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george tobin : tahiti, 1792 

George Tobin  : Surf Riding in Tahiti, 1792.

Extract from:
George Tobin:
Journal on HMS Providence, 1791-1793
 State Library of New South Wales 2003
Call No.: ML A562, CY 1421

State Library of NSW
http://image.sl.nsw.gov.au/Ebind/cy1421/a1220/a1220000.html


Introduction

Overview: O’tahytey [Tahiti]
July 1792

Page 211

They are clean to a degree, both sexes generally bathing thrice a day in fresh water and it is somewhat remarkable that, except the children for amusement, the salt water is never frequented but from necessity, and at these times, if a river be contiguous, they make a point of washing in it afterwards.

It is common to see the children at five or

Page 212

six years of age amusing themselves in the heaviest surf with a small board on which they place themselves outside the breaking, whence they are driven with great velocity to the shore, fearless themselves, nor are the least apprehensions of accidents entertained by their parents.


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home catalogue history references appendix

Geoff Cater (1997-2013) : George Tobin : Surf Riding in Tahiti, 1792.
http://www.surfresearch.com.au/1792_Tobin_Tahiti.html