home catalogue history references appendix

Click for catalogue, starting with # 100- Duke
                  Kahanamoku's 1914 Alia 
 the x-files : surf extremis incredibilus 

Extreme Surfing     Extreme Surfboards  Motorised Surfboards

# 92
        Hot Buttered/Frank Williams 1973
After paddling into the wave, then slipping his oars,  this goofy-foot steersman casually controls the direction of his craft with body english.
Photo : John E. Wall.                 Surfer, Volume 18 Number 4 November 1977 page 127

Look closely at David Nuuhiwa's speed crouch, then look underneath.

That's right, he is in perfect trim with his surfboard upside down.
Fin up, no wax, reverse rocker : Silly? Definitely.
Dangerous? Could be.
Easy? No way.

Attention thrillseekers: Nuuhiwa is a trained, professional surfer:
Please don't attempt this at your home break.

Photo: LeRoy Grannis.

Surfer, Volume 30 Number 10 page 34.

Palm Beach Surf Life Saving Boat
Cabbage Tree 1,Fairy Bower, 27th March, 1966.

Captain : John Windshuttle

Brawley, page 148.
The boat was destroyed two waves later,
and an inquiry was held by the club into the actions of the crew.

Shooting the 'Bowl' at Makaha required that the
alma (outrigger)
 be specially rigged on the right side.

Makaha, circa 1976.
Photograph : Tommy Holmes' collection.
Holmes  Hawaiian Canoe (1993) page 108.

In the aftermath of a wipeout, an empty 30-foot canoe stands
on one end of a Castles wave.

Waikiki, circa 1978.
Photograph : Jim Pate
Holmes  Hawaiian Canoe (1993) page 108

Plywood surfing, Barbados, circa 1988.

Photograph by Dave DiGirolamo
No quite a barn door, but close.
Surfer, Volume 29 Number 12 page 113.

Hasaki, Israel, circa 1962.

Photograph courtesy of the Israel Government Tourist Office.

Klein: Surfing (1965) page 259.

Joel de Rosnay, Tamarin Bay, Mauritius, 1962.
Photo: Yep de Rosnay

Sutherland, Bruce:

The Stormrider Surf Guide Indonesia & the Indian Ocean
Low Pressure Publishing, United Kingdom, 2011, page 16.

Ricky Grigg rides
Sunset Beach on a somewhat windy day, 1963.
 Surfer, Volume 4 Number 4, August-September 1963, back page.

Hawaiian Surfriders by Jantzen:
There are some things that only a surfer knows, and those who stay dry will never get it.
That's why surfers stick together.
They talk mostly to-each other, because there's no use wasting words on those who have never lived.
Above is Sunset beach on a somewhat windy day.
Below are the Jantzen Hawaiian Surfriders, available for 5.95 and 7.95.
Rick Grigg helped us make certain that they're right.
Tough fabric, easy fit in the seat and legs, strong buttons, thong ties, or zippers.
Button-down wax pockets on the hip.
Talk to your surfing buddies.
They'll get it.
sportswear for sportsmen

A highly unusual full page advertisement in marked contrast to the idyllic images that largely dominate surfing publications.
Note the confused swell, chop, and rips in the inside channel.

... captured by Alfred Muldendo (sp?)
Palos Verde Penisular

v17 n2 1976 July page5

Riding fin first.
California, 1990.
(found online, 2015)

Clive Howard, Joe Whitley:
One Damned Island After Another: The Saga of the Seventh
The University of North Carolina,1946.
Clive Howard and Joe Whitley were both sergeants and served as correspondents for the Seventh Air Force.
They fought at Midway, Guadalcanal, Tarawa, Kwajalein, Eniwetok, Truk, Saipan, Palau, the Philippines,
Iwo Jima, and finally Tokyo.

Page 206:
Killing time on Saipan.
GI mattress covers make efficient surfboards.

extreme surfboard designs
Nat Young’s “Nautilas / Cuttlefish / Folly”
8 ft 6”
With Greenough spoon like nose, foam centre and flex tail.
Manufactured at
Gordon Woods Surfboards 1965.
In 2005 the board was part of the Scott Dillon Museum.
Extensive warping of the nose section, the board is in otherwise original condition.

Photograph by Alby Falzon.

Reprinted in Carter (1968)   #117

Ashley Spoon, 1976.
Highly unusual flex spoon with tension panels (?) by Ashley
Surcrafts, later Ashley Kneeboards.
17 Anderson Street, Torquay, Victoria.


Surf-Sled, 1975.
Gary Lenehan supplied the images in October 2019 and noted:

Not sure if you’d be interested but found this unusual craft revealed after recent bushfires up our way (Brooms Head/Angourie area), thought you or others might know what it is aside from it appears to be a kneeling surfboard or wave board type of thing.
Hope you can help.

I have no knowledge of this craft and suggested that is perhaps closer to a surf-ski, designed to be paddled in a kneeling position, possibly with a two bladed paddle.
Looks to be moulded plastic, the fin box looks circa 1974, and
maybe there were adhesive labels.
The name Surf Sled was applied simply to allocate a file name.

Motor Powered Surfboards

Surf Scooter
, Bondi Beach, circa 1935.

Margan and Finney (1970) page 159

It's a Skim-Board, Sydney, 1938.
Flat out on a skim-board. It's the latest, but no good for crowded beaches.
It weighs 90 lb., is nine feet long, folds into four sections, is driven
by a four horse-power outboard, and does 20 miles an hour.
Daily Telegraph, 7 October 1938, page 7.

Hobie Alter and Motorised Surfboard,
California, circa 1965.

Surf Jet 236SS Motorised Surfboard
In the 1980's George Carter came up with his Surfjet.
Fuji Heavy Industries Ltd 250cc 2 -stroke motor.
2 cylinder putting out 17hp.

Also see:


Motorized board with its inventor.

That's right folks, the $2,000 surfboard; a 10'6': fifty-pound behemoth propelled by two expensive nicad batteries.
Neil Townsend, the creator of Aqua Jet honeycomb surfboards, developed the board for his personal use, because a permanent heart condition would have otherwise entirely ended the 63-year-old Townsend's surfing.

Neil has ridden the board in surf up to ten feet in California and Hawaii.

Powered by a propeller, the board is activated when the rider lays on the control pad, and stops when he stands up.
The board moves forward as fast as a strong paddler can paddle an equivalent-sized board.

At present, the impact of this design is of little consequence on surfing, but as Neil points out; the power cells being developed are lighter, more powerful and cheaper than the ones he is using.
In ten years, his extensive research may payoff for you or me.

And who's to say -one day we may see powered boards at Sunset or Waimea Bay flying through impossible sections on those big, unsurfable offshore days.

Surfer, Volume 22 Number 3 page 58, circa 1982.

Porpoises rescue Dick Van Dyke
Mary Poppins star feared death after apparently falling asleep on his surfboard but friendly sea creatures pushed him to shore

On screen, Dick Van Dyke has been rescued from untimely death by flying cars and magical nannies.
Off screen, the veteran star of Chitty Chitty Bang Bang and Mary Poppins had to rely on the help of a pod of porpoises after apparently dozing off aboard his surfboard.
“I’m not kidding,” he said afterwards.

Van Dyke’s ordeal began during an ill-fated trip to his local beach.
“I woke up out of sight of land,” the 84-year-old actor told Craig Ferguson on his TV chat show.
“I started paddling with the swells and I started seeing fins swimming around me and I thought ‘I’m dead!’”

Van Dyke was wrong.
“They turned out to be porpoises,” he said.
“And they pushed me all the way to shore.”
The porpoises were unavailable for comment.

extreme surfboard fins

Click for catalogue, starting with # 100- Duke
          Kahanamoku's 1914 Alia
home catalogue history references appendix

Geoff Cater (1999-2022) :  Appendix: surf extremis incredibilus