| home | catalogue | history | references | appendix |
|
DID you ever see
a gull coasting over the surface of the ocean, then accelerating swiftly
over a swell?
It would seem
the gull maintains an exact height from the water, varying its speed to
rise and fall in unison with the heaving ocean.
This is how I
think of a pintail.
More in tune
with the waves, the pin seems fixed to the heart of the wave, the low eye
of the curl. Acceleration comes easily as if from some sudden source, just
like the gulls.
The first time
you see a pin being ridden in fast water, the rider seems responsible for
the perfect position this board enjoys.
However, riding
in the shadow of the curl is just one of the characteristics of the pin.
It's not a new design- its origins ...
Page 13
... can be traced
back to Makaha point surf days, several decades past.
The form it exists
in today is quite revolutionary.
A good pin is
rather pointed at either end, reminiscent of a big wave board.
The fine extremities
will shake up a few old principles, like nose- riding and tail stalls,
which are generally associated with a full wide nose and tail.
A better surfer
feels at home on a pin, working from the centre out to the ends, this being
governed by the rise and fall of wave speed and vertical face.
A more challenging
wave is the supreme test for a pin, as gentle tiny beach breaks don't bring
the best qualities out.
Angourie seems
made for bold, precise surfing, allowing for few mistakes if the curl is
to be ridden.
Here the pin will
hide deep behind the white water, or high in the thick revolving tube.
The speed leaves
you breathless and wondering what took place between the time you dropped
in and finally kicked out.
Speed seems the
real asset of the pin, but it is the sustained flow between manoeuvres
that blends them together as one, a thing so simple that is constantly
sought after by surfers at their best.
This flow can
be had on a pin with bump-free outline.
To turn on a
wide tail short board, the board must be coaxed off its tail block, up,
over and on to the rail, which appears as a short jerky turn often resulting
in the whole rail being buried up to the nose, and followed by a loss of
speed.
The pin is all
rail, having no block, so when the surfer puts his weight back, and then
on to the rail, the two appear as one, and have instant effect on the board's
direction.
Shorter, more
critical turns can be had by moving on to the tail and dominating the fin.
The pin does
not stall easily, so a re-entry often turns into a roller-coaster unless
checked.
Noseriding is
performed in the wave, not on the shoulder.
The nose outline
fits the face or wall without throwing the tail free.
Noseriding is
not a separate manoeuvre but merely the most forward trim position.
In general trim
the surfer's feet are one behind the other, so you can imagine the difficulties
a beginner would experience.
The ...
Page 15
... whole body
is brought into play constantly, though the knees and ankles appear to
dominate like a snow skier's.
The fin has a
greater wave range since it has no hip or tail rocker to drag at high speeds.
Rocker is confined
to the nose while the tail rises in a slow curve.
The best fins
are very light, and since there is very little area in the extremities
a few inches may be added in length.
The additional
inches help to explain the board's versatility.
The area between
the fin and the rail is so small that tail spin outs are rare, and split
second changes in direction can be had even the middle of the board, no
matter how steep or fast the wave is.
Wide- tails are
notorious for avoiding the higher vertical wall in front of a curl and
forcing the rider to the shoulder.
There the fin
is unattached.
It fits easily
into higher spots and will correct with side steps when a descent is necessary.
Joey Cabell is
surfing better than he ever has before.
In Hawaii this
past Christmas, he put into motion what many surfers, including myself,
have wished they might one day.
He demonstrated
a kind of surfing so fast, bordering (or whatever) can be called ideal
(I won't use perfect, for fear of criticism).
I felt I was
facing the greatest challenge to improve my own surfing, to the point that
I shall now completely overhaul any rigid ideas I had previously.
Hawaiian surfers
have definitely not fallen behind in design and riding approach.
Sutherland, Strauch,
Aipa and many others are proud of this.
I feel if Australians can accept the pintail and modify it to suit, they will ride an exciting board and increase their versatility both in small waves and perhaps on those big days at the Bower or maybe Bells at Easter.
The pin may sound
like the perfect board- it isn't.
It doesn't like
flat waves, or short walls, or any other wave that lacks the characteristics
of the idealist's perfect wave.
It will never
replace the wide square tail in Australia.
In Hawaii the
situation is the reverse, because there are real waves in Hawaii.
Real standup,
suck out, throw over and drag you down waves.
|
Surf International Vol. 1. No. 5 March 1968, pages 12 to 15.. |
| home | catalogue | history | references | appendix |