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jenkins : surf sport, 1850

John Jenkins : Sporting in the Surf, 1850.

Extract from
Jenkins, John S.:
Voyage of the U.S. exploring squadron, commanded by Captain Charles Wilkes, of the United States Navy, in 1838, 1839, 1840, 1841, and 1842 : together with explorations and discoveries made by Admiral d'Urville, Captain Ross, and other navigators and travellers, and an account of the expedition to the Dead Sea, under Lieutenant Lynch.
J.M. Alden, Auburn, New York, 1850, pages 369-370.

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Introduction.

Also see:
1845 Charles Wilkes : Narrative of the U.S. Expedition.
Extracts from Narrative of the U. S. Exploring Expedition during the Years 1833-1842, Whittaker, Philadelphia, 1845, Volumes IV and V.

Page 369

SPORTING IN THE SURF 1840 ...
Ancient manners and customs are nearly done away, and the natives are gradually accustoming themselves to the habits of the whites.
Some few of their amusements- the relics of former times- are still preserved.
They are an amphibious race, and being totally fearless of danger, will spend hours at a time, disporting themselves, in the most furious surf.
In bathing, each person is usually provided with a surf-board.
This is from six to nine feet long, and from twelve to eighteen inches wide.
It is from one to two inches thick in the centre, but quite thin at the edges.
Throwing himself flatwise upon this, the bather plunges forward from the shore on the top of the recoiling surf.
When he meets a roller he dives under it, and emerging on the other side, darts ahead once more with great rapidity, till he gains the outer line of breakers, from a quarter to half a mile distant from the shore.
Now watching the opportunity, he mounts one of the loftiest waves, balancing himself on his board on his hands and knees, or extended thereupon at full length.
With the speed of a maddened courser ho darts towards the shore, his shout of triumph ringing loud and clear, and distinctly heard above the roar of the surge, if he is so fortunate as to distance his companions.
Accidents sometimes occur, but ...

Page 370

... if the bather is dismounted from his board, or thrown from the wave on which he has placed himself, nothing daunted by the failure, he attempts to reach another, and though still unsuccessful, will persevere till he is obliged to return to the beach, at which he often arrives panting for breath and completely exhausted by his efforts.
This is esteemed glorious sport by all ages and classes, and both sexes engage in it indiscriminately, with nothing on but the maro.

Jenkins, John S. :
Voyage of the U.S. exploring squadron, commanded by Captain Charles Wilkes, of the United States Navy, in 1838, 1839, 1840, 1841, and 1842 : together with explorations and discoveries made by Admiral d'Urville, Captain Ross, and other navigators and travellers, and an account of the expedition to the Dead Sea, under Lieutenant Lynch.
J.M. Alden, Auburn, New York, 1850, pages 369-370.

Geoff Cater (2011) : John Jenkins : Sporting in the Surf, 1850.
http://www.surfresearch.com.au/1850_Jenkins_Surf_Sport.html