surfresearch.com.au  bingham : surf riding, hawai'i, 1821

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Hiram Bingham  : Surf Riding in Hawai'i, 1821.

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Bingham, Hiram:
Extracts from the Journal of Mr. Bingham, while at Atooi.
Mission at the Sandwich Islands.
The Missionary Herald
American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions
August 1822 Volume XVIII, page 242.

Subsequently edited, revised, and published as
Bingham, Hiram:
A Residence Of Twenty-one Years In The Sandwich Islands,
Or, The Civil, Religious, And Political History Of Those Islands.
Hezekiah Huntington, Hartford CT;1847
Sherman Converse, New York, 1847
Chapter VI, 1821,  pages 136 and 137.

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In early September (or October), Hiram Bingham observed the king's retinue "playing in the surf" on Atooi (Kaua'i), apparently for several days.
He notes an earlier account, "a pretty good description ... in Trumbull's Voyages."
This appears to be  a misprint, Bingham is probably refering to John Turnbull's A Voyage Round the World, published in1805.
If so, the description "a pretty good description" is misleading, Turnbull does not directly describe surf riding, but he does reports the use of surfboards as recreational paddling craft, used as an alternative to canoes.
See:
1804 John Turnbull : Surfboard Paddling in Hawaii.

Whereas most observers report that the surf riders dive under the waves when paddling out, Bingham offers an alternative, depending on the conditions; "If they are high, he dives under them, if they are low or smooth he glides over them with ease."
Bingham also notes that while riding, the board sometimes needs to be stalled; the rider "retarding it with the foot, when liable to shoot forward too fast."

Page 242

10. (10th - possibly September or October 1821)
The king's company, that is his wife, Tapoolee and particular friends, Kaneo and her attendants, spent much of the day decorating themselves with a kind of temporary ormaments which they called "Laualla beads;" and a favourite amusement of playing in the surf, of which a pretty good description is given in "Trumbull's Voyages."
All engage in it, without distinction of rank, age, or sex; and the whole nation is distinguished by their fondness for the water, and the dexterity and facility with which they manage themselves in that element.

The surf-board, or the instrument used in playing in the surf, is of various dimensions from three feet in length, and six or eight inches in breadth, to fourteen feet in length, and twenty inches in breadth.
It is made of buoyant wood, thin at the edges and ends, but of considerable thickness in the middle, smooth, and ingeniously adapted to the purpose of sustaining a moderate weight and gliding rapidly on the surface of the water.
The islander, placing himself longitudinally upon the board as it rests upon the surface of the water, and using his naked arms and hands as a pair of oars, paddles out into the sea meeting the succession of surges as they are rolling towards the shore.
If they are high, he dives under them, if they are low or smooth he glides over them with ease, till he is ready to return, or till he gains the smooth sea beyond where the surf breaks.
Then choosing one of the highest surges, adjusting his board as it approaches him, directing his head towards the shore, he rides on the fore front of the surge with great velocity, as his board darts along swifter than a weaver's shuttle, while the whitening surf foams and roars around his head, till it dies on the beach, and leaves him to return or retire , at pleasure.
Often, several of them will run at the same time, as in a race,  and not infrequently on a wager.
The board moves as down an inclined plain (sic), and the art lies principally in keeping it in its proper position, giving it occasionally an accelerating stroke with the hands, so that it shall not lose the propelling force of the wave; and thus fall behind it; or retarding it with the foot, when liable to shoot forward too fast.
Sometimes the irregularity, or the violence, of the water tears their board away from them, and dashes it on the rocks; or threatening to carry them into danger, obliges them to abandon it, and save themselves by diving and swimming.

I informed the king, as he sat on the beach witnessing the sport, of the design of the building of a church, or a house for the public worship of the the true God, at Woahoo.
He expressed his approbation, and also his intention to send his brig to Taheite.
...
14.
...
15. Sabbath.

Page 136

SPORTING IN THE SURF.
After this, they resorted to the favorite amusement of all classes-sporting on the surf, in which they distinguish themselves from most other nations.
In this exercise, they generally avail themselves of the surf-board, an instrument manufactured by themselves for the purpose.
It is made of buoyant wood, thin at the edges and ends, but of considerable thickness in the middle, smooth, and ingeniously adapted to the purpose of sustaining a moderate weight and gliding rapidly on the surface of the water.
It is of various dimensions from three feet in length, and six or eight inches in breadth, to fourteen feet in length, and twenty inches in breadth.
In the use of it, the islander, placing himself longitudinally upon the board as it rests upon the surface of the water, and using his naked arms and hands as a pair of oars, rows off from the sand-beach a quarter, or half a mile into the ocean.
Meeting the succession of surges as they are rolling towards the shore, he glides with ease over such as are smooth, plunges under or through such as are high and combing, allowing them to roll over him and his board, coming out unhurt on the other side, he presses on till his distance is sufficient for a race, or till he has passed beyond the breaking -or combing surf.
After a little rest, turning around and choosing one of the highest surges for his locomotive, he adjusts himself and board, continuing longitudinally upon it directing his head towards the shore, and just before the highest part of the wave reaches him, he gives two or three propelling strokes with his spread hands.
The board, having its hindmost end now considerably elevated, It glides down the moving declivity, and darts forward like a weaver's shuttle.
He rides with railroad speed on the forefront of the surge, the whitening surf foaming and roaring just behind his head, and is borne in triumph to the beach.
Often in this rough riding, which is sometimes attended with danger, several run the race together.
Formerly, this was usually done on a wager.
The inhabitants of these islands, both male and female, are distinguished by their fondness for the water, their powers of diving and swimming, and the dexterity and ease with which ...

Page 137

... they manage themselves, their surf-boards and canoes, in that element.
Their divers can stay under water five or six minutes.

The adoption of our costume greatly diminishes their practice of' swimming and sporting in the surf, for it is less convenient to wear it in the water than the native girdle, and less decorous and safe to lay it entirely off on every occasion they find for a plunge or swim or surf-board race.
Less time, moreover, is found for amusement by those who earn or make cloth-garments for themselves like the more civilized nations.

The decline or discontinuance of the use of the surf-board, as civilization advances, may be accounted for by the increase of modesty, industry or religion, without supposing, as some have affected to believe, that missionaries caused oppressive enactments against it.
These considerations are in part applicable to many other amusements.
Indeed, the purchase of foreign vessels, at this time, required attention to the collecting and delivering of 450000 lbs. of sandal-wood, which those who were waiting for it might naturally suppose would, for a time, supersede their amusements.

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