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anderson : hilo, hawaii, 1863

Mary E. Anderson : Surfing at Hilo, Hawaii, 1863.

Extract from
Anderson, Mary E.:
Scenes in the Hawaiian Islands and California.
: The American Tract Society, Boston, 1865, pages 104 to 105.
www.googlebooks

Introduction.
The author was the daughter of Rev. Rufus Anderson, a missionary and author.
Embarking in January 1863, the Andersons visited California and then traveled throughout the Islands, visiting most of the mission stations and points of interest including the site of Cook’s death at Kealakekua and Kilauea volcano.
Anderson notes that, although she did not witness it, surfboard riding is a reacreational activity at Hilo.
She does report observing young children practising with small boards.

Chapter X. —A Story About Kapiolani.

Page 104

March 24th (1863), we took the steamer Kilauea. It rained as we sailed out of the bay, — Byron's Bay as it is called.
The surf rolls in here terrifically, and beats upon the shore with an incessant booming sound.
The view of Hilo, as you enter the bay, is said to be very fine ; but we were so unfortunate as to come in, in the night, and to go out in a rain-storm.
The natives play in the surf a great deal.
They have what is called a surfboard, perhaps four or five feet long.
With this board, they swim out perhaps a mile, and then lying on it, ride in on the top of the surf-billows.
I was sorry not to see this amusement; but the little children, with their small boards, I often saw trying to imitate their elders.

" Don't they ever get hurt, aunty ?" asked little Alice.

Page 105

Not often.
The natives are perfectly at home in the water, and can swim long distances.
The women are about as good swimmers as the men.

Anderson, Mary E.:
Scenes in the Hawaiian Islands and California.
: The American Tract Society, Boston, 1865, pages 104 to 105.
www.googlebooks

Geoff Cater (2007) : Mary E. Anderson: Surfing at Hilo, Hawaii, 1863.
http://www.surfresearch.com.au/1863_Anderson_Hawaii_Hilo.html