What did Cleary the surf-writer stumble
across 18 months ago?
What did I.S.M.'s "Creative Era" try to say about the same time?
And what of David panthering for 11.4 seconds up tip?
What did it say?
What's it saying now?
Mind, Body, Soul; Surfer, Board, Wave;
Total and Complete Involvement.
Let the mind unshackle, set it free.
Let it stroll, run, leap, laugh in gardens of crystal motion and sun and reality.
Talk with the caretaker on the Plastic Telephone.
Weave and paint with the hand of your imagination, with the fingers of your body, brush of fibreglass.
See that Cavity up there?
I'd love to be there, upside-down, carvin' off a cutback.
The horizon's going over, up!
Toes pressed through wax job.
Stomach in upper reaches of chest cavity.
Feeling the bounce of the re-entry.
Ridden the explosion of the close-out
Yes, the 360 after the weightless was rather good.
Dragged my whole bum in one of those backhands.
Share this one.
Try a dual tube?
You call the turns.
The circus is in town.
Yes, I'd love a rose.
Listen to the radio.
The artists, the individuals and the small groups sing of love.
Turn on the TV - the big companies and entertainment factories turn out violence, killing, hate.
See how simple it is?
The individual artists have it all over the system people.
Surfers are individual artists.
Surfers are beautiful.
Their medium is so clean, so spiritual, so involving, so natural, so good.
As artists they reflect all this good and beauty.
Life is fun.
You can't have fun, kid.
Get a steady job.
But I like the sun.
You're not allowed kid, the system won't let you.
What if I go ahead and dig it, live, love?
We'll jail you.
The only prison is the mind, and the door is stuck open.
Surfers dropped out years ago.
Remember the rat race shouting after us as we walked into funland, "lemondrop kids", "surfies"! Poor kids aren't we ...we even forgot how to frown, too busy living to remember.
Of course with all this groovy stuff
happening around us we're going to attract more drop-outs, or drop-ins.
Two ways around the problem.
First, hotter boards, hotter surfing
and cooler heads mean more guys per wave with just as much fun.
What you sometimes lose with the slightly crowded feeling, you'll gain with a couple more wakes to play in, more motion as other guys go flying around in front and beneath and above you.
The second answer to crowds is more
It's time for man to employ his overgrown scientific knowledge towards fun, instead of that other thing that makes him build fighter planes, war ships, arms, bombs, missiles.
The three million that one fighter plane
costs us, the three million that comes from our pay packs, the three million
that no- one gets to enjoy, could give the friendly people a well shaped
surfbreak to accommodate 300 people.
I'm sorry to have to mention the war-tool bit, but that little piece of ugliness now may help us all to a freer more surf-filled life. ..each time you hear or see the word Vietnam, cancel out the blackness with a picture of a beautiful man-shaped wave, a piece of love-nature.
Make waves not war.
Practical application of the idea.
A grant of several million dollars towards surfing research and development.
A group of surfing minds.
A headland that receives good swell and favourable winds.
Let's try the north side of Long Reef,
Sydney, a half mile of coast around a rock bottomed pair of coves, the
whole place takes any south quarter-wind, cops any swell at all, and has
a lousy bottom shape.
Conditions are excellent three to five days a week.
Accurate chart of the bottom, suggestions for wave shapes, models, testing tanks, research on cement and plastic combinations and varieties, methods of anchoring, and go to town.
A pipeline, an Ala Moana, a Malibu left,
a Sunset walling into a Laneakea, a Rincon, a Ti Tree, a right Pipeline,
a few more imaginative breaks, some big and power some small.
All varying with tides and swell sizes.
Southerly this morning?
Off to the Reef.
Only 200 guys out, only about ten each break.
Slip into wetsuit, grab wax, might just
sit on nearby headland for a bit and raise sensitivity to those waves,
maybe get a rough plan figured on how to put together the session.
Shape preferences, tide, frame of mind ... Hit it!
Stay out in that paradise till something
blows, mind, body or maybe north wind.