surfresearch.com.au  colvocoresses : expedition, 1863

On returning to the beach, I found it thronged with native children, who were amusing themselves in the surf. This seems to be a favorite sport, not only with children, but men and women, and it is a novel and a beautiful sight to see them coming in on the top of a wave moving with a velocity that would overtake the swiftest of our racehorses.
Sometimes they will suddenly disappear, and thus remain until another roller comes along, and dashes them upon the beach.
They will not engage in the sport unless the surf is running high.
The surf-board which they use is made of some light wood, and is about six feet in length and twenty inches wide.
It appeared to me to be a very dangerous amusement, especially for children; but they seemed not to mind it. I continued to gaze on the scene until our sun-down boat shoved off to return to the ship.

Colvocoresses, George Musalas (1816-1872):
 Four years in the government exploring expedition.
 J. M. Fairchild & Co., New York, 1855.
Collection: Making of America Books
University of Michigan Library, 2006.

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