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young : real hawaii, 1898 
Lucien Young  : The Real Hawaii, 1898.

Extracted from : Young, Lucien, U.S.N.
The Real Hawaii
 Doubleday & McClure Co., New York.1898 Pages. 85 - 86
One (1) photo of canoe surfing.
Dela Vega (ed, 2004) Page31.

Probably also
Young, Lucien : The Boston at Hawaii or, the Observations and Impressions of a Naval Officer During a Stay of Fourteen Months in Those Islands on a Man-of-War
Gibson Bros., Washington D.C. 1898. 311 Pages.
A U.S. Navy officer on the cruiser Boston describes the reign of Lili'uokalani, her overthrow, the Provisional Government and the Republic. Includes chapters on games, religion, land tenure, etc.
http://www.hawaii.gov/hidocs/annexation.html


Introduction.
Lucien Young had a long and distinguished career in the United States Navy.
He evetually rose to the rank of ???

While in Hawaii  "Commander Lucien Young USN" led the occupation of the "Arlington Hotel grounds in Honolulu" in "January 1893.
This was the childhood home of Queen Liliuokalani who the Americans under the guise of 'protecting American lives' would illegally aid American businessmen in Honolulu to overthrow."
Image :  Hawaii State Archives, Record Group: 36-3, Historic Events: Overthrow; file: 259

http://www.k12.hi.us/~waianaeh/waianhi/whsarch2.html


Other Publications by Lucien Young
Young, Lucien : Elements of Navigation
John Wiley and Sons, New York. 1898.
Chapman and Hall, London.1898. 248 pages

Young, Lieutenant Lucien (and William H Carlson and  Mr E J Balbin) :
Annual Reports of the War Department for the Fiscal Year Ended June 30, 1900.
Part 12 Report of the Military Governor of Cuba on Civil Affairs
Two Volumes Four Parts
Washington: Bureau of Navigation, Navy Department, 1888.
Government Printing Office, 1901.
Lieut Commander Lucien Young, Captain of port of Habana (Volume II  Part 2 , 12 of 149 pages)

http://www.history.navy.mil/photos/pers-us/uspers-xz/l-young.htm

I have been unable to determine the location of this account.


"Arriving far enough out, they adjust themselves on the rear end of the board, lying flat on their faces, and upon the approach of the largest billow, paddle with their hands and feet toward shore.

The breaker catches up with them, and by skillful manipulation it is made to bear the board forward upon its face at an angle of 30 or 40 degree, with the speed on an express train ...

... Sometimes the swimmer assumes a sitting or standing position on the board in the midst of the foam, balancing himself in a way that would prove fatal to even the best American swimmer.

The larger the waves, in their opinion, the better the sport."



Digitally collated and formatted from ..
Dela Vega (ed, 2004) Page 31.

NOTES
A basic but factual account, that is most interesting in the report that ...
"by skillful manipulation it is made to bear the board forward
upon its face at an angle of 30 or 40 degree".
There are two possible interpretations -
1. the board rides at a downward angle of 30 or 40 degrees to the horizontal.
or
2. the board rides across the wave at an angle of 30 or 40 degrees to the wave face.
Given that transversing (angling, sliding) is the intergral dynamic of successful wave-riding and that several early writers are at pains to explain or accout for this process, the second seems to be the most likely the author's intended meaning.
Other writers comments invariably require close reading to cleary ascertain the meaning, however it should be noted that the dynamics of surfboard motion are not understood by most riders and a lack of scientific understanding is not necesary for successful riding.
As Caton (1888) noted  " ... the natives could not explain why they were propelled shoreward with such astonishing speed, nor could  I explain it myself, nor could my friends."

As a guide to the difficulty faced by early European observers, consider the following reports ...

Lt. King #2 (1788)       "...the great art is to guide the plank so as always to keep it in a proper direction

on the top of the Swell, & as it alters its directn."

Stewart (1829)     "... keep their poise in the swell, ... not ... forward ... nor ... behind ;

... on the rolling summit..."

de Varigny (1873)    "he moved forward with the spray without directing from a straight line"

Although these early reports appear to indicate transversing (with careful reading), Blake (1935) noted in particular the account of Caton (1888)

"...his course was along the foot of the wave, and parallel with it, ...
He kept up with the progress of the breaking crest, which moved from west to
east, as successive portions of the wave took the ground "
 for a definitive report to prove that ...
"...they slid the wave for the same reason we do today; that is,
to get away from the breaking or foaming crest of the wave."  Blake (1935) Page 42.

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home catalogue history references appendix

Geoff Cater (2006) : Charles de Varigny : Jeux Havaiens, 1874.
http://www.surfresearch.com.au/1873_Varigny_Voyage_Aux_Sandwich.html