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surfresearch.com.au
london : aloha 'oe, 1908 |
...
Hawaii has a
ripening climate, and Dorothy Sambrooke had been exposed to
it under exceptionally
ripening circumstances.
Slender,
pale,
with blue eyes, a trifle tired from poring over the pages of
books and
trying to muddle into an understanding of life- such she had
been the month
before.
But now the
eyes
were warm instead of tired, the cheeks were touched with the
sun, and the
body gave the fIrst hint and promise of swelling lines.
During that
month
she had left books alone, for she had found greater joy in
reading from
the book of life.
She had
ridden
horses, climbed volcanoes, and learned surf swimming.
The tropics
had
entered into her blood, and she was aglow with the warmth
and colour and
sunshine.
And for a
month
she had been in the company of a man-Stephen Knight,
athlete, surf-board
rider; a bronzed god of the sea, who bitted the crashing
breakers, leaped
upon their backs, and rode them in to shore.
...
Page 37
...
When the
Senatorial
party had landed, Steve had been one of the committee of
entertainment.
It was he
who
had given them their first exhibition of surf-riding, out at
Waikiki Beach,
paddling his narrow board seaward until he became a
disappearing speck,
and then, suddenly reappearing, rising like a sea-god from
out of the welter
and spume and churning white- rising swiftly higher and
higher, until he
stood poised on the crest of a mighty billow, his feet
buried in the flying
foam, hurling beachward with the speed of an express train,
and stepping
calmly ashore at their astounded feet. That had been her
first glimpse
of Steve.
He had been
the
youngest man on the committee, a youth himself of twenty.
He had not
entertained
by speech-making, nor had he shone decoratively at
receptions.
It was in
the
breakers at Waikiki, on the wild cattle drive on Mauna Kea,
and in the
breaking-in yard of the Haleakala Ranch, that he had
performed his share
of the entertaining.
...
bitted- put
a bit into the mouth of (a horse).
|
Australian Country Life. Volume ?, Number ? Sydney, N.S.W., August15 1910. Online Literature http://www.online-literature.com/london/50/ |
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