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LETTERS
"DOWN
THE MINE" ON SURFBOARDS
By KERRY YATES
"Who are these
handsome surfboard champions?
Where are these
beaches?
Can I REALLY
learn to ride a board from the instructions in the book?"
These were just
a few of the questions I fired at 19-year-old Sydney boy Lee Cross.
Lee, a suntanned
blond from Bronte Beach, had just shown me a copy of the ''Australian Surfer,"
a book which he had written and published himself.
'"Grab your swimsuit
next , Sunday morning," he offered. ' "and we'll be off with my surfboard
to find out."
So at 8 o'clock
that Sunday morning Lee and some of his surfing mates called in a car,
with surfboards tied on the roof to take me along on their usual weekend
wave hunt.
The forecast
was that the best surf would be rolling on Sydney's northern beaches, M
decided to start
at Fairy Bower, near Manly.
Travelling north
to Palm Beach, we would have 16 surf beaches to choose from
The boys said
they would looking for "hot-dogging'' waves (long, tapering swells) on
which they could "go down the mine" (ride their boards, sometimes hundreds
of yards).
We beeped our
car horn to a passing truck with surfboard piled on top.
I buttoned a
heavy coat over a chunky sweater and began to feel excited about surfing
on a sunny winter's day.
As we crossed
Sydney Harbour ...
(Photographs)
Page 85
(Photograph)
... Bridge to
the north side ( I was strictly a south-sider, coming from Bondi!), Lee
Cross told me a little about himself and why he wrote his book on surfing.
Lee has been
a keen surfboard rider for four years and spends most of his weekends and
holidays riding the waves.
Since he left
high school two years ago he has worked with a North Sydney advertising
company.
He believes that
surfing should be given more encouragement as a world-wide sport.
So Lee set out
to produce a book about the Australian surfer, the best surfing spots,
how to ride a surfboard, about the new South Pacific Surf Riders' Club
(the first successful attempt to form a club to cater for the needs of
the surfboard rider), with pictures and news about the local champions.
And he did just
that, with the help of some of his teenage surfing mates.
The dramatic
cover shot of a surfboard rider was taken by 17-year-old Terry Flemming,
of Bronte, a trainee photographer with the Sydney Water Board.
Illustrations
and jokes were drawn by an 18-year-old East Sydney Tech, art student, David
Letts, of Newport.
Lee was telling
me of his plans to bring out a second edition of the book before the end
of the year when we arrived at Fairy Bower.
One of the "Bower
Boys" filed that the "waves were on"and the surf was "too much" (his term
for fabulous).
We raced to the
top of a cliff overlooking the spot where the boards were starting their
journey "down the mine," about a mile off Manly Beach.
The surf looked
wild and rough, but the boys had it mastered, and the champs of this area,
like "Nipper" Williams, Bob Pike, and Glen Richie (all pictured in the
book), dared to ride with no fear of hitting the craggy stone bottom.
We were off again,
giving Manly a miss, and were heading for a closer view of the Queenscliff
bombora.
The great bombora,
where the sea surges over seven layers of rock, nearly two miles out from
North Steyne Beach, thunders in a big sea.
lt has been conquered
by only a handful of boys, including 21-year-old Dave Jackman, of Freshwater.
Three months
ago "Jacko" successfully cracked four of the mighty bombora waves.
(See picture
above.)
Northwards again,
we passed Freshwater, Curl Curl, Deewhy, and Long Reef without stopping.
The surf was
too big and there was danger of losing surfboards, which would go crashing
against the rocks and so "ding" (a bang which splits the fibreglass on
a surfboard) badly.
The boys told
me that Long Reef usually supplies the works- everything from 3ft. to 30ft.
waves.
The top man among
some mighty locals of this area is Peter Clare, the senior surfboard champion
for 1961.
The Collaroy
boys were really "hot-dogging" on "Pitt Street" shoots (waves with five
or six riders catching them), but we were orí to find where the
surfboard riders from the south side had "camped" for the day.
We didn't have
to go far.
As we reached
the sands of North Narrabeen we could see cars, surfboards, and riders,
and we knew that this was THE beach for the best surf.
Shark scare
(Photographs)
This popular sport is a mystery to many - so, here's . . .
WHY don't you,
too, join in the fun?
Don't say, "I
couldn't do it."
You could, quite
easily.
Here are the
FOUR main steps for the beginner.
I've just tried
and found them successful.
Follow the lessons
and with plenty of practice you'll be "hot-dogging" (riding confidently,
expertly) something like champion style in a few months.
(Photograph) STEP
ONE: Kneel or lie (whichever you prefer) on your surfboard so that it floats
level in the water.
Paddle out, swinging
both arms together, beyond the breaking waves.
(Photograph) STEP
TWO: To "crack" your first wave, lie flat.
Let the first
wave go by.
When the second
is about 20ft. behind start paddling until you feel the swell lifting you
along.
(Photograph) STEP THREE: Making sure that your surfboard is moving with the wave, slowly rise to your feet (about three-quarter way back from the nose of the board) in one movement.
(Photograph) STEP FOUR: Bend your knees -slightly, one foot in front of the other, and lift your arms to the sides. Try to lean a little forward and let the board make its own way to shore.
TIPS FOR BEGINNERS
Paste these handy
hints in your beach hat:
- New surfboards
can be bought from specialised board manufacturers or sporting stores,
but for the beginner a second-hand surfboard will do fine.
For a ''bargain"
board, ask a dealer, or scout around a surf club.
- Before taking
your surfboard into the water, rub the top with paraffin wax, which is
available at chemists.
This stops you
from slipping off the glass-like finished surface.
- The fashionable "zip-tweeds," those long cotton shorts that so many surfers prefer (they are comfortable) to ride in, can be made by cutting down an old pair of slacks or jeans.
- Look after your
board.
Don't drag thc
fin through the sand; carry it to the water's edge.
Repair a split
in the fibre-glass covering immediately.
Keep clear of
the experts, but close enough to note their movements.
Don't, however,
try cutting across another rider - it can mean trouble.
- If you take a tumble, try to fall clear of your surfboard and dive deep to avoid being struck by it.
- Most surfing
beaches have special areas marked off for board-riders.
If the beach
where you're surfing has no such restricted area, keep clear of the water
"between the flags," don't go near any large group of surfers "on foot."
- Practise on
land, rising to a standing positiftn in one movement.
Lie flat and
try to get to your feet by pushing up with your arms.
This will soon
become an automatic movement.
Surfboard
team to race in Hawaii.
By Kerry Yates
REPRESENTING
AUSTRALIA for the first time at the International Surfing Championships
in Hawaii, these boys are members of the 20-strong team.
From left:
Owen Pilon, David
Jackman, Mick McMahon, Bob Evans, lan Wallis, Ken Bate, Graeme Treloar,
Jim Geddes, and Graham Henry.
This week 20 Australian surfboard riders, eight of them teenagers, will meet in Hawaii to form a team to compete in the International Surfing Championships at Makaha Beach in December and January.
It will be the
first time Australia has been represented by an organised team at the championships,
which bring competitors and spectators from all over the world every year.
All members of
the team paid their own fares to realise this dream of most surfboard experts.
Some used the
savings of two or three years to travel by ship.
Others took advantage
of an airline company's "fly now, pay later" plan.
Unlike most overseas
travellers, the boys didn't take much luggage.
Swimsuits, "zip
tweeds" (long pants worn on surfboards), and a few casual clothes were
all they thought they'd need - so that's all they took.
And, of course,
their boards!
Each of them
took two boards - a special malibu-type, the light and easy-to-handle board
used on most Australian beaches, and a big, solid "elephant-gun" board,
used in heavy surf.
Bob Evans, of
Narrabeen (one of Sydney's northern beaches), organised the team and arranged
for it to compete in the championships.
The boys will
contest junior and senior surfboard championships and body-surfing events.
The South Pacific
Surf Riders' Club supplied the team with T-shirts in the Australian national
colors - gold and green.
This newly formed
club, which has a modern clubhouse at Narrabeen, hopes to sponsor
an Australian
team to Hawaii for the surfing titles each year.
The members of
the Australian team are:
Bob Evans, at
32, is the oldest member of the team.
He believes that
some of the Sydney surf-riders will be a real challenge to the established
champions from California.
David Jackman,
21, of Harbord, is a surfboard builder by trade and well known to Sydney
board-riders as "Jacko," the boy who rode four big waves over the Queenscliff
bombora earlier this year.
John Williams,
21, of Queenscliff, is another surfboard builder.
Owen Pilon, 18,
of North Narrabeen, is a process worker in a city electrical firm and has
saved for this trip since he started work several years ago.
Graham Henry,
20, of Harbord, is known as "Buz."
He works hard
at various jobs during the winter so that he can spend the whole of summer
riding the waves.
Mike Hickey,
24, of Bilgola, gave up his job as an insurance clerk to become a member
of the Australian team.
Jim Geddes, 17,
of Narrabeen, sat for the last exam for his Leaving Certificate at his
school, Waverley College, a few days before leaving Sydney for Hawaii.
Ian Wallis, 21,
of Collaroy, is a city storeman and describes Hawaii as "the surfboard
rider's paradise."
Bernard Farrelly,
16, of Narrabeen, is known as "The Midget."
A surfboard builder
by trade, Bernard was the junior champion of Sydney's surfboard riders
this year.
Bob Pike, 21,
of Manly is a woolclasser and says his main interest in going to Hawaii
is to see if the waves are really as big as everyone says.
Mick McMahon,
25, of Harbord, is a butcher.
Before leaving
he said, "I'm keen to have a go at the big waves and look at the Hawaiian
girls."
Graeme Treloar,
of Manly, is a commercial traveller and Sydney's senior surfboard champion.
Gordon Simpson,
21, Harbord, is a former surf champion.
Ron Grant, 22,
of Wollongong, is the only non-Sydney member of the team and the only one
who has previously competed in surf races over-seas - in California.
Ken Bate, 18,
of Manly, works in a city stockbrokers and has been saving for this trip
since he started work three years ago.
John Bill, 20,
of Manly, gave up his job as an accountant to join the team.
Ben Acton, 25,
of Harbord, a member of the Police Force, got leave of absence to make
the trip.
The other three
members of the team are Reg Shortland, 19, Laurie Short, 18, and Roy Sloan,
18, all of Maroubra.
The
Australian Women's Weekly
Wednesday
7 March 1962, page 41S (Supplement- Teenagers' Weekly).
HIS FILMS ARE ALL SPLASH HITS
By KERRY YATES
Young American film producer and camera- man Bruce Brown, of California, really gets himself into deep water.
Bruce makes films (the action pictures on this page are "stills" from them) on surf-board-riding, and while he some times shoots film from tops of cars, helicopters, and boats, the main location set is in the water.
Bruce, blond and tanned, recently toured the east coast of Australia showing his surfing films to local enthusiasts in hired halls and theatres.
"I find the best angle to film surf-board-riders is right in front of them," said Bruce, "and that's why I'm usually in the water."
His 16mm. color movie camera has a specially
designed waterproof case.
Bruce treads water, sometimes hundreds
of yards from shore.
He films surf- board-riders as they
speed toward him and then ducks to let the boards go over his head.
"I've picked up a few stitches (though no serious injuries) learning when to duck," said Bruce, "but it seems the only way to capture the height of mighty waves."
He also attaches a camera by suction-caps
to the front of his surf- board and paddles out to join the riders.
Moving on his board beside the riders,
he films them as they speed past.
Bruce brought his three full-length
surfing movies to Australia.
Titled "Slippery When Wet," "Barefoot
Adventure," and "Surf Crazy," they were filmed in the surfs of California,
Mexico, and Hawaii.
Each movie runs for an hour and a half and shows the thrills and skills of surfboard-riding.
Bruce commentates from the stage during the color films, telling who's riding the waves and all about the beaches on the screen. "This gives it a personal touch," he said, "'and I can adapt different styles for different audiences."
The background music to the films, which
seems to capture the sound of the sea, was composed and played by Bud Shank,
a popular American jazz musician.
A big band backs Shank.
Bruce, 24, from Dana Point, California,
has been interested in photography for eight years.
At 18, as a member of the American
Submarine Service, he was stationed at Hawaii.
While he was there Bruce produced his
first short color film of board riding.
An American surfboard building company
decided to sponsor the showing of the film at seaside towns in America.
Since then Bruce has produced his three
full-length movies and "about half a dozen short surfing films for television."
With his films he has toured the islands
of Hawaii, most of California, and eastern U.S.A.
During his tour of eastern Australia
(the tour, in January, was his first visit here), Bruce was thrilled with
the enthusiasm of the surfboard-riders, mostly teenagers.
He filmed most of his new full-length
movie, to be released some time this year, at surfing beaches along the
coast of N.S.W.
Although the films show many local riders from the different beaches, Bruce usually takes a couple of champion surfboard-riders with him to appear in the films.
A top surfboard-riding star, Phil Edwards,
of Oceanside, California, toured Australia with Bruce.
Phil, 23, nil and rugged, is a surfboard
and sailing-boat builder by trade and has his own company in the U.S.
FOOTNOTE: Bruce got into "hot water"
one day when he was filming board-riders at a quiet Californian beach.
Military police arrested him for "spying."
Bruce had to develop Iiis film to prove to the police that he had not been using his telescopic-lens camera to photograph a nearby "hush-hush" Army installation.
(Photographs) Bruce Brown-producer, Phil Edwards-star.
"Just had a call
from John Knobel, Bondi local in the 50s and 60s.
That’s him standing
second from the left in front of the red balsa malibu, wearing his home-made
blue board shorts with a snazzy rope belt.
John surfed on a
Norm Casey hollow 16 foot toothpick before the malibus arrived in Sydney
in 1956 although he was never part of the lifesaving scene.
As a youngster he
wheeled his board the few blocks to the beach on a hand cart made from
a packing case.
The switch to light-weight
balsa in the late 50s was an amazing break through because “they could
be thrown about from the tail” and unlike the old longboards were thrilling
to ride.
It was also pretty
clear that shorter boards meant more fun in the surf, so his early boards
were under 9 foot.
John also recalled
hopping over the back wall into the lifesavers’ change rooms at Bondi to
rescue surfboards impounded by the likes of Aub Laidlaw.
Peter Bowes added in some names..
Top row left – Denis
Lindsay
Top row right, Hawaiian
shirt – Mick Dooley
Middle row right
with spikey hair – Dave Standen
Black suit – Midget
Next but one – Bob
Fell
Front row right
– Puppy Dog Paton."
(Photographs)
BOB
PIKE riding one of the great Hawaiian waves during last summer's international
championships.
Below, holding
the bronze seagull trophy he won in the Peruvian Championship while John
Severson is presented with his cup for second place.
Wherever
the surf is running best - anywhere on the coast between Surfers' Paradise,
Queensland, and Torquay, Victoria - there you'll find Bob Pike.
Enjoying
the sun, sand, and salty spray, he's also training hard, for in a few months
he plans to be off again to South America to defend his title of Surfboard
Riding Champion of Peru.
BOB, now 22, won the championship last March in competition with the best from Hawaii, California, France, and Peru, and he made such a hit with the people of Lima that they asked him to come back next March - all expenses paid.
An old boy of The King's School, Sydney, Bob's home is at Manly, just north of Sydney Heads.
The first Australian to win a surf championship overseas, he was a member of the 20 strong Australian team which competed in the International Surfing Championships at Makaha Beach, Hawaii, last summer.
Because he injured
a leg he had to drop out before the finals.
Several members
of the team qualified, but had to return home before the finals, delayed
by lack of a suitable surf, were held.
Bob, however, got a lucky break soon after the Hawaiian championships were over.
John Severson, a champion Californian rider who was visiting Hawaii for the surfing titles, offered Bob a trip to Peru.
The editor of the American magazine "The Surfer," John won all the board-riding events in last year's Peruvian championships and, before he left, the organisers asked him to arrange for Australian, Hawaiian, and Californian riders to compete in their 1962 championships.
John chose Bob and a Sydney friend, Mike Hickey, of Bilgola (another northern Sydney beach), to represent Australia.
It was all a great
surprise to Bob.
"I didn't even
know they surfed in Peru, but what a way to find out!" he said.
So off he went to California, where he joined two other boys heading for Peru, and they all drove down to Mexico with their surfboards tied to the roof of the car.
Taking a couple of weeks for the trip, the boys stopped to surf at all the famous beaches along America's west coast.
From Mexico they took a plane to Lima, capital of Peru, where they were put up at the best hotel, as guests of the city's Waikiki Surf Club.
During their month's stay the visiting surfers went to a party as guests of the President of Peru and were lavishly entertained by the city's citizens.
"There are several beautiful beaches near Lima," Bob said, "but the surf is small.
"The biggest waves are about 10ft. high, and a permanent off-shore wind makes the water too choppy for really good surfing.
"But Peru itself, and the people! They're terrific."
For winning the international exhibition board-riding event, Bob was awarded a bronze carving of two seagulls mounted on a marble base.
The trophy weighs 361b. and is valued at £150.
Bob said that all the visiting surfers received "royal" treatment.
(Photograph) Below, holding the bronze seagull trophy he won in the Peruvian Championship while John Severson is presented with his cup for second place.
Servants employed by the Waikiki Surf Club took charge of their surfboards, rubbed them down with paraffin wax. carried them to the water's edge, and even waited to carry them back after Bob and the other boys had finishing riding.
The servants handed them towels after they showered in the surf club, and even rubbed suntan lotion on their noses before they went out in the sun again.
After leaving
school at 15, Bob did a two-year course at Sydney Technical College to
become a qualified woolclasser.
He worked in
shearing sheds in N.S.W. and Queensland to save the £600 for the
trip to Hawaii.
During that time he visited every surf beach in the eastern States.
"Fairy Bower, about a mile off Manly Beach, is THE spot in Australia when the waves are on," he says.
"The surf in Hawaii,
however, is even better-j ust like I'd always imagined.
But it is very
different from ours.
"Waikiki Beach is similar to many Australian beaches- and not so good.
''But for the
keen surfboard rider other Hawaiian beaches have the perfect waves.
These beaches
- Makaha, Sunset, Alamoana, and the Banzai Pipeline - have the best surf
in the world.
"'The waves, building up to heights of 15 to 25ft. and then dumping on the shore, are very exciting to ride.
"And the greatest thrill of all is the Banzai Pipeline.
"This is an area where the waves, often reaching 25ft., curl over at the top to form a 'pipe' before dumping on a rocky shelf of jagged coral.
"And this was the place that put me out of the Hawaiian championships.
"I lost my board
going down the Pipeline, but got out of it with a few scratches and an
injured leg.
My board, however,
was wrecked.
All the front
was bashed in and the fin was snapped off."
Notes
1962 Peruvian
International Contest, Lima Peru
Inaugural contest
at Kon Tiki Surf.
Large wave, small
wave and paddling races.
The Big Wave contest
was won by Felipe Pomar.
The same week a speciality Big Wave contest was held at Villa Beach, won by Australian surfer, Bob Pike.
Correcting the previous
entry, Felipe Pomar emailed in January 2010:
I was enjoying
your site when I came across a mistake .
You site shows
Bob Pike from Au. as the winner of the Peruvian International 1962 Big
Wave event.
Bob was my friend,and
a great big wave surfer.
And he did win
that event that year at Villa beach.
That event however
was a specialty event.
The Peru International
Big wave event was held that same week at the Kon Tiki Surf spot.
The winner of
the Peru International Big Wave Contest in the year 1962 was Felipe
Pomar.
Sorry to point
out a mistake in your site.
Hopefully you
can correct that .
Many thanks to Felipe
for this contribution.
This summer thousands of Australian
teenagers will be going surfboard-riding.
With the sport growing enormously in
popularity, special sections of most beaches are now reserved for board-riders,
and the riders have developed a language all their own.
So if you're a sandie who dreams of riding an elephant gun out the hack, waiting to beach a boomer without going down the mine, you'd better study this . . .
ANGLE: Direction a surfboard travels
across a wave, for example, left angle.
BAGGIES: Baggy pants worn over swimsuits
when riding a surfboard.
BEACH BUM: A boy who doesn't work or
go to school, just hangs around the beach all day and surfs.
BEACH A WAVE: To ride the same wave
all the way to the beach.
BIG SETS: Groups of extra big waves,
breaking and rolling in one after the other.
BIG W: Dramatic fall off a surfboard.
BLASTER: A big wave.
BLEACHIE: Surboard-rider who bleaches
his hair.
BOARD SHORTS: Pants worn for riding
surfboards. .
BOARD WAGGON: Car used for transporting
surfboards from beach to beach.
BOATIES: Members of a surf club boat
crew.
BODGIES: Lumps on knees and feet caused
by constant surfboard-riding.
BODY SHOOTING: Riding a wave without
a board.
BOMBIE: Short for bombora, where waves
break over a reef of rocks just below the surface.
BOOMER: Big wave.
"BOWER" BOYS: Name given to expert
riders at Fairy Bower, a surfing spot about one mile off Manly Beach, Sydney,
famous for its big and sometimes dangerous surf.
CORNER: Changing direction while riding
a wave. For example, left corner is to turn to the left.
CUT: Another method of turning across
a wave. To right cut is to move sharply to the right when riding a wave.
DEEP-SEA FIN: Special type of surfboard
fin, made from fibreglass or balsa, with a solid square shape.
DING: Split or hole in a surfboard.
DOWN THE MINE: When nose board goes
under the surface an heads for the bottom, throwing tk
DUMP: A big wave which breaks suddenly
and steeply, with most of the water hitting the bottom hard.
Can be very dangerous.
ELEPHANT GUN: A type of surfboard,
long, tapered, and heavy, used in big surfs.
Used to shoot the big ones, hence the
name.
EL SPONTANEO: Method of trick riding-right
at the front of ihe board, feet apart and crouching over.
FLICK-OFF: Method of getting off a
wave as it nears the shore. Moving to the back of the board, the rider
flicks the board backwards over the wáve.
GAS: Anything which is very good.
GIDGET: A girl surfboard-rider.
GOOFY FOOT: A very good rider whoreverses
the usual way of standing by putting right foot in front of left.
GRAB THE RAIL: To grab the side of
the board to avoid losing it on a wave.
GREENIE: A big wave before it breaks
into white foam.
GREMLIN: A mythical figure who tips
up boards, or a young surfrider with bleached hair.
HANGING TEN: A trick method of riding
with toes tucked over the front of the surfboard.
HAWAIIAN PULL-OUT: Grabbing nose of
board and pulling it through a wave.
HEAD DIP: Trick riding - putting head
in and out of a wave while riding it.
HEAVY: A big wave.
HO-DAD: Anyone who annoys board riders
while they surf.
HUEY: The surfboard-riders' god of
the waves.
They often call, "Come on, Huey, send
the waves up," as they wait for a big one beyond the line of breakers.
HUMP: A wave.
KAHUNA: Similar to "Huey" - the god
of the Californian and Hawaiian board-riders.
KING: The best rider at any beach.
LAYBACK: A supreme test of skill in
trick riding.
The rider lies flat on his back, with
feet facing the way board is going.
LEPRECHAUN: Surfboard-rider under 13
years old.
LOCAL: Usually a good rider who lives
and surfs most of the time at a particular beach.
MALIBU: Type of surfboard made from
foam, balsa, or fibreglass and under 10ft. long.
MUNCHIE: Any type of food.
NOAH: Shark, from rhyming slang "Noah's
Ark."
NOSE-RIDING: Standing right at front
of the board while riding a wave.
OKINOUIE: Type of board similar to
the malibu.
OKS: Bermuda shorts worn for surfboard-riding.
OUTSIDE or OUT THE BACK: A long way
out at sea, beyond the first line of breakers.
PIRATE: A board-rider who crashes into
other riders and makes a nuisance of himself.
PLANK: Any type of surfboard.
PIG: Type of surfboard with back and
front ends shaped to a point.
PITT STREET SHOOT: A wave with four
or more riders on it at the same time.
POLY: Type of board made of foam and
fibreglass.
POPE: The best rider of a group of
locals or, more usually, the best of a number of neighboring groups.
Better than a "king."
QUASIMODO: Trick riding, with body
bent nearly double, with one hand stretched out in front and the other
behind.
RUBBISHED: To be thrown off wave and
dumped on shore.
SANDIES: People who sit on the beach
and don't usually surf; and learners.
SHORE DUMP: A wave which breaks heavily
on the sand.
SLIDE: Moving smoothly on a wave-front
the crest to the trough.
SLICE: To travel across a wave with
sharp cut to the right or left.
STRINGER: Strip of hardwood set into
a foam board to strengthen it.
SURFTE: A fond term for a good and
keen surfer. ,
SURF KING: A good rider in an area,
sometimes conceited.
SURF SAFARI: A trip around different
beaches to find a good surf.
TANDEM: Two people riding on one surfboard.
TEARDROP: Type of surfboard with wide
back and pointed front.
TIKI: Lucky charm worn by some riders.
TOES-ON-NOSE: Trick riding, standing
at front of board with toes curled over the edge.
TOURIST: A board-rider who travels
from his usual beach to another for the day.
Sometimes refers to a beginner who
becomes a pest to other riders.
TUBE: The area of a dumping wave between
the breaking crest and the trough.
UTOPIA: Makaha Beach in Hawaii, considered
by board-riders as the best surfing spot in the world.
WALL: A steep wave.
WAX: Paraffin wax, rubbed on a board
to prevent slipping.
WHITE WATER: Area of surf where the
waves are breaking.
WIDOWS: Girls left sitting on the beach
all day while their boy-friends ride their surfboards.
WIPEOUT: A dramatic fall off a board
when a rider is trying to catch a wave.
WIPEOUT WAGGON: Car used for transporting
boards and riders from beach to beach.
ZIP TWEEDS: Long shorts worn for board-riding.
The
Australian Women's Weekly
Wednesday
2 January 1963, page 47S (Supplement- Teenagers' Weekly).
Seeing the world
on surfboards
By KERRY YATES
Three young Sydney men have formed a successful partnership with the inviting slogan "See the world on a surfboard."
THE partners are Paul Witzig, Peter Clifton, and Paul Quiney, all 21 and all expert surfboard riders.
The firm, Surfing Promotions, was formed about nine months ago as the Australian agency for an American film producer, Bruce Brown, of Dana Point, California.
"Bruce has a large
studio in Hollywood," said Peter, "and travels the world shooting scenes
for his surfing movies.
"He has already
had three outstanding successes with 'Slippery When Wet,' 'Surf Crazy,'
and 'Barefoot Adventure.' "
Paul Witzig met
Bruce Brown in Hawaii two tyears ago.
Paul was on his
way to join his parents for a holiday in Europe, and Bruce was filming
"Slippery When Wet."
Paul, who owned his first surfboard when he was eight, said he couldn't pass through Hawaii without trying its famous surf, so he stopped off for two weeks.
"I stayed with some Californian surfboard riders in a beach house at Sunset Beach," he said, "and Bruce was living next door.
"I got to know many of the local Hawaiian and Californian riders and they wanted to know all about Australia.
"Bruce was very interested in our surfing and I offered to sponsor him on a trip to Australia to show some of his movies."
Bruce accepted the offer and this was the beginning of Surfing Promotions.
Last tour big success
After Paul had arranged showings and publicity, Bruce toured the east coast of Australia last summer with "Bare- foot Adventure* and "Slippery When Wet."
The tour was a
great success.
Paul made enough
money to cover Bruce's air fare to Australia and all touring expenses,
a reasonable profit, and still had something over as working captial for
new ventures.
While he was in
Australia Bruce filmed part of his latest film, "Surfing Hollow Days."
A full-color,
feature-length movie, it stars surfing champions of Australia, New Zealand,
Hawaii, California, Mexico, and Florida.
To a surfer, a "hollow day" is a day when the waves curve up and curl completely over before crashing on the shore - thus forming a hollow tunnel of water.
The film mostly features board-riding, but there are also exciting scenes of body-surfing, sailing, and water-skiing.
Surfers play with shark
One dramatic sequence shows surfers at Santa Barbara playing "Nip and Tuck" with a 15ft. shark.
Paul Witzig appears a few times in the film, riding huge waves at beaches on the north coast of N.S.W.
Peter Clifton stars in the water-skiing scenes, and is also shown "free-planing" - which is skiing behind a motor-boat using a surfboard (waxed heavily to stop the skier from slipping) instead of skis.
Paul Witzig asked Peter Clifton and Paul Quiney to join him in Surfing Promotions to bring this film to Australia.
"Surfing Hollow Days" opened in Sydney a few weeks ago and the firm has arranged 60 showings in Queensland, N.S.W., Victoria, and South Australia during the next few months.
Peter and Paul Quiney have been riding surfboards at Sydney beaches for about five years and met Paul Witzig while surfing.
Although Surfing Promotions means only part-time work so far, the boys signed contracts with Bruce Brown, registered their partnership, and set up a modern office at Newport (a beach suburb on Sydney's north side), where they employ a secretary to do typing and answer inquiries.
(Photograph) EXAMINING a sequence in the film "Surfing Hollow Days" are, from left. Peter Clifton, Paul Witzig, and Paul Quiney.
Paul Witzig has just completed fourth year Architecture at Sydney University.
As head man and organiser of the firm, he flew to the States a few months ago to make official arrangements with Bruce Brown to bring "Surfing Hollow Days" to Australia.
When the film arrived in Sydney he had to arrange for it to be cleared through Customs and the Censorship Board.
(Photograph) PHIL
EDWARDS, of California, riding a huge wave at Sunset Beach, Hawaii.
Phil, who
is recognised as the best surfboard-rider in the world, stars in the film
which is now being shown in Australia.
Peter, a copywriter for a Sydney advertising agency, is the Press agent and publicity officer for Surfing Promotions.
He has organised an extensive advertising campaign in local newspapers and national surfing magazines, designed posters and pamphlets, and has arranged radio and television interviews to promote the film.
Paul Quiney is
studying accountancy and works as a junior accountant in a city office.
He handles the
legal side of the firm, the financial worries, and the theatre bookings.
Surf safari with film
The firm owns its own film projection unit and employs Peter Hamill, 20, a surfboard builder, to run the projector at every showing.
Paul Witzig, on
university holidays, will tour with the film for the whole run.
And Peter and
Paul Quiney will take their annual holidays to help him.
The boys are making the tour in an old car, with four surfboards tied on the roof and posters for the film plastered all over the body.
"On all our trips
we keep a lookout, and Stop whenever we find a good surf running," said
Paul Witzig.
"Our business
trip is a surf safari, too."
The boys are not drawing weekly wages from their firm, but plan to divide the profit at the end of the tour, leaving enough in "kitty" to finance their next enterprise.
In this way they
hope to develop Surfing Promotions into a profitable full-time business.
The
Australian Women's Weekly
Wednesday
6 March 1963, page 75S (Supplement- Teenagers' Weekly).
The
"Midget" does Hawaiian ... and wins world title.
By
Kerry Yates
Bernard Farrelley, the 18-year-old Sydney boy who recently won the International Surfboard Riding Championship in Hawaii, became a film star at the same time.
The film, being
produced by another Sydney surfer, Bob Evans, is due for release in Australia
within the next few weeks,
Benard, a lanky,
blue-eyed lad, is known to his friends as "Midge," and his nickname inspired
the title of the film: "Midget Goes Hawaiian."
Evans, who edits
a surfing magazine and has aleady produced two other feature-length surfing
movies and several shorts for television, chose Midge as the star after
he had won several local surfboard championships.
Work on the film
began last March.
Bob, Midge, and
other expert board-riders visited the best surfing beaches on Australia's
east coast to record sequences for the first half of the film.
Bob then organised
a team to represent Australia at the international Surfing Championships
held annually at Makaha Beach, Hawaii.
Three other Sydney
boys, David Jackman Mick McMahon, and Barry Cardiff, joined Bob and Midge
to form the team, and they flew to Hawaii just before Christmas.
The surfing championships
are not held on any set day, only on days when a good surf is running at
Makaha.
Race Delayed.
When the plane
on which the boys and their surfboards were travelling set down in Hawaii,
they heard that the semi-finals were in progress that day at the beach
30 miles away,
An urgent phone
call to contest officials delayed the last semi-final so that the Australians
could compete.
The boys hailed
a taxi, the driver loaded their surfboards on the roof and they made a
dash for it.
At Makaha, traffic
police escorted them through the crowds and thev were cheere by competitors
and spectators as they hurried to the dressing-sheds to change.
The waves were
really big, and the Australians were competeting against riders from California,
Peru, and Hawaii in front of spectators from all over the world.
The contest is
judged by experts standing on a tower high above the sand.
Points are given
for length of ride, ability to manoeuvre, and good sports-manship.
As leader of the
team, Bob said all the Australians surfed the 15ft. waves like veterans.
"Midge was outstanding,"
he said, "'and we were not surprised when he was selected for the finals.
"These were held
a few days later.
Unfortunately,
the waves were much smaller, breaking at three or four feet.
"Most riders
paddled a long way out in the hope of picking up a few big ones, but they
were out of luck.
"Midge adopted
a now or never attitude, and moved to within 200 yards of the beach.
"'He cracked
every wave that came along, large or small, and proved his skill so well
that he was crowned champion of the year.
"We expected
him to put on a good show, but winning the grand event was just wonderful."
The trophy Midge
won was a statue of a surf rider and his board, carved from wood.
The presentation
of this prize is a highlight of Bob's movie, which also shows Midge riding
in the final.
This was the
first time a competitor from a foreign nation had won the title - the highest
honor in the surfing world.
Midge, who is
a surfboard builder by trade, designed and made the two surfboards he took
to Hawaii.
One is a light
"hot-dog" board used for fast turning and trick riding.
The other is
a heavier board for big seas.
The Australians
shared a house on Sunset Beach, 40 miles from Honolulu.
They spent the
next four or five weeks on a surf safari - travelling round the surfing
beaches of Hawaii.
Bob was always
on location, filming the adventures of the Sydney surfers as they rode
big waves alongside the champions from Hawaii and California.
The boys are
now back in Sydney, already saving for another trip.
Most of them
hope to compete again next time, but Midge is determined that he will.
"I just must
get back to Hawaii to defend my title," he said.
MIDGE FARRELLEY,
with the trophy he won in Hawaii.
(Photograph Ron
Church)
NO
SURFIES, By REOUEST
Visiting international
surfboard experts say that although they spend all their spare time riding
the waves they aren't "surfies."
By KERRY YATES
(Photograph)
LINDA BENSON,
U.S. women's champion.
This is her fifteenth
board.
"Of course, we
have a few 'ho-dads' (young larrikins), too, who bleach their hair and
hang around the beaches all day," said Joey Cabell, the American who won
the last international surfboard championships at Hawaii.
"But nearly all
the surfers in California and Hawaii go to work or college, and surfboard
riding is only a sport, not their life.
They devote many
hours to it and take their sport seriously, but so do most tennis and football
players."
Joey and the
national champions from the United States, Peru, New Zealand. France, Britain
and South Africa came to Sydney to compete in the world surfboard championships
held at Manly last weekend.
Although most
of the overseas stars have to return to work next week, they stayed on
after the championships to ride as much Australian surf as possible before
flying home.
"Weather doesn't
bother the true surf fanatic," said Gordon Burgis, surfboard champion of
Great Britain.
"In Jersey last
winter we were riding when the water was only 36 degrees."
Gordon, 20, lives
with his parents in Jersey, one of the Channel Islands.
"Board-riding
is just becoming popular with teenagers there," he said.
"I've been riding
for about two and a half years now - until then it was mostly visiting
Australians who surfed there."
The British championships,
the first, were held at Jersey recently with competitors from Australia,
France, South Africa, and England.
"Most people
are surprised to hear of surf in England, but there are some good waves
in Cornwall," he pointed out.
Keen
Parisian
Gordon sometimes
surfs at France's famous surf spot, Biarritz, near the Spanish border,
with the French national champion, Joel de Rosnay.
Joel, 26, a research
chemist at the Louis Pasteur Institute in Paris, drives 500 miles to Biarritz
whenever he has a free weekend.
President of
the Surf Club de France, he was taught to ride a surfboard by Peter Viertel,
the American writer who is married to film star Deborah Kerr.
"'Peter's a champion
surf rider and snow-skier, too, and brought one of the first surfboards
to France about 1956," said Joel.
"Now there are
two or three hundred riders on the coast."
Joel, who's married
to an English journalist and has two babies, thinks the teenagers who ride
the boards in Sydney are similar to those in France.
"In France they
wear the same types of T-shirts and board-shorts, and have lots of fun
riding the waves," he said.
"We haven't got
any 'bleachies,' as you call them, but everyone's doing the Stomp there.
"We call it 'Le
Surf,' but it's the same as your Stomp."
On the way to
Australia, Joel surfed in California and Hawaii with Joey Cabell.
Born in Hawaii,
Joey, 25, learnt to ride a board when he was seven, and became one of the
island's top riders before moving to California four years ago.
He's a restaurant-owner,
but had time to win the famous international surf- board championships
at Makaha Beach, Hawaii, last December.
Joey likes the
Sydney surf.
"We've struck
some good waves here," he said, '"and the shore break (when the waves break
almost on the beach) is unique.
I don't recall
having surfed anything like it before."
Four other champions
from California, John Richards, Mike Doyle, Phil Edwards, and top American
girl surfer Linda Benson, also came to Sydney.
''Little John"
Richards (as he is known) holds the American west coast championship.
A salesman for
a surfboard manufacturer, he's 24 and married.
Mike Doyle, 23,
of Long Beach, has been surfing for 10 years, and for the last two has
won every tandem (two riding on the same board) event in California.
Mike and his
partner, Linda Merrill, 19, won the international tandem event in Hawaii
last year.
"Tandem riding
is something quite new, but is becoming a big sport - it has great spectator
interest," he said.
"Linda and I
have made up dozens of tricks, starting from the simple hand-stands or
her standing on my shoulders.
"We usually practise
for hours on sand before trying them out."
Mike, who is
studying to be a science teacher, surfs Hawaii every summer and has starred
in many surfing movies, riding by himself.
"But I like tandem
riding best in competitions" be said.
"Most of the
single riders' tricks have been discovered, but there are still a thousand
more for tandem teams."
Phil Edwards,
25, another top rider, was chosen as the international judge for the world
titles in Sydney.
A surfboard and
sailing boat builder at Oceanside, California, he first came out here two
years ago to star in American film producer Bruce Brown's surfing movie
"Waterlogged," which featured him riding at many Australian beaches.
Linda Benson,
20, is the present United States invitational women's surf- board champion.
"I've been riding
for nine years now," she said, "but it's only over the past few summers,
since the movie 'Gidget' was released, that girls have really taken to
board-riding in California."
Linda, who lives
in Encinitas, California, is a secretary for one of America's biggest surfboard
shops and goes surfing whenever the "waves are on" at nearby beaches.
She always goes
to Hawaii on her annual holidays, and recently "surfed-in" for the American
film star Annette Funicello in the board-riding scenes in two films, "Muscle
Beach Party" and "Bikini
Beach."
Not "Muscly"
Durban
craze.
Max, 25, is a
professional lifeguard at Durban Beach and has been riding a board for
nine years.
He thinks that
a visiting Australian surf team took the first board to South Africa about
1954, but says it's only over the past two years that board-riding has
caught on over there, and the teenagers are "stoked" (the surfer's term
for crazy) about it.
"But we don't
have any beachcombers," Max said.
"The Twist is
still big there, but I've promised to take back the Stomp with me."
Max plans to
stay a few weeks longer in Australia to surf the N.S.W. coastline.
"From all reports,
it sounds as though most Australian surfs are very similar to ours," he
said, "but I'd like to find out for myself."
(Portrait Photographs)
HECTOR VELANDE,
Champion of Peru.
MIKE DOYLE, Tandem
co-champion.
JOEL de ROSNAY,
Champion of France.
MAXY WETTLAND,
S. Africa champion.
JOEY CABELL,
Hawaii champion.
PHIL EDWARDS,
international judge.
"LITTLE JOHN"
RICHARDS (Calif.)
GORDON BURGIS,
British champion.
WONDER
BOY OF THE WAVES
Australian teenager
who won the world surfboard crown
By KERRY YATES
Whenever friends
come looking for Nat Young, his mother tells them, "Wherever the surf's
on - that's
where you'll
find him."
Nat, the Sydney
teenager who recently won the World Surfboard Championship in California,
spends most of his life at the beach.
"It's been the
same for the past eight years," Mrs. Young said.
"Every day- morning
and afternoon- he goes off surfing.
"At least I know
where he is- and it's really paid off now."
At Ocean Beach,
near San Diego, California, more than 80,00 spectators watched Nat take
the world title.
He was riding
his favorite surfboard which he calls "Sam" and took with him from Sydney.
In the Women's
Championships, Australian girls Gail Couper, of Victoria, and Phylis O'Donnell,
of Queensland, came fourth and sixth respectively.
Nat, 18, scored
293 points to win by 63 points from Jock Sutherland, of Hawaii, and 70
points from Corky Carroll, also of the United States.
"The 8ft.(?)
waves were similar to ones we get at Manly Beach- and just what I'd hoped
for," said Nat
after the contest.
Australia's wonder
surfer has a long list of titles.
As well as being
Australian champion, Nat currently holds he N.S.W., Newcastle Hunter Valley,
and Bell's Beach, Victoria, titles and has won a string of local and interstate
surfboard rallies.
He has 25 impressive
trophies in a cabinet in his Warriewood home, and has won tb i ee overseas
trips.
As Australian
champion he won a trip to the World Titles in Hawaii in 1964, and another
to the recent ones in California.
Last year he
won a trip to Peru for the international contest in a seven-mile paddle
race on Sydney Harbor.
In Peru he won
the World Paddle race and took second place to Peruvian surfer Pillipe
Pomar, in the World Surfboard Championship.
"Peru as a good
lesson to him- he lost the big title by one point," Mrs. Young said.
"Nat knew he
could never count on winning.
He never even
mentioned the possibility of pulling it off in California."
But that didn't
stop him putting in weeks of practice.
He surfed every
day and spent most weekends on surfaris up and down the eastern coastline.
"My favorite
haunt is Noosa Heads, about 80 miles north of Brisbane," Nat always says.
"But if I can't
make it that far, I settle for the good long rides at Crescent Heads and
Byron Bay."
After they heard
the good news (the Australian team manager, Bob Evans, rang from California),
Mr. and Mrs. Young, their two married daughters, and younger son, Chris,
couldn't even walk down the street without someone offering congratulations.
"And for days
the phone didn't stop ringing," Mrs. Young said. "We're all so proud."
Just before he
left Australia, Nat joined an interna tional sports wear company.
He will visit
their main office in Portland, U.S.A., before returning to Australia via
Hawaii.
In Hawaii he'll
star in a movie by Australian surfer film-maker Bob Evans.
It will be released
Australia wide in January.
Then, after six
weeks away, Nat will be back to catch up with all his commitments in Sydney.
As a top surfer,
Nat has a weekly column in The Sunday Telegraph, demonstrates and promotes
his own custom surfboards, and makes personal appearances at Sydney stores.
Quiet and unassuming,
Nat has definite ideas for the future.
He has made quite
a lot of money from "surfing side-lines."
He saves every
penny and has bought a block of land at Whale Beach in Sydney.
He hopes to become
a professional surboard rider and build a house with a beach on his doorstep.
(Photograph)
WORLD SURFBOARD
CHAMPION Nat Young, 18, of Warriewood, N.S.W., with some of his trophies.
He won the world
title this month in California, U.S.A.
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