the x-files : surf extremis incredibilus
Look closely at David Nuuhiwa's speed crouch, then look underneath.
That's right, he is in perfect trim with his surfboard upside down.
Fin up, no wax, reverse rocker : Silly? Definitely.
Dangerous? Could be.
Easy? No way.
Attention thrillseekers: Nuuhiwa is a trained, professional surfer:
Please don't attempt this at your home break.
Photo: LeRoy Grannis.
Surfer, Volume 30 Number 10 page 34.
Palm Beach Surf Life Saving Boat
Cabbage Tree 1,Fairy Bower, 27th March, 1966.
Captain : John Windshuttle
Brawley, page 148.
The boat was destroyed two waves later,
and an inquiry was held by the club into the actions of the crew.
Shooting the 'Bowl' at Makaha required that the alma (outrigger)
be specially rigged on the right side.
Makaha, circa 1976.
Photograph : Tommy Holmes' collection.
Holmes Hawaiian Canoe (1993) page 108.
In the aftermath of a wipeout, an empty 30-foot canoe stands
on one end of a Castles wave.
Waikiki, circa 1978.
Photograph : Jim Pate
Holmes Hawaiian Canoe (1993) page 108
Plywood surfing, Barbados, circa 1988.
Photograph by Dave DiGirolamo
No quite a barn door, but close.
Surfer, Volume 29 Number 12 page 113.
Hasaki, Israel, circa 1962.
Photograph courtesy of the Israel Government Tourist Office.
Klein: Surfing (1965) page 259.
Joel de Rosnay, Tamarin Bay, Mauritius, 1962.
Photo: Yep de Rosnay
The Stormrider Surf Guide Indonesia & the Indian Ocean
Low Pressure Publishing, United Kingdom, 2011, page 16.
Ricky Grigg rides Sunset Beach on a somewhat windy day, 1963.
Surfer, Volume 4 Number 4, August-September 1963, back page.
Hawaiian Surfriders by Jantzen:
There are some things that only a surfer knows, and those who stay dry will never get it.
That's why surfers stick together.
They talk mostly to-each other, because there's no use wasting words on those who have never lived.
Above is Sunset beach on a somewhat windy day.
Below are the Jantzen Hawaiian Surfriders, available for 5.95 and 7.95.
Rick Grigg helped us make certain that they're right.
Tough fabric, easy fit in the seat and legs, strong buttons, thong ties, or zippers.
Button-down wax pockets on the hip.
Talk to your surfing buddies.
They'll get it.
sportswear for sportsmen
A highly unusual full page advertisement in marked contrast to the idyllic images that largely dominate surfing publications.
Note the confused swell, chop, and rips in the inside channel.
Riding fin first.
(found online, 2015)
|Clive Howard, Joe
One Damned Island After Another: The Saga of the Seventh
The University of North Carolina,1946.
Clive Howard and Joe Whitley were both sergeants and served as correspondents for the Seventh Air Force.
They fought at Midway, Guadalcanal, Tarawa, Kwajalein, Eniwetok, Truk, Saipan, Palau, the Philippines,
Iwo Jima, and finally Tokyo.
Killing time on Saipan.
GI mattress covers make efficient surfboards.
|Nat Young’s “Nautilas / Cuttlefish /
8 ft 6”
With Greenough spoon like nose, foam centre and flex tail.
Manufactured at Gordon Woods Surfboards 1965.
In 2005 the board was part of the Scott Dillon Museum.
Extensive warping of the nose section, the board is in otherwise original condition.
Photograph by Alby Falzon.
Reprinted in Carter (1968) #117
|Ashley Spoon, 1976.
Highly unusual flex spoon with tension panels (?) by Ashley Surcrafts, later Ashley Kneeboards.
17 Anderson Street, Torquay, Victoria.
Gary Lenehan supplied the images in October 2019 and noted:
Not sure if you’d be interested but found this unusual craft revealed after recent bushfires up our way (Brooms Head/Angourie area), thought you or others might know what it is aside from it appears to be a kneeling surfboard or wave board type of thing.
Hope you can help.
I have no knowledge of this craft and suggested that is perhaps closer to a surf-ski, designed to be paddled in a kneeling position, possibly with a two bladed paddle.
Looks to be moulded plastic, the fin box looks circa 1974, and maybe there were adhesive labels.
The name Surf Sled was applied simply to allocate a file name.
Surf Scooter, Bondi Beach, circa 1935.
Margan and Finney (1970) page 159
|It's a Skim-Board, Sydney,
Flat out on a skim-board. It's the latest, but no good for crowded beaches.
It weighs 90 lb., is nine feet long, folds into four sections, is driven
by a four horse-power outboard, and does 20 miles an hour.
Daily Telegraph, 7 October 1938, page 7.
|Hobie Alter and Motorised
California, circa 1965.
|Motorized board with its inventor.
That's right folks, the $2,000 surfboard; a 10'6': fifty-pound behemoth propelled by two expensive nicad batteries.
Neil Townsend, the creator of Aqua Jet honeycomb surfboards, developed the board for his personal use, because a permanent heart condition would have otherwise entirely ended the 63-year-old Townsend's surfing.
Neil has ridden the board in surf up to ten feet in California and Hawaii.
Powered by a propeller, the board is activated when the rider lays on the control pad, and stops when he stands up.
The board moves forward as fast as a strong paddler can paddle an equivalent-sized board.
At present, the impact of this design is of little consequence on surfing, but as Neil points out; the power cells being developed are lighter, more powerful and cheaper than the ones he is using.
In ten years, his extensive research may payoff for you or me.
And who's to say -one day we may see powered boards at Sunset or Waimea Bay flying through impossible sections on those big, unsurfable offshore days.
Surfer, Volume 22 Number 3 page 58, circa 1982.