bob cooper : magic, 1970
After a guy comes
the water really ripping, you look at his board - like his
board with it's
latest concave, straight hard edge twangy fin, pin line fine
rub out, like
this was the magic, this was the thing that had it all.
This obscure fellow just had the luck to acquire the object; this piece of machinery.
Kids come into my
and say "I want a stick exactly like number one hot in the
The kid has no resemblance whatsoever in his total character, total physical (sic , possibly physique) to No.1 hot in the area, but it's amazing how the board will improve him.
Guys come in and
got the latest twangy fin, I've put it in my oid board and it
makes a world
You watch the guy on the old board with the new fin.
He doesn't seem to be improved that much.
Yet you can tell there is a spark there, that he is firing on a few more cylinders than he was last time.
Now is it the new fin or the fact that his old board with the new fin has has acquired a new personality.
Not that it's speed or manoeuvrability has been improved markedly, but there is a new feeling that's being generated up through the bottom of his feet, ankles, knees, pelvis, spinal, neck, 'BOING' ... and he thinks it's the fin, or he knows it's the fin or he doesn't care.
He's got a new feeling, I suppose it's cheaper to get your thrills out of changing fins than buying a whole new board.
What I am getting at is; Phil Edwards' board with Phil on it, was the ultimate package at one time.
By the way Phil's board name was "BABY", in conversation he reffered (sic, refered) to it as "BABY", and never qualified it as "Baby" my surfboard.
Me and "Baby" went down to the trestles (sic,The Tresltes, a noted Californian surf break) or I took "BABY" out etc. etc.
I think he's still got the board.
Nat rode it, he can tell you the board had a little magic in it, I think Midget might have also - no matter.
So as a person who's
in the business trying to make a better board for a customer,
of the mental preparation which is a good 75% of selling a
board and assuring
it's going to be appreciated for a while.
You've got to let him know just what it is you have done to this board that will make it a better board than the one he's been riding.
I am forced by competition to come up with something - new.
That's easy enough to do, but it's got to be above all a better idea or they'll crucify you.
With the multi boardies in Brookvale and the back yarders everywhere there are a lot of ideas flying around.
By in large everybody is on the same trip (a better board will make you more money).
Magic in boards is
you can't break down into mathematics or tangible forms.
(For) Example ads. sell you dreams.
Read them carefully they all say the same thing, they all try to bring you their way by appealing to a dream situation or a wish fulfilment.
How many boards are sold because of the intensive add (sic, ad) campaigns.
This extends into the riding and designing, into everything not just boards.
It's an appeal to the ego that suggests you're not quite whole unless you are associated with this thing.
Magic is what you
happen for you but nobody else can feel or experience it.
A good brainwash can do magic.
If you believe strong and long whatever it is can come to pass.
A personal command of yourself can be used in driving the physical you, anywhere you want to go.
Determination, awareness, humility, a very important one.
Unless you are humble you can't learn anything, you have to be teachable and open to new ideas and at the same time know if they are going to apply to you - if not, reject them and go on to another.
In surfing, who
ever thought (of) 360's in 1965? reverse fin take-off's in
in 1959? 10 second tip rides in 1952, a 10 lb. board in 1965?
A 6' board in 1968? 30' waves in 1945, fins in 1948? a fun day at Stanley's in 1960?
These were all thought of and accomplished, but in their own times.
Before that; dreams and impossibles.
Magic is a morning
you wake up and it's going to be right all day and you know
Your head is clear the sun shines, your favourite breakfast, no dishes to do, the car starts, is full of gas, tuned up, and your favourite sounds blair (sic, blare) from the twin cones (at the beginning) of the stereo.
When you spot the sea you see a swell and when you arrive there's parking place close by and the (parking) meter is out of order, you've got a new bar of wax and the board is the best you've ever owned.
The wind is glassy to off-shore and a guy up and lays $10.00 on you he's owed for 5 months.
Sand is warm, your favourite people are the only ones in the water and it's perfect and the water's just a little colder than the air. You paddle out and it's a hollow right or left wall and the others are sliding the lefts, you make it out to the line up and the hair is still dry, you're in time for the set of the day and you just know it's coming up ...Man if you pearl blow it on the first wave.
Hang it up you've had more than your quota for the day.
When a guy changes
brand new 6' board for an identical 6'1 and rides it better
A new V. W. camper is magic unless you can afford Motels.
A craze in designs creates magic if enough people believe in it, spoons, flex noses, rubber band fins, concaves, round bottoms, 6 inch Vee's - at one time the whole community swore by them - Mass hysteria?
Yes(,) but I am considering for this article anything that's a headtrip, as magic.
Where can it come together, the mental, the physical and the the natural desire for a better, bigger, faster, hotter everything.
Where in (sic, is) surfing anyway?
Why even write about it - the problem is a basic human weakness.
How much is physical, how much is mental?
How much is pre-conditioning, how much is structural?
This depends on all these factors and the particular weight they have on you at the time you are forced to consider them.
But I do feel there was something magical about "BABY".
It was a good board, one of the best boards... Ever?