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duke kahanamoku : freshwater 1914

Duke Kahanamoku's First Surfboard Demonstration.
Freshwater, 24th December 1914.
Newspaper Extracts : 24th December 1914 - 30th December 1914.

The Sun
24 th December 1914 Page 6. (1)

WONDERFUL SURF RIDING
KAHANAMOKU ON THE BOARD.
A THRILLING SPECTACLE
( BY W. F. CORBETT.) (2)

One could hear , in the imagination the roars of applause with which thousands of Australians might have greeted Kahanamoku 's display at Freshwater, Manly, this morning , had the fact that it was to take place been made public. (3)
As it was there were only a few pressmen, some members of the New South Wales Amateur Swimming Association, and the casual Freshwater bathers present. (4)
The Hawaiian confined his show to riding the breakers with the aid of a board (5), such as been used in his native islands from time immemorial. (6)

There are surfboards in the Honolulu Museum - narrow ones, 20ft. in length, and hoary with age. (7)
But the Hawaiian of today enjoys what is. perhaps, the most exhilira-ating (sic) and exciting water sport known with the assistance of a much shorter aid - one about eight or nine feet long, 2ft. across, and weighing , perhaps 68lb.
The board used by Kahanamoku weighed 78lb, and was sugar pine.

He would have preferred redwood , but a properly seasoned piece of that particular timber , sufficiently long, could not be procured in Sydney.
The necessary shape is almost that of a coffin lid, with one end cut to very nearly a point.
The surf riding board is thicker at the bottom than at the top, tapering all the way. (8)

Kahanamoku's control of the improvisation was wonderful, he handled it like a toy and went out fully a quarter of a mile, riding some breakers and dashing through others with such speed that he completely mystified Messers. W. W. Hill and Hoy (8a), who entered the water with him.
Mr Hoy can throw a 100 yards behind in little more than a minute.
Not at any time in the race seaward did either of the swimmers hold the islander for a moment, and he soon away by himself. (9)
The Duke lay flat upon the board, and with arms widespread, paddled his own canoe vigorously. (10)

Unfortunately the water was not favorable.
Kahanamoku would have preferred a long roll.
He had to face a very short one.

"I'll do my best, anyhow," said he, and despite that the board was new to him , and he had never before essayed the task in Australian waters, (11) our visitor gave an exhibition which won the admiration of spectators who thoroughly understood the skill of it. (12)
It was a thrilling spectacle at times.
This finely-built Hawaiian, with his powerful frame showing elastic muscles, as better and more enduring than those of a knotty nature, caught the breaker he wanted , and paddling along for a while rose to one knee first, then became gradually erect (13.) and reached the crest to shoot foreword with astonishing speed and marvellous balance considering the troubled condition (14) of the motive power.

When the force beneath him was spent, he plunged into the sea, and picking up his board went off to try again.
Always was the nose of the raft (10), if it might be so called, kept tilted upwards, whether while shooting or forced against the breakers.
When the surf rider found his board hanging he stooped and paddled till it darted forward once more. (15)
Twice he managed to traverse 100 yards or more, and several times 20 or 30 yards were covered. (16)

It could easily be understood what a display surf riding must be in the ocean which laves (sic) Waikiki Beach at Honolulu, where a long roll can almost be depended upon.
There 300 and 400 yards shoots are common.
Kahanamoku does not profess to be a champion when in his island home, but he is, he says as good as the very best there. (17)
The ease and grace of his shooting might be equalled, but it certainly could not be excelled.
As showing how much second nature it was to him, Kahanamoku stood on his head a couple of times, and even turned his back to the direction in which he was going, and posed. (18)
Lying flat on the board, the Hawaiian caused it to describe a half-circle or turn completely round without spoiling the shoot. (19, 20)

Notes
1. A first hand account, written and published on the day of the event.

2. Reporter W. F. Corbett joined The Referee, (a Sydney sporting paper) in 1888, where he reported boxing, swimming, lawn bowls and both codes of rugby.
He moved to the Sydney Sun in 1913. (Source -Rabbitoh Warren)
After a journalistic career of 37 years, he died in 1923, aged 67.
(Source -the Bulletin, Sydney, 1 November, 1923)

3. The opening sentence implicitly criticized NSW Swimming officials who prevented the demonstration scheduled for the previous day, much to the disappointment of an a crowd estimated between 2000 - 3000 people.
See Corbett's report, The Sun, December 23, 1914, page 5.

4. Only a small number of obsevers were present, compared to the large crowds reported, and shown in photographs, of later demonstrations.

5. The demonstration was with the board only, apparently enthusiasts were also anxious to see Duke Kahanamoku's body surfing skills.

6. The ancient origins of board riding is noted, information probably provided (and emphasised) by Duke Kahanamoku.

7. The boards reported as held by the Bishop Museum probably refers to those ridden at Wakiki in the 1830's by high chief Abner Paki and eventually restored by Tom Blake in the late 1920's.
See #502

8. The specifications appear very close to being correct, unlike many subsequent versions.
Note the misreporting of specifications in SMH report of 25th December.
The weights of the Freshwater board and Duke Kahanamoku's reported Hawaiian board appears reasonable.
The Freshwater board was made from imported sugar pine, which had some use for surfboard construction in Hawaii in this period.

8a. Hoy, possibly a printers error for Harry Hay.

9. Demonstrated a surfboard's paddling superiority over swimming.

10. Several various terms are used - board, surf riding board, canoe and raft.
The term surf board is not used

11. This demonstration is noted as Duke Kahanamoku's first test of board and Australian waves.
Doubt that Hawaiian boardriding was possible in local waves had been previously expressed by Australian swimming and/or surfing officials .
Evidently, Duke Kahanamoku did not.
It would also seem unlikely that he had not body surfed in Australia before this date.

12. The reporter demonstrates some surf knowledge, particularly in noting the unsuitability of the conditions.
More importantly he notes the knowledge of the spectators "who thoroughly understood the skill of it."

13. The importance of wave choice and rudimentary take-off instructions.

14. Probably refers to a uneven swell or even choppy surface conditions, as indicated by photograph by the Daily Telegraph, 25th December, 1914.
Image below.
There is no estimation of wave height.

15. Further rudimentary instructions...
- the dismount
- keeping the nose elevated when paddling and riding.
- adjusting stance to maintain trim

16. Appears to indicate cutting- that isangling across the wave, as opposed to riding straight towards the beach.
Rides of 100 yards are considered substantial by modern standards.

17. While aware of his own abilities, Duke Kahanamoku indicates that his skills are not exceptional and are attainable by others.

18. A spectatular demonstration of skill.

19. The manoeuvre "Lying flat on the board, the Hawaiian caused it to describe a half-circle or turn completely round without spoiling the shoot." appears to describe a prone spinner, a manoeuvre popularized by Boogie boarders, circa 1980.
Possibly performed in the white water (wave of transition), and also noted in the SMH report of 25th December. is not mentioned in any other contemporary accounts of surfing.
"He turned completely round, then lying flat on the board, he raised himself on his hands and swung the board from front to back and back to front, finally again standing straight up." .
.
20. Although often noted in later reports, there is no mention of tandem riding, Isobel Letham or the Manly surfboat.

The Daily Telegraph
Friday 25 th December 1914 page 7.

ACROBATICS IN THE SURF.

DUKE KAHANAMOKU, THE HAWAIIAN SWIMMER,
RIDING THE BREAKERS ON A BOARD AT FRESHWATER YESTERDAY.

The exhibition was arranged by Mr. W. W. Hill, for the benefit of representatives of the press.
The board used by Kahanamoku was 8ft. in length, 3ft. in width (sic), 100 lb. in weight and narrowed at one end.
Going out into the water some distance, the Hawaiian laid full length on the board, and, waiting for an inrolling wave, he propelled himself beachwards with his hands.
As the roller gathered momentum, he raised himself on to his knees, then stood up, and rode gracefully for a considerable distance.
The conditions were not what Kahanamoku desired.
The breakers came over too quickly, instead of in a long roll.
On one occassion, however, Kahanamoku negotiated fully 200 yards before he turned. He also performed some acrobatics, and once stood on his head on the board.
Several enthusiastic surfers amoungst the spectactors endeavored to emulate the feats of the Hawaiian, but mostly the board either shot from under them or turned over.
Notes
1. Reporter unknown.
2. This demonstration is noted as the first. It appears to be a test of Australian waves, board and rider, and was not greatly publicised. There have may been some doubt by Australian swimming and/or surfing officials that Hawaiian boardriding was possible in local waves. Evidently, Duke Kahanamoku did not.
3. The reporter demonstrates some surf knowledge, particually in noting the unsuitablity of the conditions.
4. The width of 3ft is obviously incorrect aqd the weight is reported as 100lb. Compare ....
- 78lb, and Hawaiian model 68lb (the Sun )
- 100lb, and Hawaiian model 25lb (the Herald)
5. The enthusiasm of local surfers who immediately attempted to ride the board.
6. There is no mention of tandem riding, Isobel Letham or the Manly surfboat.

Sydney Morning Herald
25th December 1914 page 7.

SURF- BOARD RIDING. KAHANAMOKU'S DISPLAY
At the invitation of the N.S.W Amateur Swimming Association a number of newspaper
representatives, accompanied some of the officials to witness an exhibition of surf-board riding by
Duke Paoa Kahanamoku, the world's champion sprint swimmer, at Freshwater yesterday (Thursday
24th December 1914).
It was Kahanamoku's first attempt at surf-board riding in Australia, and it must be admitted it was
wonderfully clever.
The conditions were against good surfboard-riding.
The waves were of the 'dumping' order and followed closely one on top of another.
According to the champion, board-riding on the Waikiki Beach, Honolulu, is a pleasure and there it is
possible to shoot in over a quarter of a mile (600 yards - 500 metres).
Then too, Kahanamoku was at disadvantage with the board.
It weighted almost 100lb (pounds - x kilograms), whereas the board he uses as a rule weighs less than 25lb (25 pounds - x kilograms).
But, withal, he gave a magnificent display, which won the cordial reponse of the onlookers.

Kahanamoku entered the water with the board accompanied by Mr. W. W. Hill (Secretary of the
Australian Swimming Union) and some members of the Freshwater Surf Club. Lying flat on the board
and using his arms like paddles the champion soon left the swimmers far behind.
When he was about 400 yards out he waited for a suitable breaker, swung the board round and came
in with it.
Once fairly started, Kahamamoku knelt on the board, and then stood straight up, the nose of the
board being well out of the water.
But the force of the breakers never carried him more than 50 yards.
On a couple of occassions he managed to shoot fully 100 yards and then he cleverly demonstrated
what could be done.
He turned completely round, then lying flat on the board, he raised himself on his hands and swung
the board from front to back and back to front, finally again standing straight up.

If the condition of the water is favourable when Kahanamoku makes his public appearance in
surfboard riding in Sydney it is sure to be keenly appreciated.

Notes
1. Reporter unknown.

2. This demonstration is noted as the first. It appears to be a test of Australian waves, board and rider, and was
not greatly publicised.
There have may been some doubt by Australian swimming and/or surfing officials that Hawaiian boardriding was possible in local waves. Evidently, Duke Kahanamoku did not.

3. The reporter demonstrates some surf knowledge, particually in noting the unsuitablity of the conditions.

4. The difference in weight between the Freshwater board and Duke Kahanamoku's reported Hawaiian board
is questionable, unless the latter was of Koa, a lightweight native timber.
The Freshwater board was made from imported sugar pine, which was in use that for surfboard construction in Hawaii in this period.

5. Demonstrated a surfboard's paddling superioity over swimming.

6. The manoeuvre "He turned completely round, then lying flat on the board, he raised himself on his hands
and swung the board from front to back and back to front, finally again standing straight up." is unclear but
seems to describe a prone spinner, a manoeuvre popularized by Boogie boarders, circa 1980.
Possibly performed in the white water (wave of transition), it is not mentioned in any other comtemporary accounts of
surfing.

7. There is no mention of tandem riding, Isobel Letham or the Manly surfboat.

The Referee
30 December 1914, page 16.

SWIMMING : Kahanamoku in 100yds Championship
: by CECIL HEALY
KAHANAMOKU AND SURF BOARD Representatives of the Press were invited to witness a private exhibition of surf-board riding by Kahanamoku at Freshwater on Thursday.
It was to have been the previous day, but the intention accidentally became public property, and as several thousand people were attracted to the vicinity, Association officials decided to postpone it. Business considerations, unfortunately, prevented the writer from being present.
Freshwater enjoys the reputation of being, on the whole, the best beach for shootable breakers, but the conditions, I understand, were far from being ideal on that particular day.
The waves, for instance, were breaking too lose to the shore to permit of a good "run' being obtained, and, moreover, were of the "dumping" variety; also the board itself, which was made locally, was not exactly what was required.
It weighed in the neighbourhood of 100lb, whereas those in use at Honolulu are only a quarter that weight.
However, despite the disadvantages mentioned, the Duke succeeded in assuming the perpendicular, and negotiating several shoots in his familiar poster attitude.
One one occasion, whilst laying flat on the board, with a deft movement he swung the board right about, and proceeded backwards for a while before repeating the action and facing shorewards again.
A number of our leading surfers were spectators of the display, and from what I can gather the general impression amoungst them was that he did wonderfully well under the circumstances, but they feel sure it merely amounted to an indication of what he is capable of doing under more favorable conditions.
They have no doubt that when he has the opportunity to adapt himself to the vagaries of our surf, and strikes a suitable day, he will be able to do things of a really sensational nature.
The dextrous manner in which he handled the heavy board when taking it out through the breakers would appear to have greatly suprised the Sydney men.

Record entries have been received for the year's State championships.
Two are to be decided at the initial carnival, which is to be held at the Domain Baths next Saturday afternoon, namely the 100yds and 880yds.
The Olympic champion, Duke Kahanamoku, and his brilliant travelling companion, George Cunha, are competing in the former event.
It will be their first public appearance in competition.
Incidentally, it will consitute the first occasion that an overseas champion has ever raced in Australia.

Autographed Postcard, Feb 11, 1915.
E. S. Marks was prominant in Sydney sports.
Sydney's premier athletic track is named
The E.S. Marks Field.
Postcard reproduced from private collection.

concave
A depressed area on the bottom of the surfboard. California board designer Bob Simmons experimented with longitudinal concave in the 1950' s, on the premise that the indented section would trap air and "lift" the board, increasing speed. But concave didn't really catch on as a design feature until the mid-'60s, when it was put into the board's nose section as an aid to noseriding. The Ego-Builder Concave by Del Cannon Surfboards was one such model. The bonzer design, introduced in 1972, had twin concaves down the board's middle and tail sec- tions; the concave was reinvented yet again in the mid-'90S as the "single-to-double" (a shallow but wide indentation in the middle of the board leading to a pair of lateral con caves in the tail area), generally thought to be one of the decade's most significant design advances, improving both speed and turning characteristics. See also reverse vee.