoku at centre, page 71.
Peter Lawford, November 1934, (aged 12?) page 89.

Colburn, Bolton; Steck, C.R.; Finney, Ben; Wolfe, Tom; Stillman, Deanne and Stallings, Tyler :: Design by Carson, David::
Surf Culture : The Art History of Surfing
Laguna Art Museum 307 Cliff Drive, Laguna Beach, CA 92651-9990
in association with
Ginko Press Inc., 5768 Paradise Drive, Suite J Corte Madera, CA 942925 2002
Soft cover, 240 pages, extensive colour and black and white images.
This book was published as an adjunct to the Surf Culture- The Art History of Surfing exhibition at the Laguna Art Museum and travelling to Honolulu and San Jose in 2003.
An excellent collection of material , however much of it has been previously been reproduced in similar books, for example see Kampion and Schiffer.
In many cases the images have been graphically manipulated and/or are over-layered by large text, which may or may not appeal to the reader. 
There are no page numbers, which makes the work difficult to use as a reference.
1.  Photograph : Jeff Hornbaker, Untitled, 1980, Surfing Magazine Archive - is Peter Drouyn and assymetric twin fin.
2. Photograph : John Severson, Renny Yater at Santa Barbara surf shop, c1955 - definitely not 1955, foam boards indicate circa 1960.

The World Stormrider Surf Guide.

Coleman, Stewart Holmes:
Eddie Would Go
The Story of Eddie Aikau, Hawaiian Hero.
MindRaising Press
PO Box 11391 Honolulu, Hawai'i, 96828-0391, 2001.
Hard cover, 271 pages, colour and black and white plates, black and white photographs, Bibliography, Index, Appendices and Maps.

Coleman, Stewart Holmes:
Fierce Heart
- The Story of Makaha and the Soul of Hawaiian Surfing.
St. Martin's  Press
178 Fifth Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10010, 2009.
Hard cover, 320 pages,black and white photographs, colour plates, Glossary, Bibliography, Index. 
Essentially focused on the Keaulana family (Buffalo and his sons), Rell Sunn and local musician, Israel Kamakawiw'ole.
Of particular interest is Chapter 6, The Birth of the Hokule'a.

Collins, Chris. Illustrated by Webeck, Louise :
The Name of the Game is Surfing
Fairfax Sporting Publications Pty.  Ltd.
80 McLachlan Avenue Rushcutter’s Bay NSW 2011  1992
Soft cover, 63 pages, 4 b/w photographs, extensive black, white and blue illustrations, glossary.
Beginner’s instruction book that competently covers the standard subjects of this type of work. Emphasis on practising paddling skills and manoeuvres useful to the novice. 
History (Where it all began) Chapter 1 and Design (Equipment) in Chapter 2. 
Some illustrations are drawings of widely circulated photographs, e.g. page 5.

Conrick, Chris: 
Northern District Surf Life Saver
Newcastle Branch of the S.L.S.A. (Inc).
Henderson Drive, Merewether Beach, NSW.
PO Box 2333, Merewether, 2991 NSW.1989
Soft cover, 254 pages, black and white photographs and maps, extensive Appendices.
A history of the surf life saving movement in the Newcastle area from 1884 (the first reported shark attack) to 1989 with extensive appendices listing office bearers, recorded rescues, awards and competitive results.
Results includes List Of Club Champions, Medallion Winners, Branch Champions, Junior Results, NSW Carnival Results, Life Members, Surf Boat Results.

Chapter 7: Boats, Boards and Skis is of most interest, pages 95 to 118.

This book and several surfriding quotations initially noted by Dave Kelly, contributing to forum, January 2008.

Conway, John : 
Adventure Sports : Surfing
Salamander Books Ltd., 129 – 137 York Way, 
London N7 9LG, United Kingdom.  1988
Soft cover 127 pages, 132 colour photographs, 24 colour illustrations, glossary, index. 
Well-produced instructional manual from English author/photographer with excellent illustrations (Simon Evans). 
Chapter 2: Basic Equipment includes moulded/ epoxy (?) boards derived form the European sailboard industry.
Pages 49 – 64 are printed twice. 

Cook, James and King, James 
Beaglehole, John C. (editor) :
The Voyage of the Resolution and Discovery 1776 - 1780.
Hakluyt Society, 
The Cambridge University Press
Bentley House, 200 Euston Road London N.W.1. 1967.
Two Volumes. Part 1.

Cook, Joseph J. and Romeika, William J. :
Better Surfing
Kaye and Ward Ltd. 194-200 Bishopsgate, London, E.C.2  1968
Hard cover, 94 pages, 172 black and white photographs, 6 black and white illustrations, Glossary.
Early English juvenile instructional book, originally published as Better Surfing for Boys, 1967. 
Basic text and photographs, the majority apparently shot in England. 
Of some interest is the quality of the boards, notably a finely detailed Greg Noll board, pages 60-61 and elsewhere. 
Some of the more advanced photographs may be Australia (Bobby Brown, page 71 - 78?), but are very blurry.


Cordell, Dave
Photographs by David Edmund-Jones :
Boardsailing in Waves
Fenhurst Books, 13 Fenhurst Road, London, SW6 7JN  1984
Soft cover, 64 pages, extensive black and white  photographs and illustrations.
Specifically aimed at sailboarding in (and on) waves. Some basic design in Chapters 10 and 12.

Cosgrove, Marilyn:
Photographs by Jacqueline Lampe :
The Surfing Kid.
Hodder and Stoughton (Australia) Pty. Ltd.
2 Apollo Place , Lane Cove, NSW,1987.
Soft cover, 48 pages, black and white  photographs.
Junior fiction based around competitive school surfing.

Cralle, Trevor :
The Surfinary – A Dictionary of Surfing Terms and Surfspeak
Ten Speed Press P.O. Box 7123 Berkley, CA 94707  1991
Soft cover, 198 pages, 12 colour plate collages, extensive black and white or two tone photographs, illustrations, cartoons and reprints; appendices, bibliography. 
Comprehensive collection of surfing terms, many with credited sources. Unfortunately these references are often from the work of commentators and not the original source of the term, e.g. Coolite. Surfboard Construction Terms, Appendix B (pages 169 to171) includes wonderful Rick Griffen price list for Greg Noll Surfboards and Surfboard parts, circa 1960. 
Some surfboard design entries lack sufficient data e.g. tri-fin, perhaps illustrations or photographs would better explain design concepts. 
A Brief History of Surfing, pages xxv to xxix, perfunctory but includes Bob Penulas’ cartoon : Wilbur Kookmeyer 1960 to 2015.
Excellent bibliography, selected references and credits, pages 183 to 194.
The inclusion of entries relating to surf music and literature is pleasing.
Artwork highlights :
Rick Griffen pages iii, xvi, xvii, 78, 170, 171.
George Woodbridge (text Al Jaffee) pages xxxii and 192, reprinted from MAD Magazine 1965.
Bob Penulas pages xxviii, xxiix, 38, 66, 85, 129, plate 10, 149, 169.
Honourable mentions :
Jim Phillips and Rick Stover, various pages.
The remainder of the illustrated work is of a high standard and adds significantly to the text.
Surfboard design photographic highlights : Author and first board page xi. History pre 1935 pages xxvi and xxvii. Classic leg rope damage page 37. Santa Cruz Surfing Club Plate #2. Balsa board circa 1950 Plate #3. Maxi-multi fin page 78. Dick Brewer/Surfboards Hawaii 9 ft pintail with offset stringers, circa 1975 page 88. Quads page 84. Rail saver page 96. George Greenough shortboard circa 1970 page 114. Flyer swallow tail page 140. Thruster cluster page 145. Al Merrick tri-plane hull, circa 1974 page 148. Michael Cundith Twin fin #2 with flex-cut fins page 150. Mark Richards’ Twin fin #2 page 150. Jack O’Neill prototype dry suit, Santa Cruz early 1950’s page 160. X fin page 164. The aforementioned Rick Griffen illustrations; Greg Noll Surfboards price list :“ALL BOARDS ARE GLASSED WITH 20 OZ FIBERCLOTH” page 170 and the Surfboard-what you surf with: “NOSE (PLACE TOES HERE)” page 171.
Special mention : Reprint from the Oxford English Dictionary -‘surf’’ page 125.
Cralle, Trevor :
The Surfinary – A Dictionary of Surfing Terms and Surfspeak
Second Edition
Ten Speed Press P.O. Box 7123 Berkley, CA 94707 2001
Soft cover, 362 pages, 8 colour plate pages, extensive black and white or two tone photographs, illustrations, cartoons and reprints; appendices, bibliography.
Greatly expanded second edition of Trevor Cralle's excellent The Sufrinary (1991 - above). 
All the highlights mentioned above seem present, image udates include aerials, tow-in sufring and  Mavericks' big surf. 
Unfortunately this edition is printed on a off-white paper that does not reproduce black and white images to their best definition.
Trevor Cralle welcomes contributions to future editions - Contact.

Crockett, Andrew :
Switch-foot : Surfing Art Music
PH Productions PTE  LTD (Singapore)
Distributed by Billabong, Australia.
Hard cover, 209 pages
Eclectic collection of surfing sources as noted by the title.

Crockett, Andrew :
Switch-foot II
Hodaddy Australia
PH Productions PTE  LTD (Singapore)
Distributed by Billabong, Australia.???
Hard cover, 369 pages
A beautifully presented book, while similar in format to Volume I above, this a far superior work.
One of the many highlights is the rare and famous "in the tube" photograph of Russell Hughes at Point Cartwright circa 1965 by George Greenough, page 30.
Originally published as a Surfer magazine poster, it was the first of the series to be sold-out.

Crowe, Ellie and Waldrep, Richard:
Surfer of the Century
Lee and Low Books Inc.
95 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10016.
Hard cover, 50 pages (unpaginated), colour illustrations. Illustrations by Richard Waldrep
Basic account of the life and achievements of Duke Kahanamoku largely based on Brennan (1994) and Hall and Ambrose (1995).
The majority of the full page illustrations are colourised versions of widely printed black and white photographs.
The cover surfing illusrtation, which appears to be based on a photograph of Mark Richards on the North Shore circa 1978, is an obvious exception.

Curby, Pauline :
A Pictorial History of Cronulla
Kingclear Books
3/77 Willoughby Road,
Crows Nest, NSW 2065.
Soft cover, 119 pages, black and white photographs, maps, advertising reproductions, Select Bibliography, Index.

Curby, Pauline :
Seven Miles from Sydney - A History of Manly
Manly Council, 1 Belgrave Street, Manly, NSW 2095.
Printed by Headland Press, Brookvale, Sydney.
Soft cover, 300 pages, duo-tone and black and white photographs, Notes, Bibliography, Index.
Extensively researched and professionally written book that has  essential contributions to surfing history.
Chapters 7 and 8 concentrate on early surfing culture.
Particularly enlightening is the section that firmly debunks the myth of William Gocher's campaign to legalise daylight bathing. 
The story is invariably retold in almost every book or documentary that deals with Australian surfing history.
This import research is included in the Source Documents Menu as...
Pauline Curby : The Myth of William Gocher

Curby, Pauline :
Freshie -
UNSW Press
University of NSW, Sydney, NSW 2052.
Soft cover, 279 pages, duotone, black and white and colour photographs and illustrations, Appendicies, Notes, Selected Bibiography, Abbreviations, Index.
Professionally  researched and written work with relatively small sections relating to surfboard riding.
Early surfboard use from 1910 to Duke Kahanamoku's visit in 1914-1915 is described on pages 45 to 51.
In the 1950s, boards and surf skis are discussed on pages 125 to 131, notably Dave Jackman and Don Henderson's riding the Queenscliff Bombora in 1958 on the recently adopted Malibu boards.
Details on surfboats are scattered throughout the book starting from the club's first boat circa 1916, page 56.

Cusick, Michael John:
Surfing for God: Discovering the Divine Desire Beneath Sexual Struggle
Thomas Nelson Publishers, 2012.
Paperback, 224 pages, black & white illustrations
(Unread) Another unfortunate example of surfing used to mean exploring the internet.

Backed by Scripture, Cusick uses examples from his own life and from his twenty years of counseling experience to show us how the pursuit of empty pleasure is really a search for our heart's deepest desire- and the real key to resistance is discovering and embracing the joy we truly want.
Cusick's insights help readers understand how porn struggles begin, what to do to prevent them, and most importantly, how to overcome the compulsion once it begins.
In the end, this powerful book shows us all how the barrier built by porn addiction can become a bridge to abundant life.


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Geoff Cater (1999-2021) : References : Books : C